HB D8 vs. OD Z01B
06-07-2010, 10:37 AM
#16
Haven't seen so many false statements in one post... ever. If your going to use "too" as an adverb, make sure its not "to" when your criticizing something. D8 does not look cheap, thats your personal opinion. Your rear wing statement makes ZERO sense, I have raced three different companies and never saw a rear wing mount that was rigid enough to bend a rear tower! 
Radioboxes are tight, however I've had no problems, after all this is a race truck? Do you want a hotel sized radio box taking up chassis room? 
Once again, your wrong on the rear hubs.. no modifications need to be made and most of us replace them with CNC/Jet hubs anyways. LOL if the rear arms were too wide so that you had to shave them!?!? That is clearly a joke as they DO NOT do that.. do you really think HB would release a-arms that don't fit?? And once again! My tank has worked flawlessly, no flameouts/problems with my tank.. who runs stock airfilters? Its too large or you just don't know how to mount an airfilter?
This is the best comment you had... screws that are too long/heavy!!! Your right.. your post has officially become banished for having ZERO factual information. WOW
Coming from someone who runs the D8, you will enjoy the truck and I have made ZERO modifications beyond my personal setup. I have yet to break a part and its been 3 months of racing in hot AZ weather. The option parts are not expensive... unless your buying the king headz parts.. go with JET aftermarket and its not too pricey.
The OD is a very good buggy as well, I won't be spitting blibber blabber about that company when I don't know that much about it as Speedy2 clearly does. Maybe you need to learn to build a kit Speedy, as I have read just about the entire D8/D8T thread and didn't see one of your issues besides the radio box..
Radioboxes are tight, however I've had no problems, after all this is a race truck? Do you want a hotel sized radio box taking up chassis room? Once again, your wrong on the rear hubs.. no modifications need to be made and most of us replace them with CNC/Jet hubs anyways. LOL if the rear arms were too wide so that you had to shave them!?!? That is clearly a joke as they DO NOT do that.. do you really think HB would release a-arms that don't fit?? And once again! My tank has worked flawlessly, no flameouts/problems with my tank.. who runs stock airfilters? Its too large or you just don't know how to mount an airfilter?This is the best comment you had... screws that are too long/heavy!!! Your right.. your post has officially become banished for having ZERO factual information. WOW
Coming from someone who runs the D8, you will enjoy the truck and I have made ZERO modifications beyond my personal setup. I have yet to break a part and its been 3 months of racing in hot AZ weather. The option parts are not expensive... unless your buying the king headz parts.. go with JET aftermarket and its not too pricey.
The OD is a very good buggy as well, I won't be spitting blibber blabber about that company when I don't know that much about it as Speedy2 clearly does. Maybe you need to learn to build a kit Speedy, as I have read just about the entire D8/D8T thread and didn't see one of your issues besides the radio box..
+1 i couldn't agree any more...
and I have both buggies.. 
06-07-2010, 11:17 AM
#18
I had both to and stand by my point of view
I bend the rear tower after not even 1/2 tank
if you are saying the towers of the D8 had no problem
and the wingmount isn't stiff like hell, you are liying... the other stuff too, I drove the car
I just say things like they are...
OD has some problems too, the evo chassis is bending, while designed by BCE who use better alu
driveshafts look cheap and more fragile than the Z types
the new Sg will be better, or rather it is one of the best cars around now
the cnc parts are unbreakable, design is 100% racy and original
I bend the rear tower after not even 1/2 tank
if you are saying the towers of the D8 had no problem
and the wingmount isn't stiff like hell, you are liying... the other stuff too, I drove the car
I just say things like they are...
OD has some problems too, the evo chassis is bending, while designed by BCE who use better alu
driveshafts look cheap and more fragile than the Z types
the new Sg will be better, or rather it is one of the best cars around now
the cnc parts are unbreakable, design is 100% racy and original
Last edited by speedy2; 12-06-2014 at 02:11 AM.
06-07-2010, 01:26 PM
#20
I was running 5 km/h
running-in the car ! may I please
and tha car just fell flat on the wing after a jump at too low a speed.. you call me a lier or what ?
a tower should not bend unless really heavy stuff happens...
running-in the car ! may I please
and tha car just fell flat on the wing after a jump at too low a speed.. you call me a lier or what ?
a tower should not bend unless really heavy stuff happens...
Last edited by speedy2; 12-06-2014 at 02:12 AM.
06-07-2010, 01:38 PM
#21
Wake up on the wrong side of the bed?
So what you are saying, is that you were going 5km which is roughly 3mph and you flippin bent it? Well either way, if your wrecking at 5km/3mph then your horrible. I'm sorry but your bashing a company that you have no idea about, all of your statements/accusations are completely absurd. Please stop barfing advice as it is useless..
06-07-2010, 02:14 PM
#23
I love my d8's, but they have their share of little issues. Overall, I love the car though. It is stupid tough, stupid forgiving, easy to drive fast, cheap, and cheap to maintain.
These are the things that I tell new d8 owners so they don't run into them: The front plastic spindle (not cblock) is too weak and really needs the aluminum ones if you're on a tough track or it is cold. You have to keep on top of the CVDs -- check them, service them, buy rebuild barrel/pin kits ($6 for 2, so you can rebuild the CVDs on the entire buggy for $18). Running 101/102mm rear shock length requires you unscrew the rear eyes so far that they break easier unless you use the d8t shock eyes. You have to mind your droop with the droop screws in front or the drive shafts can pop out -- you can get longer front shafts if you want more droop, but 97mm front shocks and minding the droop screws to back up the shock length is really all you need to do. Also the rear hubs hit the rear arms if you extend the rear down with longer shock eyes/unscrewing them -- a simple snip of the plastic is all it takes. Also, I whole heartedly suggest changing out the fuel tube on the fuel tank clunk as the stock line will break or get turned around (stuck clunk) pretty easily. A lot of folks don't like the factory air filter as it can rub the brake linkage, but I have never had an issue with it hitting (it is close, and may touch, but it's still there after every run and never gets caught).
As far as maintance goes, keep on top of the CVD barrels/pins and replace worn out front/rear arms as they get sloppy (once a season?).
One thing I really like about the d8 is the shock design. I have yet to rebuild one. I have plenty of rebuild kits laying around, but I go to rebuild it and it's just still so silky smooth -- the shaft doesn't stick in the least and those orings have been in there for frick'n ever.
Another big plus on the d8 is how simple the design is. I'm a software engineer and I really like simple bullet proof designs -- that is what the d8 has: low screw count, keep it simple stupid, cheap replacement and upkeep parts, flexible plastic where it is okay to use it (see durable arms and rear hubs).
I have 3 buggies, one for parts, one I race nitro, and one I race in electric. I have no desire to run anything else. The few issues this car has that are easily over come definitely do not out weigh it's performance and cost value one two punch.
These are the things that I tell new d8 owners so they don't run into them: The front plastic spindle (not cblock) is too weak and really needs the aluminum ones if you're on a tough track or it is cold. You have to keep on top of the CVDs -- check them, service them, buy rebuild barrel/pin kits ($6 for 2, so you can rebuild the CVDs on the entire buggy for $18). Running 101/102mm rear shock length requires you unscrew the rear eyes so far that they break easier unless you use the d8t shock eyes. You have to mind your droop with the droop screws in front or the drive shafts can pop out -- you can get longer front shafts if you want more droop, but 97mm front shocks and minding the droop screws to back up the shock length is really all you need to do. Also the rear hubs hit the rear arms if you extend the rear down with longer shock eyes/unscrewing them -- a simple snip of the plastic is all it takes. Also, I whole heartedly suggest changing out the fuel tube on the fuel tank clunk as the stock line will break or get turned around (stuck clunk) pretty easily. A lot of folks don't like the factory air filter as it can rub the brake linkage, but I have never had an issue with it hitting (it is close, and may touch, but it's still there after every run and never gets caught).
As far as maintance goes, keep on top of the CVD barrels/pins and replace worn out front/rear arms as they get sloppy (once a season?).
One thing I really like about the d8 is the shock design. I have yet to rebuild one. I have plenty of rebuild kits laying around, but I go to rebuild it and it's just still so silky smooth -- the shaft doesn't stick in the least and those orings have been in there for frick'n ever.
Another big plus on the d8 is how simple the design is. I'm a software engineer and I really like simple bullet proof designs -- that is what the d8 has: low screw count, keep it simple stupid, cheap replacement and upkeep parts, flexible plastic where it is okay to use it (see durable arms and rear hubs).
I have 3 buggies, one for parts, one I race nitro, and one I race in electric. I have no desire to run anything else. The few issues this car has that are easily over come definitely do not out weigh it's performance and cost value one two punch.
06-07-2010, 02:22 PM
#25
the OD is coming out with a new buggy at the end of june. but the current one is a pain to setup unless high traction. the buggy works great if traction is there but if not you have to change everything. i have yet to change one thing with setup and it has worked everywhere.
06-07-2010, 02:23 PM
#26
06-07-2010, 02:26 PM
#27
Setup is such a breeze.
06-07-2010, 02:35 PM
#28
I was just running-in the buggy, and going to slow to be good
I went badly over a small jump and the car just fell over on the wing
and the tower bend 45°, I was able to bend it back using my dumb
the first badge ones bended when I sneezed on them...
I went badly over a small jump and the car just fell over on the wing
and the tower bend 45°, I was able to bend it back using my dumb
the first badge ones bended when I sneezed on them...
Last edited by speedy2; 10-06-2014 at 08:01 AM.
06-07-2010, 02:41 PM
#29
Thanks guys.
Razathorn -
How often do you find you need to service the CVD pins?
Seems like much of the other issues have to do with droop when running the stock length shocks, which should be fine for us as we don't run much droop anyways usually (our tracks are pretty smooth).
I have a Z01B Team I recently purchased. I haven't taken it to the track yet (just got everything done yesterday), but I'm looking forward to it. Hoping it does better than what's been said in this thread thus far.
Razathorn -
How often do you find you need to service the CVD pins?
Seems like much of the other issues have to do with droop when running the stock length shocks, which should be fine for us as we don't run much droop anyways usually (our tracks are pretty smooth).
I have a Z01B Team I recently purchased. I haven't taken it to the track yet (just got everything done yesterday), but I'm looking forward to it. Hoping it does better than what's been said in this thread thus far.
06-07-2010, 06:12 PM
#30
I've been following this thread silently, but I wanted to toss my experience into the fray with the OD. I've run it for a little over a year and 10 gallons and only had two issues. The first was the rear diff stripping out that was due to my improper shimming the first day out. I have not had to replace it since. The other happened to me twice where a 20ft jump into a pipe pulled the front block out of the diff. The resolution was longer screws going into the diff.
With all of that said, I've used the same basic setup on 3 different tracks. I never (well, once) rebuild the shocks. I just replaced the center bones and at $10 a pop they are inexpensive.
Get the one you want; you'll regret getting something different based on the crowd's opinion.
With all of that said, I've used the same basic setup on 3 different tracks. I never (well, once) rebuild the shocks. I just replaced the center bones and at $10 a pop they are inexpensive.
Get the one you want; you'll regret getting something different based on the crowd's opinion.