Casper

iTrader: (34)

nitro kid-- I will have to assume you are using your 19T in your buggy since you are using a 78 spur. I geared up my 19T (orion element) 3 teeth from what I was running my stock motors (orion core stock). I would start by gearing up three teeth from what you normally run a stock motor and try it there. 19T motors run full blank arms so they have a ton more torque then your normal stock motor (especially those new trinity stocks) I would start with 22-23/78 with a 19T. You should be pretty close.

Aaron-- I understand soldering batteries is a personal preference and I am OK with that but more convienent??? What could be easier then plugging and unplugging. You do not need a soldering iron hot. Also I would bet I get a better connection with my deans after 50 installs then you get with resoldering the same wire 50 times. Just a thought. I understand we are slitting hairs. The real benefit of direct solder is shorter/less wires and a slight reduction in weight due to no plug and less wire but neither of these things can be "felt" on the track by anyone. Just my two cents. The point is do what ever you want. As long as you use good quality plugs (like deans ultra) it will not really matter. Personal preference.

Wicked-Wayz

iTrader: (19)

I have the tamiya plugs(clear), I think that's what they are. I have thought about using deans. I think I will keep with plugs and just use deans. Thankz for the extra advice casper(nice website also).

Peace Aaron(W-W)

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Tamyia plugs are robbing power. The proof in that is run modifed and watch the plugs melt and fuse together! You may not notice the change but and experienced driver should be able to. You should also notice a small increase in run time.

Aaron Waldron

Casper - I use a Deans Plug on my gas truck reciever packs. Whenever I'm at an electric race, my soldering iron is always on and cranked full blast, so it's no hassle to solder a few wires here and there. Also, once the battery is soldered into the car, I can clip the alligator clips onto my battery bars and charge the battery with the body on, which means I only have to unclip and head to the track. It's just easier for me.

wicked-wayz - Casper is right. The Tamiya plugs leave room for improvement.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

Aaron,

does it mess up your ESC to charge batteries while its connected? I've seen some people do it but I'm always afraid to try it.

Wicked-Wayz

iTrader: (19)

I have noticed changes between the run times. I am not new at this, just never decided to change plugs. How hard is it to put the deans plugs on?

Peace Aaron(W-W)

Aaron Waldron

mafia - As long as the switch is turned off, everything will be ok.

wicked-wayz - With a hot soldering iron, some good 60/40 rosin core solder, a hair of wire cutters, and a steady hand, it's no problem at all.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Deans are pretty easy to install. For batteries I usually just spend the extra little bit and get the deans pigtail's. That way I just have to solder the wires to the battery. They are not hard.

Aaron-- I understand about the irons and the aligator clips and the whole thing. I know all the top guys do it. I have found it nice to not have to worry about positive and negative on charging my packs. It has been really nice to use plugs to help make this a more mindless task. Again my point is that it is preference. Both ways work equally well.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

Aaron,

I just finished working on my bearings. I must say....WOW. what a huge difference. I took all the bearings out of the tranny and carriers and packed them full of mothers polish....I mean, he!!a full. I didn't even wipe off the excess, I just put them back where they came from and put it all back together and hooked my dremmel up to the topshaft and ran it for about 10 minutes straight.

Before I did the dremmel, the entire drive train wouldn't spin. I actually had to physically turn the dog-bone....it felt like a ton of resistance. But I ran it on the dremmel and 10 minutes later even with all the excess and used polish residue crud still inside the tranny and carriers, it would actually spin very freely. I got a couple 2 seconds of spin just from spinning the dog-bone. No gear, no tires, just the shaft and crud and it spun. Then I cleaned the snap out of it, put it back together and holey freakin cow! I put the wheels and gear back on and spin the wheel....she spins like a ^*#@% !! I can't wait to see how it sounds and feels on the track.

Thanks for that tip!

beetlebz

pervert!!!

no seriously though, the car needs ALOT of work. i might just take my tranny apart tomorrow and hit the local associated dealer (xtreme RC in new milford, CT, great guy, good track) and replace all the bearings in the tranny, while i pickup my new spur gear lol

then im going to let the engine idle for a bit longer. i got a little rambunctious during break in today with my shiney new .12 CVRX.

i just couldnt resist the urge to try out the MIP 4 n 1 clutch. little baby rocks!

besides replacing the bearings, what else might i consider replacing in the tranny? what are high wear parts that affect the performance of the drive train?

beetlebz

is there any real benefit to running battery packs in a gas truck? ive always run regular AAs and ive never had a problem. i thought about getting a batt pack when i get my T4 (not for a little while yet) cuz ill have the charger, but is there any benefit to running batt packs other than not having to replace AAs all the time?

Aaron Waldron

mafia - Did you think I was lying to you?

beetle - The main thing is the convience of having a rechargeable pack..but also, the connections in a soldered-together pack are much more secure, and the weight is closer to what was used when the truck was being designed.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

No sa.....no sa massa waldron....I, I, I wouldsa neba doubted a man za yo statua.....I sorry for questionnin ya massa waldron...I, I, za sorry.

beetlebz

hey aaron, ive broken down the punch list on my GT as follows. some are repairs, some are just upgrades, id like you to help me prioritize them if you would...

1) replace rear bearings w/ 3/16ths, and install an mip CVD kit, new velocity rims, keep my losi ribs up front, but put a set of hole shots on the rear. cost $80

2) replace all bearings and carbide balls in the tranny, and any other worn out parts i can find. because its somewhat cheap for these bearings, id probably do a robinson steel spur n clutch bell. $20-50

3) replace the shock oil and springs all around. if i have the cash, a whole T4 threaded shock kit. if not, just the oil and springs. the shocks dont leak or anything, just need some TLC cost $30-50

4) new FT titanium turnbuckles, new ball cups, new balls, all the way around. $40

5) futaba 3010 steering servo, servo saver, and mip zero maintinence steering kit

i think reguardless of which i pick first, im goign to replace all the screws on the bottom of the chassis for the sake of uniformity, that and some of the heads are stripping.

so, given that you had between 50 and 100 bucks a shot to begin upgrades, how would you prioritize them and why?

thanks

Casper

iTrader: (34)

beetlebz-- For gas truck the benefit is not having to take the 4 screws out of the battery box (losi not a big a deal with a AE) about once a day to replace the batteries. In the long run you will save money since AA's can get expensive if you add up all the batteries used to run a full season. There is not performance gain I am aware of though.

As for the truck. I would get the titanium tie rods first and then work on the tranny noises. Thats my opinion but this is Aaron's thread!