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Old 03-26-2012, 04:42 PM
  #7681  
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Default +2 shock caps

fellas can you tell me what exactly the +2 shock caps are for? and also are you drilling the hole through those also?
thanks
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:17 PM
  #7682  
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Shock pistons.

Whats the size most people are running?

I took my spare buggy shocks and found that the previous owner did some mods to rear pistons. He filled in the holes on 1.4 and drilled them out to I think its 1.0 or 1.1 mm. He also did that cap mod where he drilled out the hole and did the bladder mod and put foam in cap. I refilled the shocks with 40 front and 37.5 rear both with grey springs. I will have to wait to get to track to see how this works.

My main buggy had 1.3 in front and rear.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M
Whats the size most people are running?
Try AGM0096-0812.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
Try AGM0096-0812.
The stock ones are 6 hole 1.3 non tapered this correct?
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:23 PM
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Default 10° caster blocks

fellas what will you gain or lose by using the 10° blocks ?
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:21 AM
  #7686  
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M
The stock ones are 6 hole 1.3 non tapered this correct?
The stock ones are between 1.3 and 1.4. i used a 1.3 feeler gauge and it was loose in the holes and the 1.4 was tight. i am running the modding cap with the foam behind it and hyper bladders with the blue csi gen2 pistons with 550 in the front and 450 in the rear. they worked pretty well outdoors. otherwise i run the 8hole 1.3 tapered down
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:24 AM
  #7687  
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
fellas can you tell me what exactly the +2 shock caps are for? and also are you drilling the hole through those also?
thanks
The +2 caps help elimnate the shock shaft from hittting the bladder if you are not running o-rings on shock shaft to limit up travel. from what i understand of them
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:17 AM
  #7688  
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I was looking forward to your feedback about the CSI pistons.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
fellas what will you gain or lose by using the 10° blocks ?
Less caster (10 degree blocks): more off-power turn-in, less camber when wheels are turned, suspension works 'easier' (efficient to subtle inputs), 'twitchier' feel
More caster (12 degree blocks): more on-power turn-out, increased straight line stability (car centers), more stable over rough
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:58 PM
  #7690  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
I was looking forward to your feedback about the CSI pistons.
They r a tuff one to dial in but once you do. they are really good
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:14 PM
  #7691  
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My buggy arrived today, and looks in mint condition!
Just about to pull it apart and do the diffs etc, and noticed that the front and rear arms have a noticeable amount of back and forth play on the hingepins. Is this normal, or is there a spacer perhaps missing there?
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:58 PM
  #7692  
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Originally Posted by thorns
My buggy arrived today, and looks in mint condition!
Just about to pull it apart and do the diffs etc, and noticed that the front and rear arms have a noticeable amount of back and forth play on the hingepins. Is this normal, or is there a spacer perhaps missing there?
There should be spacers. The kit comes with round "donut" style ones but I preferred to use the Mugen ones that clip on for easier adjustment.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:35 AM
  #7693  
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My second hand purchase better be in better nick than Paul's, Mike.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by PUNKEE
My second hand purchase better be in better nick than Paul's, Mike.
I'm sure you won't be disappointed - especially with the price you paid! And its already been fully rebuilt!
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:33 AM
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Leaky rear diff. I've freshened the diff oils several times and always have oil leaking from the left side of the rear diff, when looking from the rear. With this diff I always put a fresh seal in but it always leaks. Anyone using washers or different seals on their diffs?
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