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Old 02-20-2012, 06:19 PM
  #9601  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
finally got to do some testing this past weekend. Let me first say I have very limited time with the buggy so far. My first race with it in December didnt leave me feeling very good about the car. Well threw some help from some factory guys the car was better this weekend, but I still want it a little better. First the car goes threw the whoop section very nice, has very good corner speed on sweeping on throttle turns. Things I want it to do better, I want a little more rotation off and on power, not a ton more but just a little more. Also when the car gets out of shape sometimes it can be violent with little to no warning. The car is getting there but just a little more and it will be good. Right now I have Chad P's setup from hobby Hut on the car. One part I think that needs to be addessed, is the shock pins that hold the shock to the arms, me and another serpent driver broke 3 of them this past weekend, not on the track but putting them back in the arms just doing some wrenching. I wish we could come up with a good starting setup that works at most tracks kind of like Drakes setup on the losi buggy, his starting setup is what most losi guys use in my area.
My RAC setup has worked well most places last summer, If you want give that a shot, use 27.5-30wt rear shock oil though. I have tried Josh Talmage's setup on the serpent site and its really good also. Those are my 2 go to setups. Josh's setup is a little more user friendly because it uses more stock parts and you dont have to drill for the C hole on the rear arm.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:48 PM
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For the aluminum servo arms- what works for throttle and steering? Robitronic?

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
For the aluminum servo arms- what works for throttle and steering? Robitronic?

Thanks
The new serpent ones are pretty dialed!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:03 PM
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Link? I tried searching for them, but couldn't find anything.

Sent you an email by the way

Colorado needs the snake!
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:59 PM
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Tony, get a 3mm straight flute reamer and ream the holes where the shock pins go. A drill bit will work also, not sure of the number, probably a 32, if that doesn't help hit it with a 31. It makes the pins slide in an out like butter. Also round the sharp areas around the pin where the set screw indention is. This will keep the pins from digging into the plastic.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by chicky03
My RAC setup has worked well most places last summer, If you want give that a shot, use 27.5-30wt rear shock oil though. I have tried Josh Talmage's setup on the serpent site and its really good also. Those are my 2 go to setups. Josh's setup is a little more user friendly because it uses more stock parts and you dont have to drill for the C hole on the rear arm.
Ya, I didn't like the C hole much, I think it could be good with the truck rear shocks. The buggy rears in the C hole just limited down travel too much. Might need the Truck tower too incase the uptravel is messed up by the longer bodies. I haven't tried it myself but it seems like it could work. Anyone have any input?
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:37 AM
  #9607  
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
For the aluminum servo arms- what works for throttle and steering? Robitronic?

Thanks
The VP Pro one line up perfect for steering..Im using a 1" hanger 9 arm for thorttle. Gotta drill a 13/64th hole in the top hole of the throttle arm.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Arm-Hitec

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rvo-Horn-Hitec
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:09 AM
  #9608  
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Originally Posted by RCmayor
Ya, I didn't like the C hole much, I think it could be good with the truck rear shocks. The buggy rears in the C hole just limited down travel too much. Might need the Truck tower too incase the uptravel is messed up by the longer bodies. I haven't tried it myself but it seems like it could work. Anyone have any input?
the c hole just need the stock shock end unscrewed 2 turns and it gives you the droop you need.

also i have yet to try the truggy rear tower or shocks because i dont feel the need to even try this.

my cars always been good in the b hole with the shocks in 3-5 shock postion on the tower
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
Link? I tried searching for them, but couldn't find anything.

Sent you an email by the way

Colorado needs the snake!
I didn't get if, where did you send it, [email protected]

Originally Posted by RCmayor
Ya, I didn't like the C hole much, I think it could be good with the truck rear shocks. The buggy rears in the C hole just limited down travel too much. Might need the Truck tower too incase the uptravel is messed up by the longer bodies. I haven't tried it myself but it seems like it could work. Anyone have any input?
Like chops said you just need to unscrew the shock end. I make the shock 118mm long. The Truggy tower and shocks are not needed for this.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:33 AM
  #9610  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
One part I think that needs to be addessed, is the shock pins that hold the shock to the arms, me and another serpent driver broke 3 of them this past weekend, not on the track but putting them back in the arms just doing some wrenching.
I just do what the others say. Ream the mud guard a little. I also use cheap 3x22mm Cap Screws instead. $2 vs $25. If you use screws you can use a ball wrench if you get one in that doesn't want to come out. You just need to be careful if you use the screws when you tighten down the set screw, it's easier to strip that hole out.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by chicky03
I didn't get if, where did you send it, [email protected]
Sent you a pm and resent the email. Hopefully it makes it through this time.

Thanks
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
Link? I tried searching for them, but couldn't find anything.

Sent you an email by the way

Colorado needs the snake!
http://www.serpent.com/product/servo%20lever

got your email
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:41 AM
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The servo arms look good!
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:55 AM
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Ya Pork, mine has always been fine in the B. I don't like unscrewing shock ends, it makes the shaft break easier. I would try the C again if anyone around me ran a truck and I could try out the parts to see how they fit.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:55 PM
  #9615  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
finally got to do some testing this past weekend. Let me first say I have very limited time with the buggy so far. My first race with it in December didnt leave me feeling very good about the car. Well threw some help from some factory guys the car was better this weekend, but I still want it a little better. First the car goes threw the whoop section very nice, has very good corner speed on sweeping on throttle turns. Things I want it to do better, I want a little more rotation off and on power, not a ton more but just a little more. Also when the car gets out of shape sometimes it can be violent with little to no warning. The car is getting there but just a little more and it will be good. Right now I have Chad P's setup from hobby Hut on the car. One part I think that needs to be addessed, is the shock pins that hold the shock to the arms, me and another serpent driver broke 3 of them this past weekend, not on the track but putting them back in the arms just doing some wrenching. I wish we could come up with a good starting setup that works at most tracks kind of like Drakes setup on the losi buggy, his starting setup is what most losi guys use in my area.
I have broken a few shock pins as well and was very disappointed when I saw the price for replacements. What we found was that if you slowly tighten the set screw just until it touches then back it off a half turn or so there is no more damage to the pin. As for getting them in and out more easily I used a dremel sander to round the tip a little and then chucked the pin in a drill by the button head. This is a little tough to get straight but not too bad. Then spin the pin and use a scotch pad to polish the part that goes into the arm. Once I did this the pin almost drops in and you don't have to worry about making the hole in the arm too sloppy.
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