porkchop

ok alot guys know me as he ran it all he will switch soon
but this one the cars that get the two thumbs up and i am not goiung any where

i have had some learn expircance with this car along the way.

and there been many a weekend i said it broke in a bad crash

and yet to say all i have broke is a wing mount. and a cabon tower i should have glued.

so i going to stay you can buy a grand in parts like i got and well i only use them when stuff wears.

so in 5 gallons i replace a wing mount a tower and a set of arms just be4 my last race becuse they were a lil tweeked.

zJatoRad

iTrader: (38)

You probably remember this one from RCFiles



fits perfectly fine with the body on, have been running this style air filter on 3 different brands, it's from the Hyper 8.5 which is very similar to the RC8.

And to who comments, yes I already cut the small transponder plastic piece lol =D

ROSCOE

iTrader: (130)

Guys, ran the serpent last weekend with a box stock components but changed up fluids, toe and link location etc. and all I can say is wow. It accelerates so hard! Ran a stock JL backup engine with jp-2 in it (no slouch) and was so impressed. I can wheel it effortlessly and never once felt loose. I was also running my new hara and sad to say you all know what will happen with that. My little brother is getting my new hara and d8t and my durango has been sold to make room for mister cobra T. My question for now is parts related. I see this unit is very durable box stock, would I be best to A- buy a spare kit to feed parts to my cobra buggy and truggy or B- buy aluminium upgrades for them and buy arms, diff components, turnbuckles, ball ends and so on? Reason I ask is because there will most likely be few to no serpents in my area so I want to be stocked and the parts add up quickly for these. ALSO does anyone know if the diff gearing for the bug and trug will be the same?

Chad Phillips

i think so as of now

Goomba_7

iTrader: (5)

I know most will probably tell you to get the upgrades so you can tune your car in to the track. I will tell you to get the extra kit so that you can rest easy that if and when you make a stupid mistake; ie forget to locktite screws or strip a screw end, you will have an extra. Just a piece of mine. I had the same dilemma. and the fact the thing is a tank allows you to save money for the upgrades.

Goomba_7

iTrader: (5)

it's approximately 61.65mm from center to center

mc_chofo

thank you very much goomba_7, i can now try it, anyway i already have plans to get it from chad, but in the mean while i can build it to try it.

thank you

ROSCOE

iTrader: (130)

Yeah I was thinking similar. I will get springs and some of the other tuning aids. If I build both with all the durable aluminum parts (hubs, knuckles and towers) and carry spare arms, pins, diffs, drive line, shock parts and so on I'm basically at the price of a kit or more I would assume for each. These are a bit more pricey to maintain over my HB but look like there will be less wear then those in the end.

Im thinking I will buy a spare buggy for parts and then buy the must haves out side of the buggy kit for the truggy (arms, drive line, linkages and shock parts). Then work into the upgrade aluminum parts.

Guess I need to do some more math to figure the best cost effective route.

Honu

iTrader: (22)

Get spare bearings, they seem to need maintenance often.

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

can some give some pointer on reaction and different between using a 6 hole piston to the 10 hole conical.

Orginal setup: 6 holes piston all the way around: Front 40wt blue spring / Rear 37.5wt , Losi Black (3.4).

Now I'm running 10 hole conical all the way around- front 35wt, blue spring / rear 35wt, Durango black (2.96?)

Would this setup be comparable to original and what can I aspect. I was having issues with my chassis slapping BIG TIME.

heavyjeffd

iTrader: (15)

Bearings are one of the most overlooked things by RC enthusiasts. They are a cheap way to make sure your drivetrain stays smooth.

Just buy a few tubes of the most common bearings that take a beating from Avid (www.avidrc.com) and you will be set. They also offer a Serpent-specific wheel bearing (with the seal on the flange side).

porkchop

10 hole front numb the car way to much imo and you lose a ton of steering.
10 hole rear make the car slide more.

skydark_34

finally got my S811 Evo Buggy.like this car's design so much..have been dreaming over it for the past 8 months since i first saw this car at our local race track....took me a week to build..huh..this is a tough build with these plastic parts..lucky i got the 3mm and 4mm tap which is handy..but for the upper arms turnbuckle....tried out the stock setting which sucks..still need to get it set up properly..any recommendations..coz my cobra got a lot of over steering going into corners as i apply the throttle..

BrakeTurnAccelerate

iTrader: (40)

Car looks good.

It seems like alot of people on this thread are using Chad's setup or a variation there-of. I just got a load of parts in tio put this setup on mine, but I'll be using 40/30 shock oils since it's warm here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8868121-post6841.html

Chad Phillips

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=5235