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Old 06-29-2009, 06:53 PM
  #31  
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Simple green , Hot water , WD-40, air compressor is the ticket. I remove the radio tray and engine. knock any heavy mud off , drop it in the kitchen sink , and soak it with simple green let it sit about 5 minutes. You can use whatever kind of cleaner you have but I like simple green. Next run the hot water as hot as you can stand it . Then use the spayer to rinse it off if you have one ,don't be scared go to town. I then set the car upside down on a towel for 5 to 10 minutes you'll find that most of the hot water evaporates quickly but you still want to go to the compressor blow any left over water off. Now soak it pretty good with WD-40 paying particular attention to bearings and drive shafts and blow it off again and then use a towel . clean up the radio tray with a brush and rag with simple green and put it back together. I usualy do this the day after race day unless I was dumb and raced in the mud then I do it the same day. I have been doing this for two years and it is the best system I have found no rust to worry about and bearings last. I have friends that actually put them in the dish washer and another who takes his to the local spray wash. My method takes about an hour but my car looks new. I also brush and blow the car off after every race or tank of fuel this helps to find any potential problems.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:59 PM
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question on simple green! In pure form does it contain water? Denatured alchohol contains water? I guess the real idea here is it dries faster. I use to do this just pure simple green not water but i spend to much time cleaning. So now i also use preassure washer to get all the dirt plus simple green then WD40 then I am done.

Good Idea on the heat gun. Ill try that. Is it true also that WD40 weakens the plastic parts?
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by oggietiu
hahaha! I think most of us here are like that. Everytime I go to a hobby shop to get some small parts or something I end up spending more even though i dont really need the parts I got. Its just compulsion! Same as buying online. I need a 5$ part ended up buying 200$ worth. My reasoning for my wifey, hey freight cost is expensive so i need to maximize my purchase. I myself dont really get it but I still do it. Again compulsion.

I know what you mean. Whether you need it or not you always want to buy more parts and upgrades. Only thing that holds me back is the fact that as a 17 year old I have a pretty limited budget for an expensive hobby haha. Yet sill I find myself saying damn the expense, I want that so I'm buying it
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:11 PM
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Its a little bit harder when I was about your age cuase I either skimp out on eating or buying stuff for myself so i can save my allowance for RC. But those days I really need the part to keep my car running. No Spare no nothing.

Now I have ton of spares and parts that I really dont need (Its just cool to have it) but end up buying thesame parts when it breaks cause i really dont know where i put it in the first place. In the end when you decide to sell your rig you end up including these parts for free or a mere fraction of your purchase cost.






Originally Posted by Frozenshades
I know what you mean. Whether you need it or not you always want to buy more parts and upgrades. Only thing that holds me back is the fact that as a 17 year old I have a pretty limited budget for an expensive hobby haha. Yet sill I find myself saying damn the expense, I want that so I'm buying it
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:00 PM
  #35  
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tear the car down and inspect all bearings,screws,diffs,shocks,arms,hubs etc...etc...etc...1 small problem can lead to many more if proper inspection hasnt taken place. clean all plastic with simple geen&water. re lube all bearings after every 1 hour use. clean and refill all diffs after every 1.5 gallons. and inspect shocks after every race and refill all shocks after every gallon. cook pipes in 100% green antifreeze after every gallon. use water only on plastic parts. if you must on metal areas use simple green and alcohol then compressed air. there is a lot to go into cleaning a race buggy. good cleaning and inspections helps finish races
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:25 PM
  #36  
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Remove electronics, garden hose, replace electronics. Done.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by vti-chris
Don't you get rust on the hing pins this way?
Water will get in there but WD40 might not and this will rust the pins in a day!
if water can get in there, then wd-40 will definately get in there. its a penetrating lubricant that wants to displace water.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:06 AM
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I use a spray that I got from Lowe's made by DuPont it's called Teflon Silicone Lubricant. I spray the chassis before every race and when the races are over the dirt and grime just sprays off and it looks nearly new. Some small areas may need a little toothbrush scrubbing but I always spray my chassis after every cleaning with this stuff and it works perfectly. It's not greasy at all, and the smell only last for a minute or two after you first spray it on, so the whole house doesn't smell like WD-40 or some other penetrating oil. It's the best thing I've found so far to keep dirt off my chassis and electronics.

I don't remove the motor, but I am running a brushless RC8T so it's a little different.
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:59 PM
  #39  
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I just wipe down the heavy firt then get windex and spray on paper towel wipe down the AArms and springs then spray windex to everything blow off with compressor then wd40 and blow off again...works wonders . I dont spray ayything to the chassis parts motor etc..... just the frontand rear.....try it
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cheeseball01
This is EXACTLY what I do too. Works like a champ. Car comes out looking like brand new ( plus a few scatches of course). Make sure you get the WD40 on right away though so the water doesn't ruin anything.
+2...

Lutz taught me a trick w/ the WD-40. Instead of spraying it on the bearings directly, or where ever you are applying, spray the WD-40 onto a toothbrush and then brush where you need it. Keeps the WD-40 from going all over the place.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:34 AM
  #41  
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take out engine and electronics
soak with any cleaner
blow it off with water
let it dry bout 1 hour (flip over towel)
make 50:50 of simple green and castor oil
spray it through your car.

its cheaper than a can of wd 40
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:58 AM
  #42  
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For dust and other normal dirt I spray the car with lemon pledge. Let it set for about ten seconds and simply wipe it off. All plastic parts look brand new and shiny. For everything else I just hit it with the air compressor.

For mud, I remove the radio tray and engine. Garden Hose or shower, then air compressor, then WD-40 and finally pledge to make it shiny.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:20 PM
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Truggy Love is best... Works on buggys too
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:01 PM
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remove engine elecs

simple grn mixed with denatured

garden hose

air compressor

hand clean elecs then air compressor

hand clean engine and air compressor

clean all bearings without uninstalling (replace if old, but I dry the best I can with air compressor and then reoil

I use armor all sometimes after a littel bit of wd40 to recondition aged look of plastics
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:52 AM
  #45  
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o'donnell speed wash is good for clean nitro cars
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