ROFLMFAO.

ONE MORE BUILD TIP. When attaching the center rear drive shaft to the pinion gear. Don't push the drive shaft on so as to clamp the pinion bearings between the coupler and ring gear. If it's too tight it can cause the pinion bearings to fail.

There is a very small shoulder on the rear of that coupler. It should be against the bearing in the diff case but not squeezing against it.

Just push the pinion gear then push the rear drive shaft set the grub screw. When you start shimming place three shims on left one on the right or until there's no movement from side to side it should be a tad hard when you place the diff in the case. start from left to right (looking at the ass) take from the left add to the right until you feel the high spots or when its notchy. Use mobile synthetic grease place cover make sure you don't over tighten bottom and top screws. When you spin the rear you should feel a light notch it will wear. I followed this simple method change the rear setup every year just to change everything was still good. Also use the alu rear diff inserts for me helped my diff never clicked

Hey everyone, thanks for all the input on my diff rebuilding post. Here's what I did. Just so everyone knows, because I read it in a few posts, is that you need to replace the entire diff case, due to possible warping, which I have done. I also replaced the old shims with new shims, and of course the worn ring and pinion gears. I went by the book stock shim setup, which was (3) .10 mm shims on the right, and (1) .25mm and (2) .10 mm shims on left. I reassembled everything, and all seems ok. There is some notchiness in turning the two out drives in the same direction, but notchiness stops after a couple revolutions. Then stop turning, and start again, and notchiness is there again for a revolution or two. So there is definately some notchiness. It the diff was kinda hard to get in the case, I chalked this up to the correct shimming. What do you guys think from what I have told you here? Thanks again, everyone.

Chad

is here its here lol

is the gen 3 radio tray a must have?

That I don't know about. I have not used it. Haven't heard much on here about it. Very few people posted results. If it made a huge difference more people would've said something. I saw the Gen III as more complex, so I stayed away.

On the other hand Losi put it out for a reason, so that call is up to you. A few claimed more weight up front for more steering.

Where is everyone mounting their transponders with the Gen III tray?

inside radio box

If you don't have enough room in the RX box get a servo lead extention and our it in the battery box.

I was looking forward to going to my local track in Saugus today - talked crap to my friend all week - but they are closed to work on it until Tuesday. Can someone please help with track withdrawals? LOL

Someone told me when I started going to the track that bashing would not be as fun anymore and they were right...I am hooked on track time...so much more fun than bashing imo...

size tools i need?

Hex drivers: .50", 1/16, 2.0mm, 3/32. The 2mm works for all the 5/64. But the 5/64 won't work on the clutch bell screw. So skip the 5/64 and just use the 2mm.

Nut drivers: 3/16, 1/4, 11/32, 3/8

For convenience I can suggest a small set of three pliers like this, http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...7&blockType=L7

Also a hobby knife like an Exacto knife with #11 blades. Also a pair of curved lexan scissors cause they are just nice to have. Then a body reamer too.

I think that will keep you going for quite a while. Over time you'll acquire small screw drivers, and hole reamers, and other pliers for specific tasks.

thanks time to save up for new tools like losi us set

Yes. It is a highly popular hop up. I like the throttle response. It's a longer pull which gives you better throttle control. It also moves the servos away from he abuse of the engine.

With all the money I spend on this thing, getting a $40 part to help extend the life of my $200+ servos was a no brainer.