the highest gearing your going to be able to effectively run is a 15th bell.n ( stock a 13 or 14 ? ) either way 2 teeth maximum above stock.....even then you will pushing the clutches past their breaking point and experiencing plenty of slip and heat.......... A 20th bell would make the machine a slug that would melt the clutches and likely hardly able to get out of its own way as it will be so overloaded.........

I'm running 50/16 currently, 20t would really be for TS runs. I think I could effectively run 19t and still be fast out the gate. Worth a try, no big deal if it ain't.

BUT if they don't make them, what can I do but go for the maximum available.

So 47(I'm pretty sure I saw) & 17t (I also believe I saw) are my maximum obtainable gears for speed?

IS higher than 16 & lower than a 48 available?

I believe you can buy 20,21,22 tooth bells from Axial ( or used to be able to ).......

just for reference on our track you would find a 15th bell to be ideal...any higher and you would struggle on the infield........The higher you gear the engine the less trigger feel and throttle modulation you have... Anything more then a 15 you would feel a initial clutch bog for a instant then the engine would unload and bust loose as it ramps up...can feel very unpredictable as the power isn't on trigger when you need it to be.....I run a modified OS 25 up 1 tooth and a modified Nova 28 up 2 teeth....On 2 teeth up the Mod Nova runs in the 50-55 MPH range with ridiculous acceleration and torque....... On a 19 tooth bell it would be geared for 75 MPH but would struggle badly to carry the load, the clutches would likely melt out very quickly as well...........Back in the day I used to run the big 30 engines as well, and I have a coffee can full of burnt clutches to show for it.....even if the engine could manage to pull taller gearing, the current clutch setups just can't handle the load........Now doing wide open runs you probably will have more luck, but the stop and go on the track will just kill the clutch........Especially compounded if you run on traction......... We used to run a crazy powerful STS 30 in a Mugen 5T...it was a hoot...but even up 2 teeth we were smoking thru clutches faster then we could install them........

Run the smallest carb reducer you can for mileage. and gearing like maximo said is ideal clutches aint cheap when ya fly through them, wheel spin thats what they make the trigger move for lol with that big engine you will learn throttle control fast. the power is a blast but wayy to much for the track.

LOL...I remember running the Big 30 engines.....Skip to halfway thru and we are running a very stout 30 in a Truggy...first half is a Savage with same engine....

http://video.google.ca/videoplay?doc...97284940363929

And here is that very Same engine in a CRT Truggy at the Canadian Winter Nationals, piloted by Jammin Jay Halsey himself..running HPI purple LOL...this 30 got down pretty good for a big engine....

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...71958072&hl=en

I love it when somebody reminds me of something I already know but absentmindedly overlooked. I should of popped in the 7.5mm insert from the get-go. I also run a ZR30X in my Savage and run a 9mm in her just absentmindedly overlooked running the 7.5mm in the 8ight-T.

Thanks, that will certainly help fuel consumption and make low end power easier to deliver.

Shhhhh why you have to let the cat out of the bag

I got much practice to get done. I think the most valuable asset would be driving skill & I'm going to have to practice to build that up. I got skillz on the Trigger and pick up this ish fast, but my RS4 & Savy's & different animals to a Truggy.


I do find different engines like different gearing, I have 4 spare ready-to-go clutches / Flywheels and don't mind throwing cash at trying stuff out. So I will get as many cb's higher than the 16 I'm running now that I can find, and see what I come up with in the end. 16 has not shown any issues, I will move up a tooth continuously until I go to far, then move one down I will let the Trucks performance, & throttle control dictate my choice.

If you don't mind throwing down cash to try stuff out, maybe get a good .21 and call it a day.

I will eventually, but I'm having fun with the ZR30X, what's wrong with that?

Popped in the 7.5mm venturi insert right away so I don't forget.

Are there better clutch shoe/flywheels than the Losi 8ight-T's? What kind of options are available, Springs, shoes, & flywheel?

You're clearly trying to compensate for an engine that is not optimal for truggy racing. Given the affordability of good .21s, I don't see the point of wasting money on clutches etc. The headaches don't seem worth it to me.

I got Motrin so I'll be good.

This is the part of the hobby that I enjoy most, you should see all the stuff I've gone through on my Savages.

I'll be honest, the more people try to steer me away from the ZR30X the more I'm inspired to make it work

Since I chimed in on this I have been giving it some thought and am wondering if the real source of excessive slop is the inside diameter of the hex expanding relative to the axle. If so, I think a better grade of aluminum would make a big difference. I looked at mine and the fit of the axle to the bearings does not seem to be contributing and the outside of the hexes seem fine too. That all being said, while my experience with spacers has been good it does seem to me to be the best way to improve the fit between the hex and the axle. I guess my question is whether that is why the slop exists or is some other part of the hex giving way?

Thank you for the tips.

And, Thank you GT4Point6 for the tip on keeping my posts correct. I must have been inadvertently deleting a quotation mark. But, at least we all now know a trick for the unwary...

My local hobbyshop took care of my 10deg spindle carrier problem and got me 2 10deg instead of one 10 and one 12. My question is for those of you tha have them:

Did you use the little spacers that were in the stock plastic carriers, or do you not use them?

tia

I tried at first but the spacers for the plastic spindles are too long for my aluminum spindles so I did not use them and have had no issues.

That's why i 'm asking. Thanks!

Just be aware . Eventually that little tab that is keeping the screw from moving to the other hole will wear and your screw will start moving .just something to keep an eye on .