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Old 03-05-2009 | 08:10 AM
  #1291  
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i didnt like the body at first but it grows on you heres mine
Attached Thumbnails 8T 2.0-painted-bodies-014.jpg  
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Old 03-05-2009 | 09:12 AM
  #1292  
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.5's out on the rear adj block for 3.5
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Old 03-05-2009 | 01:07 PM
  #1293  
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how do you measure toe??? i looked for a gauge but couldnt find it, i have a camber, and ride height gauge as well as digital calipers but i dont think any of this will help
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Old 03-05-2009 | 01:16 PM
  #1294  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
how do you measure toe??? i looked for a gauge but couldnt find it, i have a camber, and ride height gauge as well as digital calipers but i dont think any of this will help
roll your car/truck against a wall and measure the toe with your camber gauge.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 01:22 PM
  #1295  
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Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
roll your car/truck against a wall and measure the toe with your camber gauge.
im very sorry but i dont under stand, maybe its because ive been up for 39.5 hours and have to work in 30 min
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Old 03-05-2009 | 01:54 PM
  #1296  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
im very sorry but i dont under stand, maybe its because ive been up for 39.5 hours and have to work in 30 min
Why is that hard to understand?.Think of your camber as a vertical adjustment and think of your toe as a horizontal adjustment, instead of using a table to adjust camber you use the wall for the toe. Does that compute??
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Old 03-05-2009 | 02:02 PM
  #1297  
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Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
roll your car/truck against a wall and measure the toe with your camber gauge.

Just bought me some of those rip off Hudy systems

great tip for all of the ones that did not buy one of those rip off kitts yet.
Thanks but to late
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Old 03-05-2009 | 02:05 PM
  #1298  
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you could also just stand the car up on your set up board and do the same thing!
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Old 03-05-2009 | 02:13 PM
  #1299  
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Using the wall method doesn't give you exact number to go by, and with most cars there is so much slop , it's hard to get a solid number anyways, but at least you can visually see how much toe there is.

Generally, I set my cars at 0 degrees using the wall/eyeball method , and make subtle changes from there.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 03:33 PM
  #1300  
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Just wonderin...would it be easier/better to just buy all the parts needed to convert my 1.0T to a 2.0T or just buy the 2.0T rite off. let me know. thnx
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Old 03-05-2009 | 03:40 PM
  #1301  
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Originally Posted by losi 8t
Just wonderin...would it be easier/better to just buy all the parts needed to convert my 1.0T to a 2.0T or just buy the 2.0T rite off. let me know. thnx
Way better to just buy a 2.0. Only thing that is the same is the front bulkhead and diffs. Plus a few small things here and there but majority of the parts are all new.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 03:42 PM
  #1302  
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Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
Way better to just buy a 2.0. Only thing that is the same is the front bulkhead and diffs. Plus a few small things here and there but majority of the parts are all new.
Alrighty then. was just wonderin. thnx! wat should i look for in the kit as far as needing to look after/replace or something? weakness i guess.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 04:28 PM
  #1303  
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Ok my lightweight parts have come back from the anodisers and are packaged and ready to go.
I have a few pictures of the finished product and weights.

8T 2.0-cvds-axles.jpg8T 2.0-cvds-axles-2.jpg8T 2.0-axle-weight.jpg8T 2.0-cvd-weight.jpg

I have reduced the prices of this first batch to;
Lightweight Losi 8ight Buggy Axles (4) $49AUD which is around $30USD
Lightweight Losi 8ight CVD Couplers and Pin Retainers (2) $26AUD which is around $15USD
Shipping from Australia to America is $12AUD
These prices are cheaper than the stock losi items

Anyone interested send me a PM. I have limited stock for sale in this first batch. so if your intersted get in quick.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 04:40 PM
  #1304  
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Yeah,I just picked up my 8T 2.0 anything I should checkout other than the shockends and servosaver and check tightness of screws?
Thanks,Rick








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Last edited by RcRick; 03-05-2009 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 03-05-2009 | 05:26 PM
  #1305  
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Take the nut off the camberlink screws on the towers and put a drop of locktite on them. Also get 2 longer screws for the shock tower to wing mount, the 2 upper screws that go into nuts. Other than that just go over all the screws make sure there tight. Go over the whole setup making sure the droop is right, check outer rear hingepins to make sure they weren't over tightened and also the sway bar mounts, make sure those weren't set to tight.

Put your wheels and tires on, set ride height and then set camber and your good to go.

I installed the alumium upper servo saver piece for the 2.0 right away and when I set the spring tension I set it 1/2 a turn looser than what the book suggests and haven't have any issues in that department
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