Originally Posted by shady3031 (Post 7368444)

I use JConcepts closed cell foam for a buggy. Needs to be 9mm tall x 12mm across, to cut the foam I use my dremel and take the sanding drum, slide the sanding part where it hangs off the rubber drum and it will cut the foam perfectly.
The new JC closed cell buggy foams work great for this application. 2 foams for 6.99 and you can get 36 foam discs enough to do your shocks 9 times.
I have been running the modded caps for well over a year, and have tried many many many different foams and orings , and these seem to be the best by far.

Hope this helps, if you have any more questions concerning the modded shock pm alan burton on the speed shop thread as he has done hundreds of sets of shocks.

Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 7394290)

I saw these pictures earlier. It's good that you posted them again.

From the first picture (spindles), it sure looks like the black anodized spindle is at a greatly increased angle and that in itself would change the camber significantly, but I guess once mounted on the proper carrier, they must change back to level somewhat. Even though they're level once mounted there must be a dynamic between the two parts that gives you the steering effect you explained earlier.

Thanks for your help. I believe it is now clear to me. Damn is it getting scientific up in here or is just me?:lol:

Originally Posted by air8 (Post 7394854)

Caster. The spindles change the amount of caster.

The Camber is adjusted with the turnbuckles front and rear.

Originally Posted by aznitronut (Post 7393208)

Hey Nick, when using the 48 spur, it still gives you enough bottom? what clutch bell are you using? 13 or 14? I can see why you used it at The Nitro Challenge, with the large track.

Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7393781)

I tried a 14 cb at the nitro challenge and I did not likenit even though that was the bigest track j have ever driven on. It did not have a very big straight. Lost of jumps and elevation change and that deep deep washboard section. My buggy would practically disappear. What a track. I can't wait until oct if they have the nitrocrossthere again. I wanna go :D

Originally Posted by ding_nz (Post 7393427)

Yeh I know it's bizzare :weird:

I'm a bit reluctant to give the motor brand incase it's used against it but in the interests of clearing this up: They were both GO tech 7 ports.

The first one (generation 5.5) was in my buggy for somewhere around 3 months then into the truggy. I put a set of answer ceramics in it not long before it let go. On this one the inner race fractured and bits of it went through the motor.

The 2nd was a GX still on standard bearings no big bits came off this time but it has marked the piston abit.

The 2nd was in the truggy as long as the 3port GX in my 8 version 1 buggy - this motor is sweet as.

Originally Posted by travis4380 (Post 7395651)

Has anyone tried running the front camber links in the b hole instead of the a hole on the carriers? Just curious what it does exactly.

Originally Posted by Hate2Looz (Post 7398590)

Well, I finally have a truggy on the way. Perfect match for my 2.0 buggy. Can't wait. Unfortunantly, the only engine I have at the moment is my tuned GRP .21 that I ran in my buggy most all season. It's gonna be a little soft down low but hoping to maybe fix that with gearing and clutching. I always ran stock gearing in the buggy (13/48?) with all carbon shoes and black springs. I liked that setup best. Any suggestions for the truggy?

Originally Posted by teamlosi906 (Post 7398748)

anybody running thicker diff oil for the center diff, with a 28 motor thanks

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 7398698)

13/50 gearing. All aluminum clutch with 2 gold and 2 green springs or 4 gold springs. An 053 pipe would help get a bit more bottom out of it than the GRP 2053. Should be a good starting point.:nod:

Originally Posted by tc5 man (Post 7398901)

im curious how do the green/gold setup, on a all alum setup work does it give you a little less punch, im running all gold on the alum clutch setup.

Originally Posted by bigjayjay1 (Post 7384070)

Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
I have the provided 45 spur installed today I'm going to swap front clips from my other truggy theirs something wrong but its giving me some hard rubs three nights and counting. Nick will the front kick up and anti-squat effect angle for the drive shaft? its something simple I dont think its mechanical went through everything.
Yesterday changed center diff case / bearing swapped front clip from my Nitro 8T 2.0 still have resistance when turning the wheels. I also changed out the front brake bracket for the center diff still not luck.

Many Hours of wrenching problem still present anymore suggestions??I run the SD in all my kits when I rotate the wheels the drive train spins very freely with a normal Center diff 10K will it add resistance will it be different??


Any other ideas I'm stumped maybe its requires run-in time maybe Im just very anal on how my shit flows but since theirs no brake pads I would think the drive train should spin even more than a nitro.