With the factory hubs, 1st the outer bearing fails, so you get the wobbles....
If you are in a main and carry on racing then the inner bearing dies soon after a spits the whole wheel and axle out and your left on the lower arm time to quit

I was fitting bearings before any main, and still had failures the next weekend of qualifying!
Got some modded plastic hubs 3 months + ago and still on same set of 16mm bearings

Suprised losi haven't released an option rear hub to 'cover up' the error

Where do i get the modded plastic hubs?

We had a guy here in the UK get a load re machined.

I've heard 'j-dubs' named mentioned, I guess in the US?
Kingheadz do alloy hubs (possibly larger bearings)?

I also had the fronts fail on me last time out, but the bearings were the originals (6months old!).

Tried Casey's setup, I don't think it's for me, but I didn't get a good chance to try it out.....

I had my rear right drive shaft pop out of the output cup. The driveshaft end had always been very close to the outside of the cup (on the rear, front is well engaged). It didn't make sense to be the mod as I was still running the same camber. Put the car on the track & it happened again. Found under full arm lift (compressed shock) the pin, when at the bottom of the rotation was basically out. Change back to my original setup & it happened again. The left side JUST stays in, but right.... the diff is correctly shimmed. Now the slot openings are slightly damaged so it comes out fairly easily. Ending up finishing the day with 19mm (that's 3/4" for you guys using the outdated measuring system...) of fuel tube on the shock shaft to control the maximum movement.

Is this a know problem, or is it just me? Another guy at our track, has had the same problem with the front, but not rear. My front shafts are quite well engaged & couldn't pop out.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Pete.

If you lost all the ball's the cage wouldn't be there and the inner and outer rings have Nothing holding them together...therefor causing a DNF...i dont see why you think it cant happen.

i dunno but i was running one day for around 20 mins or so and i came in and noticed a little more slop, it was race against race but it really wasnt noticable on the track, the inner bearing was still intact tho, but if it wer to fail i think it would of, maybe if both fail then you will have a prob, but its usually just the outter

Hi guys,

i just wanted to know your opinion about something, i never raced truggies, and this season, we are starting Truggy races here in Kuwait. since its the first year, not many people will race them. i would love to do so but dont want to spend alot of money, i came a cross an 8ight T 1.0 on ebay that looks great. now, how different are the 1.0 from the 2.0?? is it worth it to get the 1.0?? and if so, what do you recommend to change?? can we use the 2.0 body's on the 1.0??

cheers

Ali

Can i use the ring gear off a 1.0 rtr on a 2.0 race roller?

Randystang i have been running the Extreme shock towers for about a year now and i have not had any probs with them and they have made it thought a hand full of hard crashes. I will tell you this i would buy them again in a heart beat.

The 2.0 is a whole different truck. Too many parts are different to even try to make a 1.0 into a 2.0. I have seen guys just do the chassis and rear center driveline and that's a pretty good conversion but it's still not a 2.0. I have had my 2.0 since it came out and I love it. It's a night and day difference. I have a buddy that I race with that finallympicked up a used 2.0 and he can't believe that he waited this long to switch from his 1.0. A good used 2.0 usually goes for 300-350 with some upgrades. I would go for the 2.0. As for the 2.0 body on a 1.0 it has been done but it takes a little doing.

thanks losiracer, can u tell me if the shock & camberlink holes are the same as the v2 towers sure looks it!

They are the same part number, don't see why not.

I need a socket that will fit on the nuts to take the shocks off with out denting the caps? Anybody have a good one out there?

hudy nut driver works just fine for me

+1 on hudy but it does help if you take the lower mount screw out 1st and then rotate the shock towards the front of the truck to make more room. Its a tight fit. I think I am using a proline driver right now t works well too al song as you remove the lower screw 1st.