Don't be fooled because you have the titanium pins they bend too. I wasted money on the inner hinge pin set, they bent faster then the losi ones.

the buggy IS 2.0 spec.....and i already explained why there's no 2.0 truggy chassis yet.

I have bent the outter titanium hinge pins several times and only bent 1 Lodi pin. Sincethey went the the lager size losi parts are hard to beat. I recently bought a 2.0 buggy from a racer that was all hopped up it was so hopped up with lightened axles and cv couplers that it was hard for me to drive but my biggers complaint was that the alum axles were difficult to get bearings on and off and I even split one in 1/2. I have never hadthat prob with the losi axles. I do love the bling that the fioroni stuff adds though. :D

M2C 4mm.

down side is you have to have a drill bit on hand if something brakes...or prep your spare parts before you go to the track.

i been lucky with the titauim, rear hub hidge pin for most of the summer/fall season 09, i had some hard landings. but i try not to though. yea that would, suck that if u bend the hub hinge pin, and have the eight 2.0 hubs on the eight 1.0 and have to ream or drill the hole.

What really sucks is when your using the aluminum rear hubs with titanium hinge pins and you bend a hinge pin inside the hub. Ends up being a pretty expensive landing.:(

Speaking of hinge pins, has anybody been able to get any inner hinge pins?
I ordered Losi ones about two months ago thru Horizon and they are still on backorder.:weird:

go M2C...imo they are nearly identical in the strength dept....you can bend either in a hard enough crash but they wont snap and at 5$ a pair its pretty cheap to have a couple on hand. :nod:

new
 

Just picked one of these up, very impressed, although pretty much everything I read in this thread is dead on. Excellent truck, very poor assembly.

My front diff was basically grinding out of the box, has anyone else had this issue? Everything I read on this thread seemed to discuss rear diff issues, and front seemed pretty straightforward.

I took it apart, added one shim to the left side (trial and error this was the best setup), just very lightly tightened down the gearbox, and now it doesn't bind. But it's far from smooth, it's loud and a but crunchy. Possibly this will wear in a bit? The rear and center are super smooth in comparison.

Also, I collected the list of "must do's" from this thread and am doing them now, but had a question. I purchased the 5-40x7/8 to replace the camber link screws with, but mine all seem to be 1" out of the box. Just to make sure I'm looking at the right screw, this is the button head screw that holds the turnbuckle?

Thanks.

Yea the screws on the inner camber link, they may have changed them since the earlier kits.

Yes they have.

I got mine about 3 months ago and the screws on the camber links stuck out the lock nut by a good 5mm.

I gave mine a good going over before I ran it the first time all I did was change 1 suspect shock end and releive abit of the mudguard around the throttle servo so there was a bit of clearance

+1 on the mud guard. I had the mudguard take out several throttle servos early this year. That's the only thing I could contribute it too. Since I shaved it down no kore servo issues.

thanks
 

Ok - great, glad I'm on the right track. Any ideas on the diff?

Here's the other stuff I'm doing
- remove and inspect all diffs
- alum gearbox bearing inserts, reshim rear
- replace shock ends
- chassis guards (sumo, need longer screws to accomodate)
- splash guards on rear
- 2mm hubs on front
- 1.0 servo saver
- wing mount screws 5-40x58" cap head
- alum adj hingpin holders

anybody know when theres guna be the 3rd gen of losi truggy coming out? maybe the 8 2.5 or 3.0 ?? anyway ive been wanting to go truggy for a while( i race buggy now) id be coming of an xray 808 and really like the look of the losi truck! turning to the dark side, ive heard rumours about some introductory cookies of some sort!! lol :D the other trucks im looking at ar the AE rc8t ce , the mugen 6t.. what are the main things needed to be done to make it reliable in a race situation?
any advice would be awsome!! :D

That's definatly a good start. With this truck when you replace ring and pinion always replace the gear box case as well, espically the rear the case is what allows the gears to flex and grind. The alum inserts are a must but they don't solve the issue completly. Have you gotten the rear hubs and spindles modded to take the larger 8x16 outter bearing? The stock bearings are too small and don't last long at all. Otherwise drive it and see how it all works togeather. With just a few alum pieces and some good maintence my truck has not let me down yet this year. These trucks are great.