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slumlord 06-14-2009 10:25 AM


Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft (Post 5936459)
i have alsp checked that they are clear another thing i forgot to mention is i used klonger screws that hold the radio tray down and pushed some orings over them and tighten the tray down firmly onto the orings doesnt seem to raise the tray that much at all if anything :)

For the love of god get a spell checker, it hurts my head trying to decode your posts.
:lol:

mattwoodcraft 06-14-2009 10:31 AM

:lol: yea i know not my strong point :lol: keeps you guessing

sugelle 06-14-2009 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 5936430)
Make sure your servos aren't hitting the chassis. Vibrations are a big source of failure. With that said I never use rubber grommets, but if the servos are resting on the chassis they will do as described. I would definately check into that. It's the only thing I can think of. If they are hitting the chassis you should just be able to use the losi servo spacers to raise them slightly. I know the 2.0 tray is not supposed to need them, but it is a good possibility that it does for some servos.:nod:

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodList.asp

According to the manual.....HiTec servos don't need the spacers. I wonder if the flex tuned chassis flexes and causes the servos to hit the chassis continously? Is anyone having servo issues and they are using the alumin chassis stiffners?

JAMMINKRAZY 06-14-2009 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by sugelle (Post 5936755)
According to the manual.....HiTec servos don't need the spacers. I wonder if the flex tuned chassis flexes and causes the servos to hit the chassis continously? Is anyone having servo issues and they are using the alumin chassis stiffners?

I really don't care what the manual says.:lol: If it's sitting on the chassis or very close to you need a spacer. I actually just checked and my futaba throttle servos were sitting right on the chassis. I added some spacers I had from the 1.0 and all is fine now. Luckily I didn't have any failures even though they were on the chassis, but it was only a matter of time until one failed. The new radio tray places the servo 8mm farther outward than the 1.0, which puts the servo on the flat of the chassis and not in the milled spot. Because of the chamfer on the chassis sides, there is no way for them to machine it any further. Easiest way to check is, with the tray in, remove the radio tray side mud guard and check for clearence. You want about 1mm of clearence so it won't hit when the chassis flexes.:nod:

l3asher 06-14-2009 12:15 PM

Losi Clutch Set Up
 
I have been running the losi clutch set for some time. After lasts nights dnf with new ceramic bearing for 3 five minute quals and a 30 minute main i am done. 20 minutes into the main the front CB bearing came apart and locked the clutch down. I thought it was my diff but after review when I took the motor out the move freely and that when I noticed the CB bearing was toast. Al this to ask what aftermarket clutch are y'all running? This will be on my v spec.


thanks

JAMMINKRAZY 06-14-2009 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 5936812)
I have been running the losi clutch set for some time. After lasts nights dnf with new ceramic bearing for 3 five minute quals and a 30 minute main i am done. 20 minutes into the main the front CB bearing came apart and locked the clutch down. I thought it was my diff but after review when I took the motor out the move freely and that when I noticed the CB bearing was toast. Al this to ask what aftermarket clutch are y'all running? This will be on my v spec.


thanks

Fioroni sliders are the only option IMO. I use the turbo twin 2007 setup with all carbon shoes and fioroni hard springs. I have 11 gallons on my origional set of shoes, and probably 3 sets of springs. I am just to the point where I will probably be changing the shoes before the next big race. The clutch grabs great and lasts forever. Best part is that mantinence is almost unneeded, and very simple. Clutch bearings last for gallons of fuel. I also use robinson bells, which really help with the bearing life too. People:D will comment that the fioroni doesn't have enough snap for a truggy with .21 engine, but my findings are completely opposite. It has tons of snap with 2 hard springs, and I run the same engine as you(v-spec). It usually goes for around $65 and is one of the best 65 dollars I have ever spent.:nod: GO FIORONI!

pooldoc 06-14-2009 01:55 PM

+1 on the fiorini, I just switched back to my turbo slider, the losi clutch hit too hard with 4 maxlife shoes, gold/green springs., I'm using the losi bell, only needed 1 shim to get it right, I use 2 soft/1 hard spring, only draw back to the fiorini is expensive springs and brass washer. I use a mugen diff washer in place of the brass one, it lasts much longer.

JAMMINKRAZY 06-14-2009 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by pooldoc (Post 5936980)
+1 on the fiorini, I just switched back to my turbo slider, the losi clutch hit too hard with 4 maxlife shoes, gold/green springs., I'm using the losi bell, only needed 1 shim to get it right, I use 2 soft/1 hard spring, only draw back to the fiorini is expensive springs and brass washer. I use a mugen diff washer in place of the brass one, it lasts much longer.

Agreed! I use the same mugen washers in my clutches. :nod:

Integra 06-14-2009 02:09 PM


Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 5936812)
I have been running the losi clutch set for some time. After lasts nights dnf with new ceramic bearing for 3 five minute quals and a 30 minute main i am done. 20 minutes into the main the front CB bearing came apart and locked the clutch down. I thought it was my diff but after review when I took the motor out the move freely and that when I noticed the CB bearing was toast. Al this to ask what aftermarket clutch are y'all running? This will be on my v spec.


thanks


M2C is the way to go buddy.....Reg hards on .9/.95 and you'll be set....Imo Fioroni clutch's are WAY too soft on bottom and cause other issues....for clutch bell you can go either way....Losi or OFNA standard but you will need to flip the top blocks around and the bonus to running the OFNA is the fact they are vented...Imo Heat is a big problem in 1/8 clutch's...and the vented make a world of difference on how the clutch performs....I wish losi made a vented version. :nod:

JAMMINKRAZY 06-14-2009 02:14 PM


Originally Posted by Integra (Post 5937014)
Imo Fioroni clutch's are WAY too soft on bottom

:D:D

Integra 06-14-2009 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 5937023)
:D:D



yaya we all know....No need to get into it. :lol:

slumlord 06-14-2009 03:07 PM


Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 5936812)
I have been running the losi clutch set for some time. After lasts nights dnf with new ceramic bearing for 3 five minute quals and a 30 minute main i am done. 20 minutes into the main the front CB bearing came apart and locked the clutch down. I thought it was my diff but after review when I took the motor out the move freely and that when I noticed the CB bearing was toast. Al this to ask what aftermarket clutch are y'all running? This will be on my v spec.


thanks

I had over 2 hours of run time and countless laps on the set that came with the truck. I don't wanna be a dick or anything but it sounds like your mesh is too tight and you're roasting the bearings.

If your mesh is too tight you will roast the front bearing every time.

Frank L 06-14-2009 04:33 PM

I tried expensive ceramic bearings in my losi clutch and they spin great when they are new, after they get a little dirt in them from running they catch and just flat out suck in my opinion. My fav bearings are the losi HD clutch bearings. I have been using the same set for at least 3 months now with no problems. I just clean them and re-oil them before each main when I check the clutches and so far smooth as silk. As for the clutches I still like the losi setup. I run king headz 6061 shoes and 2 green/ 2 gold. I have 2 - 30 min mains (well one was 23 due to a defective throttle servo), a 15 min main and at least 60 mins of practice on this set. They are still measuring 24+mm and with no transfer in the bell at all it stays smooth inside. I have tried all the other shoes and I mean all. The king headz 6061 are my fav. I will stick with the losi set up.

jwcobra03 06-14-2009 04:58 PM


Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 5936812)
I have been running the losi clutch set for some time. After lasts nights dnf with new ceramic bearing for 3 five minute quals and a 30 minute main i am done. 20 minutes into the main the front CB bearing came apart and locked the clutch down. I thought it was my diff but after review when I took the motor out the move freely and that when I noticed the CB bearing was toast. Al this to ask what aftermarket clutch are y'all running? This will be on my v spec.


thanks

l3asher have you tried the losi hd cluthbell bearings with the high endurance bell? I get three full race days out of them, then change for preventative care.

mattwoodcraft 06-14-2009 05:10 PM

what about the losi long life shoes are they okey or the dyn max life ?
i have been using the Answer long life shoes been working well so far ...
befor any main its always good to start with a fresh clutch :)

i havent had any problem with failing clutch bearings at all so far


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