It is fine I had same question on my third break in tank called Associated and the man said it is normal as you drive it more (put more fuel through it) it does it less

Does a 6s lipo fit into the conversion set of associated? Or only a 4s?

I ordered a SC 8 and was wanting to know what battery connector am I going to need for my 6 cell stick pack for the starter. Thanks

Old school Tamiya connector like this (has to be female to connect to male that is on starter)

If you're referring to the Associated eConversion kit, it is designed for (2) 2S 7.4v 1/10 scale size batteries. From their web site - "Molded battery tray supports two ROAR-approved 1:10 scale size 7.4v LiPo battery packs with room for foam pads"

Gear Meshing
 

I have a question, i took my engine off to change the clutch shoes and now that i have it all together and want to put it in the car i have a problem. Whith the engine pushed as close as possible to the spur gear i still have quite some air in between the spur gear and the clutch bell, but i cant go any closer because the screws that hold on the engine on the chasis are all the way to the maximum. How do i know if they are too far apart? is there something wrong? or is this normal on the sc8, i have the stock spur gear and clutch bell, havent changed anything other than the clutch shoes and that went well.

thank you

I took my motor off when I first got my sc8 just to lock tight everything and I placed mine back in were the motor mount screws would touch just like you did and it is perfect ( mesh )

happy days just got mine today

i want to stock up on some spare parts. no hs close to were i live.
will be using this as a racer only.
any suggestions on what parts to get,

front bumpers and skip plates

maybe steering knuckles...
also pull the front and locktite the set screw in the cvd

If you order the steering knuckles get the ones for the rc8T truggy they do not have the notch out they are straight across. I personal do not have any as I have not needed them but an Associated factory driver races at my local track and he put them on his RC8 buggy and they definitely look like they would be stronger.

thanks guys
what about the cvds and mostly clutch parts and spurs

2 freinds both had spurs strip had to switch to 17t bells to get proper mesh
anyone else run into this?

i never owned A/E before

but i like it!!!!!!!!!

I just took my 16 tooth off and put a 17 tooth on because I wanted a little less bottom end and more top end it seemed like it would rev up real tight in the straight to fast so that is why I went 17 my stock 16 tooth which had 3/4 of a gallon on it showed no signs of wear but I did notice that when installing the 17 tooth I was still able to slide the screws all the way against the chassis and mesh was still good with a 17 tooth so I guess it was a little loose mesh wise with the 16 but still ran fine with no visible wear.

Hey guys. New to this site and new to racing. Been bashing for about 10 years though. I wanted to get into racing with my sons.
Took the SC8 to the track for practice the other day and failed miserably. Most new racers do I guess. One problem I found was the more I drove, the more the rear would fish tale especially in the turns and when I hit throttle on the straight, the back would come unglued. Cant keep a straight line. Any suggestions? Thanks,
Rob.

I took my shocks apart and put the 1.5 pistons on front and rear with 50 weight shock fluid than set the preload so when you pick the front or rear of the truck off of the table about a foot or less and drop it the a arms are level I did that and put a 17 tooth clutch bell on to tame the low end torque down and it handles Great on the track I raced for the first time yesterday with it and got 2nd and I was the only SC8 I ran with the truggy's This truck is so much fun :nod:

what glow plug should i use in this sc8 stock engine 4.6
new to associated.

thanks for any input