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i need some input on the GO-tech motors for a 1/8 buggy!

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i need some input on the GO-tech motors for a 1/8 buggy!

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Old 07-24-2008, 08:34 PM
  #16  
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Default GO Motors ROCK

Originally Posted by 22Racer
If you do buy a Go, it sure helps to buy one from a dealer that can help you with tuning and break in. There are some out there that simply sell them but are not much help. Brian (Ptm) and myself have probably run almost every engine Go makes and can tune them over the phone while cooking supper. lol!

Rex
I can vouch for that, although I never needed help with any of mine.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:08 PM
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On all new motors I sell I offer free service. Want new Tko bearings installed, new rod, pinch a sleeve (it will take a long time before you need it on a Go) I will do any labor free on all motors I sell, all you do is pay for parts.

Rex
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:39 PM
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I had a 5 port turbo and the motor was never right from the start. When the motor ran the performance was there but I dont know if I would buy another one. Personally I would spend a little more and get a tried and true novarossi. Just cant beat them.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:21 AM
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I have an RB and I swear by them. However for the price $209 for there best engine I'm going to try one. I hear to many good things about the engines and not enough bad things. Every engine brand has people who hate them who had problems. Oh thats pretty much like every thing you might buy. It all comes down to if you do the math. 90% of all problems are user error and 10% are actually manufactors defect in all goods bought and sold. If you produce and sell thousands of items there are going to be a percentage that are defective even honda's come defective. Doesn't mean there bad cars means there was a defective car. When your talking more than double the price for a Nova or RB and some other brands. Wouldn't spending 1/2 the money for the same risk and same reward be a wise buying decision. It's an establish fact no other engine is just going to walk away from a properly tuned GO. In most cases its a dead heat or the GO is the one doing the walking away. Just another bit of info the race is rarely if ever one by the fastest engine but by the best driver and pit crew. You know simple things like best lines, least marshaling, least piting, fastest piting and other driver related skills. Now only if you could purchase better driving skills that would be worth double the price and last a lifetime.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:52 AM
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Just a lil insight from a true rookie,

I was at the preworlds last weekend at the Farm. I live 10 miles from there I learned alot from watching and listening to real pro's. It didn't take me long to figure out who would do well in a race after the 1st 3-5 laps. Usually I was dead on with my pick each time. It was never the guy with the fast car down the straight. He would usually walk buggies down in the straight. For what ever reason when he got into the turns and small straights and short run ups. The other buggies would go to work on his butt. leaving him behind like a yoyo effect he would catch them in the long straight and they would get him in the turns. After a few laps the less say more torque better mid engines would have a lead that his advantage in the straight was soon nullified having lost to much ground in the turns. By the end of the race he wasn't even close. I drew this conclusion 80% of most tracks are 80% turns and short straights. Top end only equates for the last 1/2 of the long straight which quickly puts you back on your brakes. for more turns and short straights. Top end really doesn't equate to anything other than bragging rights in some drag race. Bottom end torque and mid is everything. The engines that wound up to there mid power bands the quickest generally one each race depending on the driver. I could practically close my ends and tell which buggy was going to do well based on sound. The winding up of the engine and how fast it was winding. I may be wrong but what does it matter if you have the fastest engine. When it's a matter of torque and mid poweband. Which can be adjusted by gearing and the pipe you run.


LET THE FLAMING BEGIN!!!!
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
I had a 5 port turbo and the motor was never right from the start. When the motor ran the performance was there but I dont know if I would buy another one. Personally I would spend a little more and get a tried and true novarossi. Just cant beat them.
Same, but I had a 3 Port.

And I spent a little more and got an RB.

Those Go's have the power, no doubt, but mine was way too much hassle. Needed to be re-tuned every time it warmed up.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:02 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by vladconnery
Just a lil insight from a true rookie,

I was at the preworlds last weekend at the Farm. I live 10 miles from there I learned alot from watching and listening to real pro's. It didn't take me long to figure out who would do well in a race after the 1st 3-5 laps. Usually I was dead on with my pick each time. It was never the guy with the fast car down the straight. He would usually walk buggies down in the straight. For what ever reason when he got into the turns and small straights and short run ups. The other buggies would go to work on his butt. leaving him behind like a yoyo effect he would catch them in the long straight and they would get him in the turns. After a few laps the less say more torque better mid engines would have a lead that his advantage in the straight was soon nullified having lost to much ground in the turns. By the end of the race he wasn't even close. I drew this conclusion 80% of most tracks are 80% turns and short straights. Top end only equates for the last 1/2 of the long straight which quickly puts you back on your brakes. for more turns and short straights. Top end really doesn't equate to anything other than bragging rights in some drag race. Bottom end torque and mid is everything. The engines that wound up to there mid power bands the quickest generally one each race depending on the driver. I could practically close my ends and tell which buggy was going to do well based on sound. The winding up of the engine and how fast it was winding. I may be wrong but what does it matter if you have the fastest engine. When it's a matter of torque and mid poweband. Which can be adjusted by gearing and the pipe you run.


LET THE FLAMING BEGIN!!!!
I have the Go 3P R. In hind side I should have got the Go 5P T. I think this would be a perfect match for what you’re looking for, it’s punchy out of corners and good top end. If it’s got too much bottom end play around with clutch springs, or alternatively use the Fironi Turbo Sliding clutch, this will take away some bottom end. Use an OS P3/P4 plug and the 0801 pipe, $300 and some change leftover.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:22 AM
  #23  
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If you get a go 21 change the head button to a turbo one change the carb for either a sirio or rb carb and seal the back plate and carb neck and pinch bolt and you will have a good motor i run a go 21 3 port race and it is super fast mate.
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:39 PM
  #24  
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i had a rb s5 l2g new an ran 3 gallons in it a lost all pinch and would not run or stay running! i am not a happy camper about it, it did have compsion.
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Old 07-25-2008, 03:13 PM
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T4-RC8 RACER77, any good motor will not just lose compression for no reason. It might have gotten hot or probably sucked a little dirt. If you want it fixed I do motor service, $35.00 if all it needs is a pinch for compression.

Rex
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:38 PM
  #26  
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i think i streched the rod at the crank. i ll put new stuff back in it.what is the price on the piston rod slieve.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:44 PM
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the guys at the track told me that the rb s5 was too lean on the bottom and thats y it was bogging, but it was fast on the top end,temps were 265.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by cheesecake
let the flaming begin lol


i dont run one anymore but i did and with my expierence i wouldnt run one again
When is someone gunna tell this clown to pull his head in.......Mate you come across like you've got a grudge about anything you use and abuse. If I was you, I'd give it all up and take up knitting. Maybe then you can find a knitting forum and bag out the knitting needles you use.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:04 PM
  #29  
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I know this is a Go Tech thread but I got to chime in on the RB. My Rb idle'd 1st tank out the box with no restart. straight out the box was eeeeeeeeaaasy to tune. By a long shot I'm no pro at tuning it runs good takes off like a bansheeee. Has great mid and is ok on top end I need to run a 2045 to get better top and it's on the way. My temps are are 210-230. If I run it leaner it goes up to 240-260 but that tune is only for racing. I did have tuning probs in the beging do to user error. Got some quality advice retuned havent had a prob since. excellent motor for the novice.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Semple
Same, but I had a 3 Port.

And I spent a little more and got an RB.

Those Go's have the power, no doubt, but mine was way too much hassle. Needed to be re-tuned every time it warmed up.
Love the price and quality but mine also neede to be tuned during pre-race.
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