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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 11-05-2014, 08:36 PM
  #18016  
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+1 Easier to use for fitment as well.

Originally Posted by Gixer Jay
Yes. I've used them for years on my MP9. IMO they are much better than the stock accordion style and don't tear as easy. Rubber is just a bit thicker

Tebo has used them for a long time on his buggies too.
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:47 PM
  #18017  
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Originally Posted by Lochlan/kyosho
Don't waste your money on that stuff..
Just buy a pack of 100 colorful waterballoons at any chinese corner shop, costs the same, 100-250 units included, lasts twice as long, works twice as good.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:20 PM
  #18018  
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Smile KYOSHO MP9/STRR ALUMINUM SERVO HORNS



M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our aluminum servo
horns for the MP9/STRR VEHICLES.
these arms are made using a Losi steel insert for the spline fits.
they will come in:
m2c 2790 (23 spline)
m2c 2791 (24 spline to fit HITEC)kits will contain a 2.6x 10 screw for these servos
m2c 2792 (25 spline)
We have had great success with these on the MUGEN MBX7
these models are made using the standard book setup for the brake and
throttle levers.
the kits will contain a 2 x 12 screw and 2 mm locknut for the throttle side.
You will use the stock 2.5 mm bolt and nut for the brake side.
The 3 mm x 12 screw will also be included in the 23 and 25 spline kits to hold the horn on.
the 2.5 delrin washer will go on the top of the brake side to space up the upper brake linkage.
One thing I noticed when assembling these servo horns was the plastic bushings supplied in the kit
were tight on the screws.
You want the parts to be very free with no resistance of any kind.
the parts are available on the our website.
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:21 AM
  #18019  
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Cody King's 2014 Worlds set up. On his website he mentions that they were working on and changing set up everyday right through the 1/4 finals and up to the finals to make the car feel right and this is what they came up with. I watched race on LiveRc and like looking at the set up sheet to see if that's what I would have contemplated doing.
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-codyking2014worlds.jpg  
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:34 PM
  #18020  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Cody King's 2014 Worlds set up. On his website he mentions that they were working on and changing set up everyday right through the 1/4 finals and up to the finals to make the car feel right and this is what they came up with. I watched race on LiveRc and like looking at the set up sheet to see if that's what I would have contemplated doing.
this is the perfect setup if you plan to convert your MP9 into a rallye game (track: concrete )

just realised after rebuilding the chassis I have quite a lot of play in the rear hubs, do I need to change the plastic inserts only or could it be something else?
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:21 PM
  #18021  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Cody King's 2014 Worlds set up. On his website he mentions that they were working on and changing set up everyday right through the 1/4 finals and up to the finals to make the car feel right and this is what they came up with. I watched race on LiveRc and like looking at the set up sheet to see if that's what I would have contemplated doing.
The MP9 offers so many setup possibilities and the setups are the same since 2010 Worlds...There has been no breakthroughs, no further testing on roll centers and wide and narrow track. Other brands didn't stagnate and are now ahead of Kyosho, as seen in the 2012 and 2014 World Champs A final. I say this not to say that I know more than anyone but because I believe the MP9 has way more performance hidden, let this be a wake up call to search more speed.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:00 PM
  #18022  
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Thumbs down

Originally Posted by 30Tooth
Other brands didn't stagnate and are now ahead of Kyosho, as seen in the 2012 and 2014 World Champs A final.
I don't think that's the problem.
I ran Kyosho last season, then swapped to Hotbodies.
The 2014 worlds put the spotlight on the major Kyosho problem.
Cody King couldn't even pass start at the first lap before the front suspension arm was broken.
(I'd like to mention at this point I am not a hater, I liked the Kyosho, and I still have it, I love how it drives, etc.)

But every single time there's a race on, I see someone who drives a Kyosho with a broken front suspension arm, it's ridiculous.
After switching to hotbodies I've replaced the suspension arms once, after they were worn out.. I've put 30 races on the car.

The major problem as far as I see, is the front suspension arm weakness. I once asked Yuichi Kanai in a message on facebook if they couldn't make them stronger. There was never any reply. Still not.

After I switched to Hotbodies I've been talking with Torrance Deguzman on facebook all the time, if ever I need some advice he's quick to give it, I can't tell you how huge the contrast is to the non-response from Yuichi Kanai, he even sent me two big huge Hotbodies banners for me to bring to races.

It's been two years Yuichi, it's not too late to make a better suspension arm. Still waiting for your response to my message. Thanks.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:31 PM
  #18023  
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Cody's accident was a weird one, I didn't see it but read that his buggy and Phend's TLR tangled on the start and went pit wall head on. You still have a point, it's the most known issue with the MP9 and other brands might not break an arm in the same situation. See vid with a couple of durability tests.
Do you know where most arms are breaking?

OTH, most of the other Pros didn't break anything but performance was "lacking". I wish I could be there to test smaller holes in the front pistons and a long front/rear upper arm.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by 30Tooth; 11-07-2014 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:31 PM
  #18024  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
I don't think that's the problem.
I ran Kyosho last season, then swapped to Hotbodies.
The 2014 worlds put the spotlight on the major Kyosho problem.
Cody King couldn't even pass start at the first lap before the front suspension arm was broken.
(I'd like to mention at this point I am not a hater, I liked the Kyosho, and I still have it, I love how it drives, etc.)

But every single time there's a race on, I see someone who drives a Kyosho with a broken front suspension arm, it's ridiculous.
After switching to hotbodies I've replaced the suspension arms once, after they were worn out.. I've put 30 races on the car.

The major problem as far as I see, is the front suspension arm weakness. I once asked Yuichi Kanai in a message on facebook if they couldn't make them stronger. There was never any reply. Still not.

After I switched to Hotbodies I've been talking with Torrance Deguzman on facebook all the time, if ever I need some advice he's quick to give it, I can't tell you how huge the contrast is to the non-response from Yuichi Kanai, he even sent me two big huge Hotbodies banners for me to bring to races.

It's been two years Yuichi, it's not too late to make a better suspension arm. Still waiting for your response to my message. Thanks.
Here's his response, coupled together sould make for better strenght. One of the local guys ran just the shaft from the rear up front and hasn't broken one and he's a complete animal.
Kyosho Front Lower Suspension Arm Set (Hard)
KYOIF483
Kyosho 3x42.8mm Hard Front Lower Suspension Shaft Screw (2)
KYOIFW458
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:10 PM
  #18025  
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Anyone getting that slop on the steering posts? I screwed in the top and bottom 4mm screws and still get that slop. It's about a 1mm bit of play. I'm not sure if that's normal or if you're suppose to shim it. Someone here mentioned that their steering locks up, and I think that's causing it to lock when the wheel is turned all the way. Thanks
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:10 AM
  #18026  
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Originally Posted by CleanCutGil
Anyone getting that slop on the steering posts? I screwed in the top and bottom 4mm screws and still get that slop. It's about a 1mm bit of play. I'm not sure if that's normal or if you're suppose to shim it. Someone here mentioned that their steering locks up, and I think that's causing it to lock when the wheel is turned all the way. Thanks
Do you have some play on the steering posts themselves? In years of running MP9's, from the original TKI kit through to current TKI3 kits, I've never seen any slop when screwing down the steering posts. The bottom 4mm screws hold the posts in place so tightly, I've never seen any car with play - and 1mm sounds like quite a bit. Absolutely you shouldn't have to be shimming anything at all so I'm wondering if perhaps either your chassis or the steering post(s?) have been machined incorrectly and have a small defect of some kind?

Is it both steering posts or just one that seems to have the play? Do you mean that the post is actually wobbling and that's the 1mm play you're experiencing? Sure sounds like something's not quite right in there. Hope you get it sorted.
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:05 PM
  #18027  
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Originally Posted by jaron_cc
Here's his response, coupled together sould make for better strenght. One of the local guys ran just the shaft from the rear up front and hasn't broken one and he's a complete animal.
Kyosho Front Lower Suspension Arm Set (Hard)
KYOIF483
Kyosho 3x42.8mm Hard Front Lower Suspension Shaft Screw (2)
KYOIFW458
Going hard, does it change the drive? Or just make it more durable?
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:06 PM
  #18028  
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Originally Posted by Kopanas
Going hard, does it change the drive? Or just make it more durable?
Changes nothing just increases durability.
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:41 PM
  #18029  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Do you have some play on the steering posts themselves? In years of running MP9's, from the original TKI kit through to current TKI3 kits, I've never seen any slop when screwing down the steering posts. The bottom 4mm screws hold the posts in place so tightly, I've never seen any car with play - and 1mm sounds like quite a bit. Absolutely you shouldn't have to be shimming anything at all so I'm wondering if perhaps either your chassis or the steering post(s?) have been machined incorrectly and have a small defect of some kind?

Is it both steering posts or just one that seems to have the play? Do you mean that the post is actually wobbling and that's the 1mm play you're experiencing? Sure sounds like something's not quite right in there. Hope you get it sorted.
No it's not wobbling. Both slide up and down. I'll clean and tighten the bottom again but I thought I tightened it enough. I know the ackerman has a lil slop but didn't think the posts did. I can hear it clink when the car lands. I'll check the manual to see if I'm missing something but it's just wierd.
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:48 PM
  #18030  
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Mine slides up and down on the posts as well. I tend to think that's how it is unless your bearings have frozen themselves to the posts kind of like how the swing shafts rust themselves onto the wheel bearings sometimes.
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