Inferno MP9 thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Anyone got a steering top plate and/or a radio tray laying around they could weigh and tell me what they weigh in grams? THX
i just did a whole season of hard core racing and i did not break any front arms at all. everything is kit except for all the inserts and bushings and driveline. which is the norm in all kits. and they all break my k car has no issues.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I'm a smooth driver but it doesn't mean I don't crash sometimes
Moderator
iTrader: (159)
+1 from me.
I changed to the TKI3 about 6 months ago, and have nearly five gallons of racing and practicing on it so far, and I've broken two left front arms.
However, each time it was due to extreme blunt force trauma when running into a jagged immovable object (end of railroad ties on the outside of the track) at a high rate of speed.
Those crashes would've broken the arm of any car I've ever had, and I've had most of them at some point.
I travel to races fairly regularly, and I don't see the k-cars breaking anymore than any of the other major brands. I love mine - it handles like no other buggy I've ever driven.
I changed to the TKI3 about 6 months ago, and have nearly five gallons of racing and practicing on it so far, and I've broken two left front arms.
However, each time it was due to extreme blunt force trauma when running into a jagged immovable object (end of railroad ties on the outside of the track) at a high rate of speed.
Those crashes would've broken the arm of any car I've ever had, and I've had most of them at some point.
I travel to races fairly regularly, and I don't see the k-cars breaking anymore than any of the other major brands. I love mine - it handles like no other buggy I've ever driven.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
I don't think that's the problem.
I ran Kyosho last season, then swapped to Hotbodies.
The 2014 worlds put the spotlight on the major Kyosho problem.
Cody King couldn't even pass start at the first lap before the front suspension arm was broken.
(I'd like to mention at this point I am not a hater, I liked the Kyosho, and I still have it, I love how it drives, etc.)
But every single time there's a race on, I see someone who drives a Kyosho with a broken front suspension arm, it's ridiculous.
After switching to hotbodies I've replaced the suspension arms once, after they were worn out.. I've put 30 races on the car.
The major problem as far as I see, is the front suspension arm weakness. I once asked Yuichi Kanai in a message on facebook if they couldn't make them stronger. There was never any reply. Still not.
After I switched to Hotbodies I've been talking with Torrance Deguzman on facebook all the time, if ever I need some advice he's quick to give it, I can't tell you how huge the contrast is to the non-response from Yuichi Kanai, he even sent me two big huge Hotbodies banners for me to bring to races.
It's been two years Yuichi, it's not too late to make a better suspension arm. Still waiting for your response to my message. Thanks.
I ran Kyosho last season, then swapped to Hotbodies.
The 2014 worlds put the spotlight on the major Kyosho problem.
Cody King couldn't even pass start at the first lap before the front suspension arm was broken.
(I'd like to mention at this point I am not a hater, I liked the Kyosho, and I still have it, I love how it drives, etc.)
But every single time there's a race on, I see someone who drives a Kyosho with a broken front suspension arm, it's ridiculous.
After switching to hotbodies I've replaced the suspension arms once, after they were worn out.. I've put 30 races on the car.
The major problem as far as I see, is the front suspension arm weakness. I once asked Yuichi Kanai in a message on facebook if they couldn't make them stronger. There was never any reply. Still not.
After I switched to Hotbodies I've been talking with Torrance Deguzman on facebook all the time, if ever I need some advice he's quick to give it, I can't tell you how huge the contrast is to the non-response from Yuichi Kanai, he even sent me two big huge Hotbodies banners for me to bring to races.
It's been two years Yuichi, it's not too late to make a better suspension arm. Still waiting for your response to my message. Thanks.
anyone have a quick fix for the axles popping out? Im going to get the 93mm axles but would like to know of a quick fix since im racing tonight.
Moderator
iTrader: (159)
Thanks, Brad
add a couple of 8X10 shims to the axle BEFORE inserting it in the hub bearings
in the front using aluminum c-hubs gets rid of most of the flex that causes the axles to pop out
in the front using aluminum c-hubs gets rid of most of the flex that causes the axles to pop out
I've never had anything pop out either which is odd because apparently allot of people are having that issue
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Most setups call for a 98-100mm front shock length, but I always wanted to try a setup with more front droop. This would require using the longer shock caps and possibly unscrewing some threads on the shock end.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I think I've maxed out the front droop at around 103mm. I always run the TKI shock caps, mainly because they prevent the shock pistons from contacting the bottom of the inside of the shock body and creating stiction. I also unscrew my shock ends enough so the piston nut is flush with the top of the body at full compression. I also always run 93mm shafts on all 4 corners. While I can get droop to 103, the MP9 handles better when front droop is around 100.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Ok I need some help. Im running a Novarossi Maxy's Cinco BT Tuned Version engine on my MP9 and Im having to grind on the lower motor mount,slot out the motor adjustment holes, and grind on the motor mount on the engine itself in order to get the motor over towards the center enough for the mesh to be right and tight. Anyone got a solution or do I need to just keep grindin..lol Also I do realize most people are grinding on the engine mount some but mine seems excessive. THX
I think I've maxed out the front droop at around 103mm. I always run the TKI shock caps, mainly because they prevent the shock pistons from contacting the bottom of the inside of the shock body and creating stiction. I also unscrew my shock ends enough so the piston nut is flush with the top of the body at full compression. I also always run 93mm shafts on all 4 corners. While I can get droop to 103, the MP9 handles better when front droop is around 100.
With stock shock caps and without unscrewing the shock ends, I'm pretty sure the most droop you can get is a shock length of about 100-101, and even with full droop, I've never had an axle pop out, but I do run metal hub carriers.
Even though you say going to 103 shock length doesn't feel all that great, I will still try it to see the difference. Thanks again.