Inferno MP9 thread
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Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Im pretty sure that the difference is nominal and neither me or you could tell the difference on the track between the chassis. Can Jared Tebo or Cody king tell the difference maybe. Does it make a difference to normal people on this forum no. Im sticking with its the same chassis besides the anodization.
The chassis differences have already been talked about a bunch. Just as much as drilling a hole, and several people have already mentioned how the two drive differently. I've driven both back to back and definitely feel the difference. These are a bunch of regular non-Tebo drivers commenting on the differences.
Exactly!
I mean how do some conspiracy photos from space prove a point?
I'm not buying that crap either! The earth is flat and there is nothing you can do to convince me otherwise.
I mean how do some conspiracy photos from space prove a point?
I'm not buying that crap either! The earth is flat and there is nothing you can do to convince me otherwise.
Last edited by HH; 01-23-2014 at 03:22 PM.
my original chassis is exactly 3mm at various places. I only raced it once so it is fairly new and I measured it where the anodizing was not worn off. So I guess for some unknown reason the replacement chassis in the vid gained 0.2mm of material from all that wearing.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Will be getting the BCE chassis from Bill soon and probably be running it more since the stockers wearing out too fast!
I'm sure it is some kind of manufacturing issue that Kyosho cannot disclose, and we'll leave it at that. If you weigh in the fact that K parts have been made in the US sometime back, it makes sense to have 1/8" 7075 alum lying around. Chassis don't require molds so even more likely.
If it doesn't matter for Tebo/King, it won't matter for us. Moving on.
If it doesn't matter for Tebo/King, it won't matter for us. Moving on.
Tech Master
iTrader: (58)
Nah, just case every jump on the track at full bore. It'll "wear in"
Hard to believe this question still comes up weekly.
On the suject of the replacement chassis, I also noticed car had less traction when initally installed (due to slight thickness difference perhaps as said by others). About a gallon later, it felt close to the stock chassis. Looks way cooler though
Hard to believe this question still comes up weekly.
On the suject of the replacement chassis, I also noticed car had less traction when initally installed (due to slight thickness difference perhaps as said by others). About a gallon later, it felt close to the stock chassis. Looks way cooler though
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
just slapped on the M2C chassis and it is stiffer than the darker, stock K chassis and similar to my MP9e. With extended motor mount on, the stock chassis still flexed more than my MP9e and this m2c.
Last edited by bohdi; 01-25-2014 at 06:47 AM.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Has anyone tried the aluminum c hubs made in hong kong from ebay? I'm just wondering because there just 21.99. If the geometry is the same, I would think there would be no difference..
Tech Addict
Guys I would like to know what the differences in spur gears do ?
Like I have a 46 on the car now what would I notice by putting on a 48 ? Need a new spur gear and don't want to buy the wrong one thanks .
Like I have a 46 on the car now what would I notice by putting on a 48 ? Need a new spur gear and don't want to buy the wrong one thanks .
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
13/46 is pretty much the standard for most all track and engine combos
Tech Addict
So running 13/46 is normal the set up I was using had 13/48 is that to decrease some wheel spin on ruff tracks? And will I still b able to take the triple right after the tight corner ? Sorry for all the question trying to get car ready for the race this weekend .
Tech Initiate
Drove my mp9 on my local track for the first time today. Was going well till i launched it over a set of doubles and misjudged my line and hit the fence right next to the track and did some good damage!
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.
The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.
thanks,
Paul
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.
The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.
thanks,
Paul
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Drove my mp9 on my local track for the first time today. Was going well till i launched it over a set of doubles and misjudged my line and hit the fence right next to the track and did some good damage!
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.
The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.
thanks,
Paul
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.
The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.
thanks,
Paul