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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-23-2014, 02:48 PM
  #16366  
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Originally Posted by inpuressa
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
How does measuring two worn out chassis prove a point ?
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:53 PM
  #16367  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
Im pretty sure that the difference is nominal and neither me or you could tell the difference on the track between the chassis. Can Jared Tebo or Cody king tell the difference maybe. Does it make a difference to normal people on this forum no. Im sticking with its the same chassis besides the anodization.
I'm pretty sure the earth is flat... maybe a slight curvature for water run-off but neither me or you could tell the difference when walking down the road. Can Jared Tebo or Cody king tell the difference maybe. Does it make a difference to normal people on this forum no. Im sticking with the world is flat besides the slight curvature for run-off.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:02 PM
  #16368  
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The chassis differences have already been talked about a bunch. Just as much as drilling a hole, and several people have already mentioned how the two drive differently. I've driven both back to back and definitely feel the difference. These are a bunch of regular non-Tebo drivers commenting on the differences.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:10 PM
  #16369  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
How does measuring two worn out chassis prove a point ?
Exactly!


I mean how do some conspiracy photos from space prove a point?

I'm not buying that crap either! The earth is flat and there is nothing you can do to convince me otherwise.


Last edited by HH; 01-23-2014 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:11 PM
  #16370  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
How does measuring two worn out chassis prove a point ?
my original chassis is exactly 3mm at various places. I only raced it once so it is fairly new and I measured it where the anodizing was not worn off. So I guess for some unknown reason the replacement chassis in the vid gained 0.2mm of material from all that wearing.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:13 PM
  #16371  
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Originally Posted by SEF
Sure, I just quoted that so people can draw their own conclusions.

But after reading PiRo's statement I have a difficult time coming to the conclusion that the two chassis are exactly the same and it doesn't matter which chassis David uses.
I am new to the thread so have not gone through the previous posts. I will take you guys' word for it .

Will be getting the BCE chassis from Bill soon and probably be running it more since the stockers wearing out too fast!
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:25 PM
  #16372  
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I'm sure it is some kind of manufacturing issue that Kyosho cannot disclose, and we'll leave it at that. If you weigh in the fact that K parts have been made in the US sometime back, it makes sense to have 1/8" 7075 alum lying around. Chassis don't require molds so even more likely.
If it doesn't matter for Tebo/King, it won't matter for us. Moving on.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:53 AM
  #16373  
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Originally Posted by BMenard17
So... Should we drill a hole in it?



Sorry I had to
Nah, just case every jump on the track at full bore. It'll "wear in"

Hard to believe this question still comes up weekly.

On the suject of the replacement chassis, I also noticed car had less traction when initally installed (due to slight thickness difference perhaps as said by others). About a gallon later, it felt close to the stock chassis. Looks way cooler though
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:14 PM
  #16374  
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just slapped on the M2C chassis and it is stiffer than the darker, stock K chassis and similar to my MP9e. With extended motor mount on, the stock chassis still flexed more than my MP9e and this m2c.

Last edited by bohdi; 01-25-2014 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:08 PM
  #16375  
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Has anyone tried the aluminum c hubs made in hong kong from ebay? I'm just wondering because there just 21.99. If the geometry is the same, I would think there would be no difference..
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:31 PM
  #16376  
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Guys I would like to know what the differences in spur gears do ?
Like I have a 46 on the car now what would I notice by putting on a 48 ? Need a new spur gear and don't want to buy the wrong one thanks .
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:33 PM
  #16377  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Guys I would like to know what the differences in spur gears do ?
Like I have a 46 on the car now what would I notice by putting on a 48 ? Need a new spur gear and don't want to buy the wrong one thanks .
14/48 will be like going up 1.25 teeth on the clutch bell in drive ratio , a little less torque but more overall speed with a taller gear ratio

13/46 is pretty much the standard for most all track and engine combos
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:50 PM
  #16378  
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So running 13/46 is normal the set up I was using had 13/48 is that to decrease some wheel spin on ruff tracks? And will I still b able to take the triple right after the tight corner ? Sorry for all the question trying to get car ready for the race this weekend .
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:13 PM
  #16379  
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Drove my mp9 on my local track for the first time today. Was going well till i launched it over a set of doubles and misjudged my line and hit the fence right next to the track and did some good damage!
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.

The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.

thanks,
Paul
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:08 PM
  #16380  
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Originally Posted by NitroPaul
Drove my mp9 on my local track for the first time today. Was going well till i launched it over a set of doubles and misjudged my line and hit the fence right next to the track and did some good damage!
I broke both front lower metal suspension holders, snapped a lower arm and bent hing pin. Strangly enough, i didnt break the upper plastic suspension holder.

The car drove pretty good, but i noticed it doesnt corner well without power on!
Not sure if my shocks are setup as well as they should be, as my chassis has almost no anodizing left on the rear half of it, after just two tanks of use on the track. Man it must be soft!
I am using the 1.3X8 hole white pistons and 40wt Front and 35wt Rear shock oil. The rest of the car is as per the instructions. Should i use heavier shock oil to reduce the bottoming out.

thanks,
Paul
the anodizing on the stock chassis wears off really quick that is normal. The chassis should last a while unless you are running on a track that has a lot of rocks or is really abrasive.
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