3LikesMugen MBX6
01-03-2011, 07:46 AM
does anyone know the Mugen equal to losi 40wt and 30wt?
01-03-2011, 07:47 AM
10k in the front will kill some turn in but not too bad. I always like 7-10-7 or 7-10-5. your shock angles are contributing to the steering imbalance too. you might have too many astroturf ideas for car setup, throw them all away for when in the dirt.
My car hardly gets cleaned, but I pull those hingepins always. sometimes between rounds with mud and the like. thats where those m2c suspension blocks help alot.
My car hardly gets cleaned, but I pull those hingepins always. sometimes between rounds with mud and the like. thats where those m2c suspension blocks help alot.
01-03-2011, 10:54 AM
Do you adjust your swaybar with a bit of slop? are your hingepins free? I mean really free where the pin will spin with your fingers with no effort. hinge pin nuts loose? arms have a tick of fore aft play? no tight ball ends? they should be all flippity-floppity with no tight spots.
A mugen that doesn't turn is usually one that has a bind in the suspension somewhere. or is sprung too stiff.
Pillowball adjustment is personal one generally. for me I set my front to have a little more slop then the rear. really the slop is just so dirt has room to get out of the way and not jam those balls up.
A mugen that doesn't turn is usually one that has a bind in the suspension somewhere. or is sprung too stiff.
Pillowball adjustment is personal one generally. for me I set my front to have a little more slop then the rear. really the slop is just so dirt has room to get out of the way and not jam those balls up.
So what you are saying is you don't even use spacers on the front bottom hinge pins against the braces/blocks.
01-03-2011, 01:15 PM
Wow didnt know this. I have always ran everything except the sway bars with zero slop. Pretty much everything is shimmed up just like the way it came when it was a roller.
So what you are saying is you don't even use spacers on the front bottom hinge pins against the braces/blocks.
So what you are saying is you don't even use spacers on the front bottom hinge pins against the braces/blocks.
01-03-2011, 01:40 PM
watch those outer rear hinge pins too. if too snug a-arm can ratchet on the nut and make things too tight and subsequent bind. same as the inners too, you run them loose to prevent any chance for the nut to get turned tighter.
01-03-2011, 02:47 PM
Tech Regular
If you take the shocks off, hold the arm assembly up at full travel and let go, it should drop under its own weight with no sticky spots.
01-03-2011, 03:20 PM
Tech Adept
fuel tubbing?
happy new year everyone
this is a dumb question but i wanted to order some fuel tubbing but dont know what size to order medium-large or in mm
i am going to order a full role and dont want to make a mistake
thank you
john
this is a dumb question but i wanted to order some fuel tubbing but dont know what size to order medium-large or in mm
i am going to order a full role and dont want to make a mistake
thank you
john
01-03-2011, 03:40 PM
Great question
On most buggies the large works great, but on the mugen the fuel nipples, yes I said nipples...are small on the fuel tank...I would get the standard medium size. I don't know the mm size. I hope someone adds to this, great question...I like dubro medium. It comes in a large roll, and great quality...
01-03-2011, 04:13 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I use the venom fuel tubing. it is out side di 5mm and inside 2.5mm on my mugen and works great. Plus 50ft roll only 20.00 on tower part #LXHUL1 hope this helps.
01-03-2011, 04:37 PM
Tech Adept
My 6 will arrive tomorrow.(yes) jus wanted to know if you guy are using alum shock tower or stock carbon one? Also stock or aftermarket clutch?.. Lik the werks one? Thanks
01-03-2011, 04:43 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I would stay with carbon shock towers. I had a problem with diff cases braking if landed wrong.
01-03-2011, 04:54 PM
Younghovaa I run the Alu front shock tower and carbon rear shock tower and have for some time and never had any probs with the front diff case busting. The werks pro clutch is one of the best aftermarket clutchs on the market today. the tune ability of a 4 shoe clutch is a plus too
Last edited by losiracer78; 01-03-2011 at 05:31 PM.
01-03-2011, 05:37 PM
i run the ascendency clutch and love it,and have used the stock towers since ive had the car,i just took and lightly sanded the edges and run a small bead of ca glue around them and havent had any problems
01-03-2011, 06:02 PM
I'm still running the stock carbon shocktowers. I was running a heavy 3750g electric mugen and never broke a carbon shocktower. Nitro is much lighter so I don't see why you should brake one. I have the alu shocktowers in my pitbox because I got them with the car. I bought the car from a guy that bought a full option mbx6 but never finished the build. I bought that full option kit (alu shocks towers, alu front brace, alu upper hinge pin brace, alu hubs) with all the stockparts in the box for 175 bucks brand new 
Best buy ever
Best buy ever
01-03-2011, 06:23 PM
Younghovaa I run the Alu front shock tower and carbon rear shock tower and have for some time and never had any probs with the front diff case busting. The werks pro clutch is one of the best aftermarket clutchs on the market today. the tune ability of a 4 shoe clutch is a plus too
Also I am thinking about getting the Alu Hubs any positives or negatives?