Picco P7 Evo 2
10-25-2007, 07:08 AM
#91
Well im not sure if 30% causes the motor to wear quicker or not. what i do know is that you want about .021-.025 inch of squishwhen you run 30% nitro. put some solder through the glow plug hole and turn the motor over. be sure to not get the solder in a port or anything. just run it up against the side of the sleeve. measure it with some calipers and remove or add shims under the button to get the correct squish.
The other thing i do know is that the more nitro you put into the motor the cooler the motor will run. sounds funny i know but follow this logic:
say you mount up your motor on a Dyno. you first run say 20% fuel through the motor. you tune and achive the best power that you can which registers on the dyno as 2HP. (remember these are just theoretical numbers used for this example.) you also note the temperature the motor was running at when you achived this number. it runs at 250 degrees. A little warm, but acceptible.
Next you run 30% through the motor. This time you tune to achive that same HP number, 2HP. you note the temp and it reads 210. This is because of the extra nitro. it cools your motor.
so in a race tune, you can achive more power with 30% than 20% at the same temp.
as for a plug...im not sure. It sounds like the motor is modified and that can change the charecteristics of the motor significantly many different ways, and each of wich could reqiure a different plug.
The other thing i do know is that the more nitro you put into the motor the cooler the motor will run. sounds funny i know but follow this logic:
say you mount up your motor on a Dyno. you first run say 20% fuel through the motor. you tune and achive the best power that you can which registers on the dyno as 2HP. (remember these are just theoretical numbers used for this example.) you also note the temperature the motor was running at when you achived this number. it runs at 250 degrees. A little warm, but acceptible.
Next you run 30% through the motor. This time you tune to achive that same HP number, 2HP. you note the temp and it reads 210. This is because of the extra nitro. it cools your motor.
so in a race tune, you can achive more power with 30% than 20% at the same temp.
as for a plug...im not sure. It sounds like the motor is modified and that can change the charecteristics of the motor significantly many different ways, and each of wich could reqiure a different plug.
10-25-2007, 04:37 PM
#94
10-25-2007, 05:48 PM
#95
i generaly average a run time of 8-9 minutes on 150 cc tank. buggy a little less. but i have a heavy finger.
i know guys can get 10+ on 150cc though.
as for similaritys differences...not sure about the drake motors...but the Jammin .21 and the evo 2 are very similar. port timing and crank timing are slightly modified and the tolerances from the crank to bearing and piston to sleeve are different. This is what i have been told...havn't acctually measured yet...i will when i go through my motors though....
i know guys can get 10+ on 150cc though.
as for similaritys differences...not sure about the drake motors...but the Jammin .21 and the evo 2 are very similar. port timing and crank timing are slightly modified and the tolerances from the crank to bearing and piston to sleeve are different. This is what i have been told...havn't acctually measured yet...i will when i go through my motors though....
10-25-2007, 08:20 PM
#96
I'm a Novarossi guy but my son wants to try a Picco based motor next year. I was looking for a rod for a Drake motor a guy gave me and they are hard to find. Nitrohouse was the only place I could find one, for around $75 seems kind of steep. Any good places to buy parts?
Rex
Rex
10-25-2007, 10:13 PM
#97
I'm a Novarossi guy but my son wants to try a Picco based motor next year. I was looking for a rod for a Drake motor a guy gave me and they are hard to find. Nitrohouse was the only place I could find one, for around $75 seems kind of steep. Any good places to buy parts?
Rex
Rex
10-26-2007, 06:09 AM
#98
Most of the rods do share the same dimensions, but the difference would be the material and the quality. I do not know about the STS line or the Go-Tech engines nor and I downplaying the others but it has been my experience that usually you would like to keep the origional. All the engines are built with different performance in mind so they are all built a little different. Just my opinion and once again I am in no way down playing the quality of other companies products.
10-26-2007, 07:04 AM
#99
Most of the rods do share the same dimensions, but the difference would be the material and the quality. I do not know about the STS line or the Go-Tech engines nor and I downplaying the others but it has been my experience that usually you would like to keep the origional. All the engines are built with different performance in mind so they are all built a little different. Just my opinion and once again I am in no way down playing the quality of other companies products.
too add insult to injusry OFNA doesnt even know what they are selling...they have the P3 28 listed as a 9 port engine, tech's from Nitrohouse claiming the mill is really a 8 port..... All Ofna's adds are way off..........ofna is concerned about selling motors, but has zero concern for supporting the people who buy these mills.......... IMHO they are represented very poorly by OFNA
Last edited by Maximo; 10-26-2007 at 07:27 AM.
10-26-2007, 08:24 AM
#100
No need for that just come over to the IDM side and I know you will be happy with it. We know the product line and we will make sure that you are taken care of. If it sways you then that is good if not then I am sorry to see you leave. Either way I hope whatever it is works well for you as we are not related to ofna in any way.
10-27-2007, 05:24 AM
#101
angle
yeah this header deal is a good point..does anybody know why they make the exaust port angle down??? and if there is a good reason...then they should make the pipes to fit accordingly.
This is my solution using the JP pipes...Ofna makes the orange header gaskets. they have a big OD on them. i have used them for some time now and havn't had them rip or fail. i just replace them whenever i have the pipe off the motor...which isn't very often. seems to work for me!!
This is my solution using the JP pipes...Ofna makes the orange header gaskets. they have a big OD on them. i have used them for some time now and havn't had them rip or fail. i just replace them whenever i have the pipe off the motor...which isn't very often. seems to work for me!!
I'm sure they angle the exaust port down for performance, but it is a bit of a pain. To get a good fit, you have to twist the connecting exaust tube a bit , to have it pointing upwards.
Maybe they are just trying to get us to use only Picco exausts..has anybody noticed if Picco axausts have the right alignment??
And also , the gaskests I use seem a bit too thin. Do you use the thicker OFN10069 orange colored OFNA gaskets?? Maybe these would make a better fit between my Picco Evo2 and Ofna 053 pipe??
10-27-2007, 05:29 AM
#102
i run a P7 EVo 2 in both a 5T and a 8T.... and never have any issues with headers not fitting... I run alot of different pipes as well..086, 053, JP-2,JP-3, TTR 2035, Mugen FLS 2053........ and every pipe fits without question.. I use the little silicone hose gasket included with the motor and never had any issues whatsoever....... as well pretty much every pipe works good on this mill, my personal favorite is the Mugen 2053 FLS...but the 086 is also deadly on a open track......... pretty much to me this motor doesnt seem overly pipe picky... I am a good tuner though and usualy can find the sweet spot with any pipe motor combo...
I usually run a Picco medium pug (unless it's very hot weather, above 90ºF). When weather starts getting cold, when would you start using a hot plug?? Arround 60ºF and lower??
10-28-2007, 02:56 PM
#103
Yep, I was using a medium plug (Picco #6 and Novarossi C-6) wiht cool weather (65-75ºF) and just could not tune my engine: when I got a good high end, the low end would act up.
and viceversa. Finally, this guy oposite me in the box says: I don't mean to but in, but I think your plug is too cold....I thought medium was ok for this weather, but tried with a SH #3 (closer lo Novarossi C-5= hot) plug I had from last winter....
SHA-ZAAAM
!! The engine transformed. In just a couple rounds of tunning the idle smoothed out, low and high terrific....and temp just where I wanted it!!
10-29-2007, 03:39 AM
#104
I think that the bottom end of the engine was to lean. Was the track dry or wet. And also was the engine laying over on top or loosing bottom end?
10-29-2007, 08:28 AM
#105
I run 2 jammin engines and must admit its superb in qaulity and performance. I am not going to convince anyone to buy it but imo its the best racing engine. It has all the qaulities that any race engine should have.
Its very easy to tune. Holds a tune forever. Has excellent runtime and runs cool and idles low. Its the most consistant engine I have ever owned.
Build quality is second to none.
Its very easy to tune. Holds a tune forever. Has excellent runtime and runs cool and idles low. Its the most consistant engine I have ever owned.
Build quality is second to none.