23LikesKyosho ST-RR
10-19-2017, 10:14 AM - Wikipost
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11-11-2008, 04:00 PM
#211
Anybody ever replace the driveshaft pins when they get wore or do you have to replace the whole driveshaft. Was wondering if the x-ray pins and tool would work?
11-12-2008, 07:02 AM
#212
Derek, I can't recommend any of the engines that you listed because I haven't tried them, although the Novarossi would probably be the best choice. It's been my experience, however, that you get what you pay for. I recommend a .21 engine over a .28 engine because a good .21 has all the power you need and gets much better mileage, so you don't have to pit as often.
11-12-2008, 08:30 AM
#213
Do any of you guys set any drag brake on your truggies? If not, how aggressively do you set your braking...I'm not looking for percentages, just want to know if I should set the brakes to stop the truck quickly or just slow it down a bit. I'm trying to force myself to drive aggressively with brakes, and not just get off the gas and roll through corners. Thanks for your input!!
11-12-2008, 09:23 AM
#214
Tech Adept
Derek, I have ran most of those motors at one time or another, I would suggest the Nova BF. I ran one of those in my truggy in 2006, good motor for the price. I now run the .25 Go engine in my STRR, it is a great motor. If you are thinking about a .21 I would recommend the Go .21 5 port, it has a ton of torque and has great run time. I know those are not on your list, but so far these have been my favorite motors to date and they are not much more expensive.
rcgeezer- I usually have my brakes set at 20/80 or 10/90 depending on the track. 10-20% in the front. The rears are for the most part full lock, and the fronts are barely stopping the truck. I like to make my brakes linear too, not a "sharp" brake.
rcgeezer- I usually have my brakes set at 20/80 or 10/90 depending on the track. 10-20% in the front. The rears are for the most part full lock, and the fronts are barely stopping the truck. I like to make my brakes linear too, not a "sharp" brake.
11-12-2008, 10:39 AM
#215
Tech Initiate
Personally I run my brakes so most of braking is on the front as I never use the rear brake to help with cornering, as long as it doesn't lift the rear wheels when on full brake at the end of the straight, this is how I like it. Although this is very aggresive but is good for overtakes when outbraking on the straight. and if being chased, often ends in the other car overshooting.
I use less front brake if the track is rutted.
I use less front brake if the track is rutted.
11-12-2008, 12:14 PM
#218
What about this or this??
http://nitrocountryrc.com/bnew-engin...tb-p-1504.html
or
http://nitrocountryrc.com/bsts-engin...ob-p-1476.html
http://nitrocountryrc.com/bnew-engin...tb-p-1504.html
or
http://nitrocountryrc.com/bsts-engin...ob-p-1476.html
11-12-2008, 03:54 PM
#220
Kendall,
How do you make them linear and not "sharp"? Is this done by an EPA setting on the controller or otherwise?
How do you make them linear and not "sharp"? Is this done by an EPA setting on the controller or otherwise?
11-12-2008, 07:38 PM
#221
Tech Adept
I set the linkage close to where it is supposed to be to start, so for example: set 50/50 as your bias (good starting point), then sometimes you will notice even when you barely tap the brake it goes from no brake to instant brake. I don't like how that feels, sometimes racers like to use only part of the brake, not the full potential. So just go into your radio and take out some travel under brake. Get them set so full brake isn't achieved until you apply full brake on the trigger, half brake at the half way point, etc.
Hope that helps.
11-12-2008, 07:51 PM
#222
Oh, sorry, I didn't explain that part.
I set the linkage close to where it is supposed to be to start, so for example: set 50/50 as your bias (good starting point), then sometimes you will notice even when you barely tap the brake it goes from no brake to instant brake. I don't like how that feels, sometimes racers like to use only part of the brake, not the full potential. So just go into your radio and take out some travel under brake. Get them set so full brake isn't achieved until you apply full brake on the trigger, half brake at the half way point, etc.
Hope that helps.
I set the linkage close to where it is supposed to be to start, so for example: set 50/50 as your bias (good starting point), then sometimes you will notice even when you barely tap the brake it goes from no brake to instant brake. I don't like how that feels, sometimes racers like to use only part of the brake, not the full potential. So just go into your radio and take out some travel under brake. Get them set so full brake isn't achieved until you apply full brake on the trigger, half brake at the half way point, etc.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
11-12-2008, 10:09 PM
#223
Tech Adept
I think they call it EPA? haha, on my Dx3r radio it just says Travel-Throttle. From what I remember, there are two different adjustments on your radio, one is to adjust how much the servo travels, and the other allows you to adjust how slow or fast the servo works. I am talking about the one that adjusts travel. Sorry, I just don't remember the name of it.
11-13-2008, 03:57 AM
#224
it would be the end point adjustment(epa) you nailed it kendall. there should be one for throttle and brake. it limits the travel in which ever direction you use for brake and throttle. you should also set the epa for your sterring so as not to wear you servo out faster. just set the adjustment till your wheels stop and the servo saver is not engauged! throttle should be set so that your carb is at full open but not pulling motor over. you will see some movement in the head to the side if you have to much throw.
11-13-2008, 08:35 AM
#225
I have the DX3r as well, and I understand setting the end points through the "travel" section. But there is also another setting called "expo" or "exponential" that allows you to set a rate at which the input is applied. When used on the steering it slows it down a bit around the center point to reduce over-reaction. I'm guessing that if applied to the brakes it would also allow one to adjust the ramp-up amount of brakes being applied to avoid the panic-stop characteristics? Do you use the expo Kendall?