whats up with the M1b turbo? seems like 3 maybe four people have it? I just read the complete thread and I am in need of a new buggy for the new year. Very interested in the Turbo but parts seem very very hard to some by. I am here in the states and I guess the American dist. no longer exists? There website won't come up for me? Where do I get parts? thanks

dubdeuce & Megacrash, please see pm

K Factory new LX Shocks for M1B/M1B Turbo:
(also fit MP777/7.5/ST-R, MBX-5, please see product spec.)

http://kfactoryracing.com/SMALL/K%20...K45/K4501S.jpghttp://kfactoryracing.com/SMALL/K%20...K45/K4502S.jpghttp://kfactoryracing.com/SMALL/K%20...K45/K4505S.jpghttp://kfactoryracing.com/SMALL/K%20...K45/K4506S.jpg
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/prolis...10134736-46708
Please do notice that you need the shock towers (K8212, K8213) for some of the shocks.

K Factory HiTower shock tower and LX shocks were used by all three Team Magic Italian M1B Turbo drivers.
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/newsf...5174&pageNum=1
http://teammagic.com.tw/News/M1B%20T...0Nov%20050.jpg

Has anyone tried the KFactory arms (shorter) and what is your opinion?

Just interested if anyone has anymore info on the durability and handling of the M1 Turbo compared to the original.

Thanks

Turbo is a different league when it comes to durability.
Car can take a beating and come back for more.

Handling wise - about the same.

Drew, I'm not that keen on the K-factory shorter arms as I believe they'll make an already twitchy car even worse.

Lycan,

So the rear upper arm mod you've done hasn't made a difference to the loose rear end, how about the new shocks and towers???

Sorry, thought you meant out of the box.

Yes, the mods I've done to the car (thanks to other peoples ideas) means for me, the M1 now drives out of the corners like a normal buggy. I can put the power down out of a corner (and on a loose track) without the rear end snapping.

I think its a combination of several changes to the chassis (shocks, flex, camber links, rear diff, anti-squat, etc) which has resulted in a car thats close to ideal.

The new shocks are a huge improvement for rough track handling. I'm not sure if anyone else has found the same but I could never get the dampening right on the off-set shocks.
I think the springs were probably 70% of the problem but with the new shocks I've changed to Xray springs and they sooooo much more progressive. Big improvement.

Just wondering if you could post some close ups of the mods you've done with descriptions and any other options your running.

Thanks

No worries,

Modifications to my M1 are:

Rear Camber Links
Rear Hub Carrier (3 new holes)
Removed Rear Side Braces
HN Rear Plastic Chassis Brace
21 grams of weight attached to rear of car
Front Hinge Plate used for rear anti-squat
LX Shocks + K-Factory shock towers.

Picture 1: Shows additional 3 holes on rear upright to alter cars roll-center.
Current setup is middle hole.

Picture 2: Traditional camber link. Used hongnor turnbuckle and Kyosho links.

Picture 3: HongNor X1CR chassis brace (K-factory do a similar upgrade too). Removed side braces and used front gearbox in the rear.
Front rear hinge pin brace used on rear gearbox to reduce anti-squat.

U can also see the K-Factory shocks which are a "must have" upgrade.
Just need to fine turn piston holes, oil and spring combo.

And last but not least, 10000wt oil in the rear diff.

Current setup:

Front:
Spring – Xray Dark Blue
Piston - 1.5mm 2 hole
Oil – 35wt (Xray)
Tensioner – 6mm (Clip Type)
Droop - Max
Swaybar - Silver
Diff – 5000wt
Roll centre - Top
Shock Pos. Arm – Outside
Shock Pos. Tower – Hole 3
Ackerman – Standard
Toe - 1 deg out each wheel
Camber Left – 1.5 deg
Camber Right – 1.5 deg
Ride Height – 27mm
Shock length -
Caster - Standard

Rear:
Spring – Xray Dark Blue
Piston - 1.5mm 2 hole
Oil – 30wt (Xray)
Tensioner –13mm (Clip Type)
Droop - Max
Swaybar - Silver
Diff – 10000wt
Inside Camber Link – See Modifications
Outer Camber Link – Middle Bottom
Lower Outside Roll Center - Bottom
Shock Pos. Arm – Outside
Shock Pos Tower – Hole 3
Toe - 3deg
Camber Left – 3deg
Camber Right – 3deg
Ride Height – 28mm
Shock Length –
Anti-Squat – 0 deg
Wheelbase - +4mm

Center:
Diff – 5000wt

Thanks Lycan,

Thanks for your fast reply and pictures, very much appreciated, I'm getting my old M1B's out and going to try a few of the mods for this season.
I going to stick with the low shocks at this moment as I don't want to spend anything on it, or I might try my entire hotbodies rear on it. Anyway thanks again.

Thats great info' Lycan and thanks for the photo's too.
I was curious why you are using 10K oil in the rear diff' ? I would have thought the rear already broke away quick enough on the Turbo?
Also. I see your still running the rear Anti-role bar? Does the car still role alot without this?

Thanks again for the info' and happy new year to you and all on here!!

British Menace

Strangely enough, 10k in the rear of the car works really well. Its almost like the rear off the car pushes the front along under power.

I remember Xray drivers did the same thing on the early XB8 buggies. They found the rear end a little snappy and ran harder diff oil in the rear to combat it.

TMizzle did the same thing to his M1B when they first came out.

Re: Rear swaybar... didnt like how the car handled without it.

at one point i was running 20K ;)
that was a lil extreme