rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

This just happened to myself over the weekend .. Check your exhaust seals.. I ripped one while installing.. made break in unbearable until I found it.. ..

The back deck looks dirtier than the rest of the truck.. maybe some fuel is attracting dirt..

Check tubing for holes even if its new.....


It might just be you have your fuel lines in different places due to you said you were cleaning .. But try to aviod inclines.. especially on tankl. to carb lines..

I was also told try to avoid long pressure tubes.. as it can make things unstable.. usually try to hit somewhere beetween 5-7 in..on the pipe to pressure fitting..

Most of us mount our tubing to be something like this..

Thorin

I will fix the servo horn. I'm running the CEN red Aluminum clutch shoes with the gold springs. I checked them again last night and there aren't an burrs or sharp edges on the shoes.

The back of the chassis is getting lots of dirt and shit on it I think because I am using a bump box, and I have still got the pull start back plate on there. Amain were out of the blank plates. I think because it doesn't have a goos seal at the rear of the engine (hole where the pull start cord used to come out) oil is getting out and dirt is getting stuck to it all.

I will check the new line for holes, but I am fairly certain that it is just too narrow. The new stuff I got is: Team VTX 2.4mm x 6.2mm Silicone Fuel Line. Does anyone know the inner diameter of the CEN stock fuel line?

I managed to chew some teeth off one of the servo gears last night, I have put the gear in a place where it'll work, and adjusted my EPA, but I'll need to get a new gear set or a new servo. My mate has the HiTech 5955 Titanium in his and it steers really fast. Mine is the HiTech 645MG. I'll figure that out when I get to my LHS this morning. If they dont' have parts it'll be a plastic steering servo till I can get the replacement.

Thanks again for all our help.

fuzz86

iTrader: (12)

It sounds to me like the bottom end is too rich and you are over compansating with the top end.
With the engine warm I like to pinch the fuel tube with my fingers at the carb and see how it reacts until it dies-just at idle. If the idle reves up right away and dies in less than 5-7 sec. its too lean. If it runs on and on for more than 15 sec its rich. The idle should stay fairly steady then rev abit before it dies after you pinch it (10-12sec). This is just a guide line I use to get it in the ball park and can be different on different engines. Does anyone else use this method?

I think you need to lean the bottom (cleaner take off) and richen the top (cooler temp). Leveling out the fuel line may be a good Idea as suggested above.

Hope this helps

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

well the gold spring will aloow the engine to rev up higher before it engages and thats why i was asking what spings you were running if you were running black before most likley thats your problem and you need to retune the motor

fuzz86

iTrader: (12)

You may have it there also. Any air leaks around the carb,back plate or front bearing can cause it to run lean as well. you can try putting grease around the starter shaft to try to stop it from sucking in air. This would just be temp. to see if it makes a difference.
Good luck.

Thorin

I was reading about the pinch test last night. I actually stop my engine (as suggested by the manual) by pinching the line to starve it of fuel. I have noticed recently, that when I pinch the line, it revs a fair bit higher (almost to the point of engaging the clutch, not quite, but almost) and it stays running for probably a good count to 10-15.

I will check the seals on the engine side and pipe side of the exhaust. Could the air leak there be causing it to increase in temp?

I am just worried that with such a difference in temp, between what you guys run and what I am getting, that I am causing issues for the engine. I've read heaps, some people say that the synthetic oil doesn't vapourize until about 700 degrees and we can run slightly higher temps. The other thing that concerns me, is that it doesn't seem to matter how rich I make the mixture, its always over temp.

One last thing, earlier on in the engines life, I had an issue where the exhaust seal started sort of.. boiling. The seal between the header and the actual pipe, and after a while it just boiled away and wasn't there anymore. I replaced it back then and I dont think the same thing has happened. Maybe this is more information to my current issues that might help you help me (jerry maguire moment)

Jase

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

its so hard to conclude this with out the truck in front of me

and yes the slightess air leak will cause it to run lean and hot

if you can take the engine out check all the seals and all the bolts and bearings

and run the line that goes to the engine (feed line) like this...

pooldoc

iTrader: (19)

I check for air leaks by removing motor, put a piece of fuel line on on carb fuel inlet, hold finger over carb top and exhaust , then submerge in water and blow in fuel line.
Any air bubbles coming from motor will show you where air leak is. no air bubbles, no leak.
If you see air bubbles you need to seal that particular area, I seal up all areas that possibly leak, carb neck, backplate, fuel nipple, etc. You can buy a sealer at hobby shops for that or get sealer at a auto parts store, I use the stuff that is safe for oxygen sensors.

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

personal thought---i wouldnt put it in water

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

well i thought my BCE chassis wasnt coming for a few weeks but i just found out bills shipping it next week
so thats why i started the project on the cen chassis to do testing while i wait for the bce heres some pics....
truck includes 10/43 diff gears (F/R) center is a 48 K-gear and matrix braces front and rear and CF upper steering brace along with original style radio tray and a few others but i dont wanna spill the beans
and right off the bat i feel the truck is lighter
sorry that some of the pics are bright i cant help that the trucks to shiny for the flash

Thorin

Robert, whats the benefit in losing the stock chassis brace? Looks like you are using the 7075 braces from the buggy.

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

lighter more traction handles better with a little bit more flex lcg
thats how most truggies are mugen losi kyosho and more

RACING MASON

Looks Robert, Next time your in Havasu i need you to spend a day in my shop setting up my truggy.......

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

sounds good id be more than happy to help you out
we might go out in may or april for the eliminator boat regatta

RACING MASON

Eliminator!... BOO.... im a DCB man myself.............
But you can still show me all the tricks i need to be faster......