TripleX-JT

iTrader: (1)

Interesting, I will try to screw them in and see what happens. Thanks for the input.

malik

iTrader: (19)

I am still having clutch shoe issues. In practice ast week I went through the 2 red cen and 1 carbon shoes. An went through a full alum set in the race day. I did very well though 1st in all qualifiers and 2nd in the A only because my inner bell baring along with excessive shoe wear flamed me on thelast 30 seconds of the 25 minute main. I am happy with everything except my clutch I am going to get to the track really early saturday and try to experiment a bit with it. My new mill is insane the pinch finally broke, and people are non stop at my table asking me about it.

C Branch

iTrader: (21)

i run the blue shoes with 1.1 springs. Also make sure you deburr them regularly. I always try to do it right before the main and I replace the bearings at the same time.

Colin

TRArena

that is kinda strange.. i've used both CEN plastic cases (MX036 & MX212) before and they fit like a glove. This is the ring gear you're using yeah?...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2898

and malik, i agree with colin, use the cen blues.... altho, even tho the reds IMHO are a bit of a waste of space they should last a little longer than a practice session... it sounds more like a set up issue than just the shoes... i'd be checking the gear mesh and bell alignment for the following first -

1. you should be able to hold the spur gear and "jiggle" the bell about 0.5mm both ways (kinda sounds like rattle)
2. the bell gear and the spur gear should be parallel
3. you should be able to spin the bell freely with your fingers - if you have to loosen the clutch bell screw to do this then check your shimming between the flywheel collet and the rear clutch bearing and between the front bearing and the clutch nut.

if all else fails then my final check would be to try using one manufacturer's collet, flywheel, shoes, springs and bell.

Mcran

I had the same issue when using Cen diff pinion with the Jammin diffs. They don’t line up exact. I talked with Gene and he said that they are a little off but just screw them in. That’s what I done and it has worked fine for over a year. Since going to the BCE chassis and using the Hot Bodies ring and pinion same deal.

Justin uses the new Cen 1.1 springs and blue shoes in TR and Buggy. Last at least 3 race weekends. Have to deburr them after practice and qualifiers but last a pretty good while.

Yes those are the Jammin plastic steering parts. Takes some modifications but got it to work. I’ve got the newer Jammin plastic steering parts with the adjustment nut on the top but haven’t taken the time to put them on. The new Cen plastic steering parts are stronger and work good with the aluminum top piece from Cen.

Use the Jammin shock post when using the Jammin Super big bores on the TR. Justin used the Jammin Super Big Bore shocks at the nationals but have them on the buggy now.

Cen only has the one alum for the front of the TR. The one for testing we had was for the rear. I will be putting the new set in this weekend so I’ll let everyone know if it fits or not. Should be the same length as the standard dog-bone so it should fit. If I remember correct I did have to use a grinder and cut the Hot Bodies pinion down a few mm to get it to fit correct with a little play, BCE chassis.

malik

iTrader: (19)

I am also running the new alum drive shafts. When I put them in I also installed new cups front and rear and the shafts are wearing I think alittle faster than the old steel ones but I do like the lightness of them. I have never had to change the center dif cups ever and still look new. I am not very happy with the driveshafts and all of the cups except for the center diff ones as I stated earlier. I got the blue drive shafts along with a few other lighter goodies since going to the .21 thinking I needed to but I didnt. Well I am going to try a few different clutch combo's and if none of them dont work I will have to get the Blue shoes and go from there. You guys trimming them before mounting them new or no?

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Small video of my .25 mounted on truggy. Small race this weekend, TQ'ed and leading the race until a marshall busted my truck lol !! its on video !! :

http://www.revver.com/video/1073224/...actions-shots/

hope you enjoy ... im the pink truck ...

cya,

Mcran

I saw that video over on the Sgrid. That would make for a really bad day especially when leading the A-main. I never go out to turn marshal a car when there is on coming racers.

We are using OFNA cups on the front and rear. They are lighter and have really good wear. Our TR with the BCE chassis is much lighter than the stock TR so maybe that’s why we are seeing less wear with the alum blue dog-bones.

I have been using a grinder and cutting the edges on the clutch shoes and getting a good angle on both sides and also in the middle where the spring sits so when they start wearing they don’t hang on the flywheel. You may want to only do this on the side that sits next to the flywheel. With the Jammin silver shoes you don’t need to do this because they last a really long time and don’t burr nearly as much. But I also think they slip more because they are much harder.

malik

iTrader: (19)

Mcran can I get a part # for those cups? And are they for the center or the outdrives? Al you GO tech guys I got an 0801 pipe and header set NIB still sealed for $55 shipped. I am sticking with my 086. They are well over $80 new. Also I have a KOPROPO PDS 2343 FET servo with a new set of gears also the servo is 3 months old had it on steering for my T4 $45 shipped, paid $105.

malik

iTrader: (19)

Mcran can I get a part # for those cups? And are they for the center or the outdrives? I rana set of carbon shoes yesterda and had no bearing failure and they lasted all day. Theonly thing is they dont have that KICK off the line that the Alum shoes have and I was expierencing slipping off the line,saw a purple ring on my CB. I did well anyway 2nd in the A-main and won 2 out of 3 qualifiers. All you GO tech guys I got an 0801 pipe and header set NIB still sealed for $55 shipped. I am sticking with my 086. They are well over $80 new. Also I have a KOPROPO PDS 2343 FET servo with a new set of gears also the servo is 3 months old had it on steering for my T4 $45 shipped, paid $105.

Tree

iTrader: (8)

Hey Malik,

Why are you not using the 0801 pipe? They say that is the pipe to use. Did the 086 feel better to you than the 0801? The reason for all the questions is, I was thinking about getting one of the 0801 pipes and I would just like to hear your feed back. Thanks

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

I am interested in the Part# for those OFNA dog bone diff cups also.

I'm not quite sold on dog bones for my BCE conversion even with the new aluminum bones. Does any one know if the Hot Bodies LSP rear drive shaft will fit the BCE chassis? This is the drive that BCE uses on many of their other chassis systems.

Thanks for the pics Mcran they really showed alot of detail from your conversion.

Mcran

Ofna drive cups (OFN19021)

We are using these on the front and rear diffs. They are lighter than the stock CEN and after 4 months no wear showing. On the center we are using a Jammin diff. Front and rear diffs are stock CEN with the cross pins.

The buggy blue CEN aluminum front dog-bone will work on the TR BCE chassis without any mods. The regular TR dog-bone will work if you cut about 5mm off the back of the Hot Bodies pinion. It would be much easier to just get the buggy dog-bone though.

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

I'm using it on mine, I had to put a bunch of shims on it though to get it far enough into the outdrive, its also gotten really sloppy after only a couple gallons, I have to say I wasn't very impressed with their quality,

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Im using CEN cups all around, no problem on fast wear or anything like that ... and stock shafts (received the blue ones, but not installed yet) ...

cya,