Team Associated 1/8 scale Buggy Info and Tips

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

07-28-2010, 12:08 AM

#8476

RUNNINONMT

Tech Regular

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: YOUR MOMS HOUSE

Posts: 345

Trader Rating: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConciliumDesign

"I like piiigs feeet!"

I wish you was asleep right now. hit you upside the head and make you take out that garbage.

07-28-2010, 06:18 AM

#8477

Brandon Melton

Tech Elite

iTrader: (7)

Join Date: Nov 2003

Location: NC

Posts: 2,506

Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigNasty

ok so here's some bonehead stuff...

I went to put new caster bushings in my car this morning, and I realized i'd had them totally mismatched and apperently i've been doing it for a while. For some reason I thought that when you buy them in the little bag from associated, there were 3 sets of 16 degree... i don't have a matching set of anything.... front 18 back 14, front 18 back 16... and so on. I have the upper link set for 16 degree, so that has remained constant. I've noticed over the last few races that it didn't turn the same way left as it did right. This might be why, cuz everything else about the setup is on the money.

I'm gonna try and find a fresh set of 16 degree inserts at the track tomorrow (the shop is out of them). If the upper link is still in between the 2 cone washers, it's basically a 16 degree setting, with osme binding on the bottom, right?

i just want a set that matches

just because you are using 16 degree inserts doesn't always mean the ball link should be in the middle between the two washers. For example if you run 2 up kickup, this will angle the caster block back and you will most likely need two washers behind the link, if you run 2 down it will be one on each side. The best way to determine is to get the right inserts in there then just lower the uppr link into the caster block and see where it falls ten space accordingly, it's better to put it where it mechanically needs to be rather than where the book says for it to go. Make sense. It should sit right against the front of the caster block with 2up, at least mine always do.

07-28-2010, 03:01 PM

#8478

claymonkey

Tech Adept

Join Date: Oct 2009

Location: Good ole USA

Posts: 208

Trader Rating: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34

I'm having some trouble with the screws and bushings staying tight in the caster block. I've put locktite on them and they still seem to fall out. Anyone else have these issues? On my old rc8 I never had this issues. In fact, they never came loose at all. Whats up with this one?

Thanks
Dylan

Here is what I do and have never had one back out on me since. With the bearings out of the sterring knuckle, I put enough locktite on the threads to coat completly, blow in the holes to remove excess locktite, wipe the excess out of the inside of the knuckle as to not get the locktite in bearings, replace bearings and install the knuckles into the carriers, they will not go anywhere once the locktite dries. Just besure to get the triangle part in the recessed part of the knuclkle and make sure there is enough locktite to cover threads completly. 2 race seasons and not one has come lose at all.

07-28-2010, 07:37 PM

#8479

bevofrancis

Tech Regular

iTrader: (11)

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: southeastern ohio

Posts: 375

Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)

I need some help. I just upgraded the shock pistons to go in my AE big bore shocks. Which way do the shock pistons go on. The flat side up, or the flat side down?

07-28-2010, 07:46 PM

#8480

Quad Racer 34

Tech Elite

iTrader: (4)

Join Date: Mar 2009

Location: OHIO

Posts: 2,973

Trader Rating: 4 (83%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bevofrancis

I need some help. I just upgraded the shock pistons to go in my AE big bore shocks. Which way do the shock pistons go on. The flat side up, or the flat side down?

flat side up

07-28-2010, 07:47 PM

#8481

bevofrancis

Tech Regular

iTrader: (11)

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: southeastern ohio

Posts: 375

Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34

flat side up

Thanks again Quad, your the man.

07-28-2010, 08:07 PM

#8482

BSchorr

R/C Tech Elite Member

iTrader: (101)

Join Date: Jun 2004

Location: Luverne, MN

Posts: 5,055

Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)

Nice RC8B Forsale!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...om-bodies.html

07-28-2010, 08:18 PM

#8483

Quad Racer 34

Tech Elite

iTrader: (4)

Join Date: Mar 2009

Location: OHIO

Posts: 2,973

Trader Rating: 4 (83%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bevofrancis

Thanks again Quad, your the man.

no prob. See ya at the fair race! I can't wait!

07-29-2010, 10:38 AM

#8484

Chris Reilly

Tech Elite

Join Date: Jan 2003

Location: Canada

Posts: 2,443

Trader Rating: 0

Has anyone played with the foam compensator in the RC8B shocks? I remember something about it long ago. How are you guys running them now? Mine are set with 1/2 rebound now.

07-29-2010, 10:42 AM

#8485

JoeyTheRocket

Tech Master

iTrader: (11)

Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: Oswego, IL

Posts: 1,901

Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Reilly

Has anyone played with the foam compensator in the RC8B shocks? I remember something about it long ago. How are you guys running them now? Mine are set with 1/2 rebound now.

1/2 rebound, but I was also cutting the center of the bladders out. Just using the outer edge for an o-ring. This mod made the car more relaxed, almost lazy but not always a bad thing. Just easier for myself to drive....

07-29-2010, 10:58 AM

#8486

SVTHOSER

Tech Addict

iTrader: (44)

Join Date: Mar 2009

Location: Yucca Valley, CALIFORNIA

Posts: 642

Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)

got those servos in yesterday Joey, wow love em, thanks

07-29-2010, 11:17 AM

#8487

JoeyTheRocket

Tech Master

iTrader: (11)

Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: Oswego, IL

Posts: 1,901

Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVTHOSER

got those servos in yesterday Joey, wow love em, thanks

Cool thing bro! Let me know if you need any RC8B parts! I'm gathering my whole stock up for sale soon also....

Last edited by JoeyTheRocket; 07-29-2010 at 12:29 PM.

07-29-2010, 07:53 PM

#8488

Dirtdobber

Tech Adept

iTrader: (9)

Join Date: Jul 2009

Location: Oneonta,AL

Posts: 139

Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)

Fuel Tank

I have the original RC8 and just got back into racing last weekend. I have two fuel tanks that were sent to me last spring (2009) to replace two I had cracked around the lid. My engine tune was changing a lot,but never suspected the tanks because I thought they were "fixed". I started browsing this thread and noticed some are using other brand tanks still. Question is, was the tank issue ever resolved or should I be weary of the replacement tanks and also use one from another car. I got one from an 808 that I used while my AE tanks were being replaced by AE.

07-29-2010, 08:06 PM

#8489

RUNNINONMT

Tech Regular

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: YOUR MOMS HOUSE

Posts: 345

Trader Rating: 0

I personaly have not had any problems yet(knock on wood), and would probably replace it with the d8 tank its what i've heard people doin.

07-29-2010, 08:29 PM

#8490

Dirtdobber

Tech Adept

iTrader: (9)

Join Date: Jul 2009

Location: Oneonta,AL

Posts: 139

Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)

The 808 tank only requires you to enlarge the body hole. I just hate having to hack on my new body and have a large hole at the fuel tank if its not necessary.