Losi 8ight building and setup
#3196
clutch
dont misunderstand... I compliment the clutch design, i just think the button head screws need to be revised.....
#3197
No, I understand. After lok-tite and tightining down I have needed to cut slots in them just too remove them.
#3198
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
GTB -
I work with T&T Hobby in Plano, Tx.
Nice shop with lots of know how in most all areas of racing. I have been around Joe for more than 20 years. This guy was racing 1/8 onroad World caliber since the mid - 70s. I race every week with him now in 1/8th off road.
Fun stuff!
Carl -
Shocks need revising to make them less maint.
Steering servo horn.
Batt box should be bigger.
Better rear outer hinge pins.
Wish I could go to half degree toe measurements w/ different rear uprights.
Fly wheel needs larger surface for starting boxes.
Split center diff mount. Although they have it very tight now...??
This is not a rant. I do love this car! Just seems like I have to run maxed on my settings to get the car right. Who knows what would happen if there were more adjustment available?
Front caster adjustment.
More fine rear toe adjustment.
Refined radio tray with enclosed servo on the throttle.
But hey, that is what R&D is for.
TEX
I work with T&T Hobby in Plano, Tx.
Nice shop with lots of know how in most all areas of racing. I have been around Joe for more than 20 years. This guy was racing 1/8 onroad World caliber since the mid - 70s. I race every week with him now in 1/8th off road.
Fun stuff!
Carl -
Shocks need revising to make them less maint.
Steering servo horn.
Batt box should be bigger.
Better rear outer hinge pins.
Wish I could go to half degree toe measurements w/ different rear uprights.
Fly wheel needs larger surface for starting boxes.
Split center diff mount. Although they have it very tight now...??
This is not a rant. I do love this car! Just seems like I have to run maxed on my settings to get the car right. Who knows what would happen if there were more adjustment available?
Front caster adjustment.
More fine rear toe adjustment.
Refined radio tray with enclosed servo on the throttle.
But hey, that is what R&D is for.
TEX
#3199
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
If you guys are interested....when I install the clutch pin/screws I use one dab of blue locktite, then only tighten them untill they stop with very little force. just a tiny bit more than hand tight. then you can get then back off with out stripping the heads.
#3200
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
I too would love to see a 2 peice center diff mount.
#3201
I have a feeling there's going to be a revised car soon.
i know we were the ultimite test subjects and up to date revision's should follow.
i know we were the ultimite test subjects and up to date revision's should follow.
#3202
Originally Posted by CaseyP
If you guys are interested....when I install the clutch pin/screws I use one dab of blue locktite, then only tighten them untill they stop with very little force. just a tiny bit more than hand tight. then you can get then back off with out stripping the heads.
#3203
Well I had the problem with my flywheel and couldnt get them off for the life of me. We tried to dremel a flathead to get them out. I had to go to LHS and they even tried everything but nothing worked. Obviously they didnt have another flywheel and everywhere is backordered so I was left with the option of not running or buying a Mugen Clutch on a OS .21 RG. So I got the Mugen clutch and put it all together and when I went to line it up on the chassis it wouldnt line up for the hell of me, we used everything and finally got it but the screw holding the clutch was right up against the fuel tank so I didnt want to take the chance of damaging anything with the 8ight flexing and all so I took it off. Oh, I tried each of the 8ight, mugen, and Ofna clutchbells.
So basically I need somebody to please help me make a mugen clutch work a OS .21 RG?
So basically I need somebody to please help me make a mugen clutch work a OS .21 RG?
Last edited by trebor; 04-30-2007 at 07:57 AM.
#3204
Ummmm, I'm using the Mugen clutch right now & it fits fine. Last week I used it with a Losi clutch bell & this weekend I used it with a clutch bell from Robinson racing. Both worked fine on a C6.
#3205
Originally Posted by RBMike
Ummmm, I'm using the Mugen clutch right now & it fits fine. Last week I used it with a Losi clutch bell & this weekend I used it with a clutch bell from Robinson racing. Both worked fine on a C6.
#3206
I am using a Mugen clutch with a Werks engine and a Losi bell. Mine works with little fuss but I could see the need to put a shim behind the collet to space the flywheel farther forward. The Losi specific bell is key, it reaches farther off the front of the engine. It sounds like you may have pushed the engine forward to get a Mugen bell to reach?
#3207
Ummm,
1) I put the Mugen collet, flywheel & clutch on the motor.
2) I put the clutch bell on the clutch.
3) I put the motor in the car.
4) I ran the car.
That's my tricky secret.
Seriously: I used no tricks. I just put it in and it's fine. The only roblem I had was my C6 blew a bunch of teeth off the Losi CB so I got a Robinson Racing CB. I have to say the Robinson racing bell is way beefier than the Losi one.
1) I put the Mugen collet, flywheel & clutch on the motor.
2) I put the clutch bell on the clutch.
3) I put the motor in the car.
4) I ran the car.
That's my tricky secret.
Seriously: I used no tricks. I just put it in and it's fine. The only roblem I had was my C6 blew a bunch of teeth off the Losi CB so I got a Robinson Racing CB. I have to say the Robinson racing bell is way beefier than the Losi one.
#3209
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by R40Victim
So, you used the Losi clutch bell, and NOT the Mugen clutch bell, right? Is that the problem, you have to use a Losi clutch bell?
#3210
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by sport10
This is similar to how I do it and do not have a problem with stripping the hexes on the pins. I use a dab of blue locktite and just screw it down to flush with the clutchbell. DO NOT TORQUE. This way they come out easily and the locktite keeps them from backing out. Works great.