Losi Truggy
#1096
If I was you I check out the 8ight t race roller.
Race Roller $600
OS VG Motor $150 (not a bad motor for a beginners)
2 Servos $225 (can't cheap out on servos)
Radio $150 (get a radio without servos)
Batt. $25
Starter Box 100
Total $1250
RTR 8ight t $700
upgrade servos $225 (stock will not last)
Stock Caps $20 (will bad on the first race)
Stock & Diff Oil $30 (a lot of work cleaning the grease out of the diffs.)
Starter Box $100
Motor Mount $30
Chassie & Stock Towers $150 (upgrade later & about a $100 to upgrade everything else to the race roller)
Total $1255 (it will cost you more money in the long run for the RTR)
The race roller is a better deal. I would save a little longer and get the race roller. I help out a lot of beginners and I been though this a lot with them. Spend the money upfront and you will be happy in the long run. The RTR stands for Ready to Run not Ready to Race.
Race Roller $600
OS VG Motor $150 (not a bad motor for a beginners)
2 Servos $225 (can't cheap out on servos)
Radio $150 (get a radio without servos)
Batt. $25
Starter Box 100
Total $1250
RTR 8ight t $700
upgrade servos $225 (stock will not last)
Stock Caps $20 (will bad on the first race)
Stock & Diff Oil $30 (a lot of work cleaning the grease out of the diffs.)
Starter Box $100
Motor Mount $30
Chassie & Stock Towers $150 (upgrade later & about a $100 to upgrade everything else to the race roller)
Total $1255 (it will cost you more money in the long run for the RTR)
The race roller is a better deal. I would save a little longer and get the race roller. I help out a lot of beginners and I been though this a lot with them. Spend the money upfront and you will be happy in the long run. The RTR stands for Ready to Run not Ready to Race.
#1097
Losi 8 Roller
Looking for a good to decent motor for my Losi 8 t roller. Any suggestions?
#1098
I like the OS V-Spec and for $270 it's a good deal.
#1099
If I was you I check out the 8ight t race roller.
Race Roller $600
OS VG Motor $150 (not a bad motor for a beginners)
2 Servos $225 (can't cheap out on servos)
Radio $150 (get a radio without servos)
Batt. $25
Starter Box 100
Total $1250
RTR 8ight t $700
upgrade servos $225 (stock will not last)
Stock Caps $20 (will bad on the first race)
Stock & Diff Oil $30 (a lot of work cleaning the grease out of the diffs.)
Starter Box $100
Motor Mount $30
Chassie & Stock Towers $150 (upgrade later & about a $100 to upgrade everything else to the race roller)
Total $1255 (it will cost you more money in the long run for the RTR)
The race roller is a better deal. I would save a little longer and get the race roller. I help out a lot of beginners and I been though this a lot with them. Spend the money upfront and you will be happy in the long run. The RTR stands for Ready to Run not Ready to Race.
Race Roller $600
OS VG Motor $150 (not a bad motor for a beginners)
2 Servos $225 (can't cheap out on servos)
Radio $150 (get a radio without servos)
Batt. $25
Starter Box 100
Total $1250
RTR 8ight t $700
upgrade servos $225 (stock will not last)
Stock Caps $20 (will bad on the first race)
Stock & Diff Oil $30 (a lot of work cleaning the grease out of the diffs.)
Starter Box $100
Motor Mount $30
Chassie & Stock Towers $150 (upgrade later & about a $100 to upgrade everything else to the race roller)
Total $1255 (it will cost you more money in the long run for the RTR)
The race roller is a better deal. I would save a little longer and get the race roller. I help out a lot of beginners and I been though this a lot with them. Spend the money upfront and you will be happy in the long run. The RTR stands for Ready to Run not Ready to Race.
I have to agree the race roller is the best option.
If U are in the states buy it frome Amain or Bmain its like 430 usd.
If U are outside the USA buy frome RC Muschroom 400 USD.
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12781
This saves U anothere 170.
If U buy 2x ACE 1015 there like 70 USD a piece.
This saves U like 80 USD
I think U are very close to youre 1000 usd budget
mzl Hellsavage
#1100
alright, just got my new roller, now i need help with servos and motor!
what servos are yall running and would the O.S. Max 21VZ-B V-Spec-T (P) be an alright motor? or any motor suggestions would be great.
thanks in advance for your help!
#1102
thanks for your advice.....
#1103
I have to say. If you pay 100 for the losi box, i just have to say HAHA. its like 70 bucks.
#1104
#1105
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Servos - The high end 9000 and 9100 series JRs are very nice as are the Futabas.
Motor - Small track? Get the OS VG and run it with a JP-2 pipe. Big track get the Sportworks .26 V2 and use the same pipe. You will not be spending a lot of money on these motors and more guys than not have found them to be more than enough on the track. The Losi does not need a lot of motor.
+1 on the Losi box!
TEX
Motor - Small track? Get the OS VG and run it with a JP-2 pipe. Big track get the Sportworks .26 V2 and use the same pipe. You will not be spending a lot of money on these motors and more guys than not have found them to be more than enough on the track. The Losi does not need a lot of motor.
+1 on the Losi box!
TEX
#1106
I've got the Sportwerks .26 V2 and gotta say it can hang with all but the highest end motors and it was only $125.
Matthew
Matthew
#1107
For steering servos get something with a high torque rating, about 200 oz/in or so, more if possible...I'd say keep the transit time around .15 seconds or faster as well. For a throttle/brake servo you don't need quite as much torque, but I think speed is pretty important for throttle response. Something with 125 or more oz/in of torque would be good enough for the brakes, generally a transit time around .10 or faster works good for throttle IMO. Any brand out there has good servos that will work, apparently the Ace servos are great for the money. Hitec also has a good guarantee for their product. JR/Airtronics/Futaba all have servos that will meet the rough specs that I guesstimated for you as well though. I think a lot of people choose their radio gear based on preference or brand loyalty, but the specs speak for themselves as far as I'm concerned and I'll get what works over what brand name or label is stamped on it.
#1110
Tech Regular
Just wondering. Do any of you upgrade any of the 8T's plastic parts into alminium? Is it worth it? If you did, what part did you upgrade and is there is any performance differences? I was thinking of changing the spindles and the brace (upper, front and rear).