Losi Truggy
12-01-2007, 04:22 AM
#826
You mean fuel tube between the brake pads? I tried the small spring idea before but I never noticed and improvement, so I removed them. I'm not for sure what this mod is for. maybe to keep the brake discs from heating up/or reducing any chance of drag? IDK. But glad to see you're well on your way.
12-01-2007, 04:57 AM
#827
Its just to eliminate any drag.
I noticed a big difference when she is on the box. When I turn one wheel by hand she just spins absolutely free from any drag.
Whitout the tubings apy the brakes and let go I turn a wheel and I kept feelling something draging.
2nd advantage is that there can not get any dirt on the bolts so the brake pads stay free to move.
mzl Hellsavage
I noticed a big difference when she is on the box. When I turn one wheel by hand she just spins absolutely free from any drag.
Whitout the tubings apy the brakes and let go I turn a wheel and I kept feelling something draging.
2nd advantage is that there can not get any dirt on the bolts so the brake pads stay free to move.
mzl Hellsavage
12-01-2007, 07:42 PM
#828
Are you guys running the 4 carbons and 4 gold springs on the truggy too? or just the buggy?
12-01-2007, 11:52 PM
#829
12-02-2007, 05:33 AM
#831
12-02-2007, 05:37 AM
#832
12-02-2007, 03:30 PM
#833
has anyone tried the pro line premounted tires on the 8t?
12-02-2007, 06:31 PM
#835
Lot's of people here have been loving the XTT tires. They last a long time and work so well on many tracks/several types of surfaces. The premounts won't be much different than the un-mounted tires. I assume you're referring to the LPR wheels/tires. The LPR tires will be the only Proline tires for me from now on. I'll be using other brands, but from PL the LPR will be the ones to get for this truggy. If I get to a really rutted track I might use MTR tires.
12-02-2007, 08:28 PM
#836
12-02-2007, 10:57 PM
#838
Tech Rookie
So me and a friend are looking to get into Truggies, and after reading up on RTR kits we have found the 8t rtr to be the best out there...
With that being said, after purchase, what are some things we should check/change to eliviate the problems that I keep reading about...(i.e. blowing servos, clutch issues, etc.)
Also what are some upgrades that you guys would advise of to make it more competitive on raceday?
We both race 1/10 nitro on road right now, so we know little about off road, but know about nitro, and rc..
thanks in advance,
Brandon
With that being said, after purchase, what are some things we should check/change to eliviate the problems that I keep reading about...(i.e. blowing servos, clutch issues, etc.)
Also what are some upgrades that you guys would advise of to make it more competitive on raceday?
We both race 1/10 nitro on road right now, so we know little about off road, but know about nitro, and rc..
thanks in advance,
Brandon
12-02-2007, 11:15 PM
#839
Here is a start. I'll be back with more.
Air8,
There are a couple of things you can do to make the vehicle more race bullet proof.
Hope this helps,
TEX
There are a couple of things you can do to make the vehicle more race bullet proof.
- Servos - Only use coreless versions that can be closed by a simple spring or rubber band.
- Use fuel tubing on the throttle linkage to compensate for when the chassis flexes and you are at full throttle.
- Space the servos up and get the rubber ear boots on.
- Take the servo saver and relocktight it after it is set.
- Throw the steering servo horn in the trash and get the Losi alum one.
- Capture the ends of the steering linkage.
- I suggest running the Kings Headz extended motor mount to protect your clutch bell and spur gear.
- Put a peice of thick lexan over the foam in your battery box to make a rigid floor.
- Surround the batt in foam so it wont move.
- Never run solid tabs between the cells on your batteries! They are a failure point. Go with old school braid and shoe goo. The battery will never come apart but it can flex if need be.
- Shoe goo the inserts into your shock tops. Ream out the insert so it rotates freely on the shock mount and apply grease between the mount and insert. Now your shock tops will not wear out.
- Go with the Losi alum servo saver top. The plasic will now wear on the alum as much and you will not have to service it all the time.
- Get a smaller switch than what comes with it. Those big switches go out all the time.
- I do not run switches because of this reason.
Hope this helps,
TEX
12-02-2007, 11:16 PM
#840
Roller to RTR differences
[QUOTE=air8;3752118]For people wanting to know the difference between the Roller and the RTR
[QUOTE=air8;3752118]For people wanting to know the difference between the Roller and the RTR
Does anyone know of a complete list of the differences between the RTR an the pro...
SHOTGUNN----
Aside from the obvious engine, pipe and electronics here is a list. I have not seen the RTR in person so this is going off the differences on the 8 buggy.
shock towers, shock caps, shock shafts, shock pistons, shock springs, shock seal retaining caps (lower caps), hinge pins, hex drives and wheel nuts, chassis, diff grease (instead of diff oil), steering hinge pins, sway bars, engine mounts, clutch bell, and clutch shoes.
Also I assume the body come painted on the RTR.
SHOTGUNN----
Aside from the obvious engine, pipe and electronics here is a list. I have not seen the RTR in person so this is going off the differences on the 8 buggy.
shock towers, shock caps, shock shafts, shock pistons, shock springs, shock seal retaining caps (lower caps), hinge pins, hex drives and wheel nuts, chassis, diff grease (instead of diff oil), steering hinge pins, sway bars, engine mounts, clutch bell, and clutch shoes.
Also I assume the body come painted on the RTR.