6Likes
quick way to free up suspension if needed
#1
quick way to free up suspension if needed
would you recommend wd40 to quickly free up suspension? like between runs or if its been sitting for a while, or dont want to fully strip it down.
as we know, wd40 is pretty magical in freeing things up as a general purpose in other day to day tasks. 3in1 has a garage door lube which
i suspect is wd40
as we know, wd40 is pretty magical in freeing things up as a general purpose in other day to day tasks. 3in1 has a garage door lube which
i suspect is wd40
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
No wet lubricants should be used on exposed moving parts like suspension hinges or CVD joints, they will only attract dust and result in your parts grinding themselves sloppy. A good suspension arm reamer should be used, and if you want to lubricate, try graphite powder.
#3
speaking from a racer perspective captain america hit the nail on the head.
speaking from a general basher who just wants to drive his car. spray away, WD-40, 3in1, Prolong, whatever you've got. you'll break the part before it wears out.
you might also want to try brake clean (or some RC safe cleaner) iv found it penetrates and cleans up any dust and blasts out debris that could be causing the less than desirable suspension movement. and it dry's leaving no residue to collect dirt/dust.
speaking from a general basher who just wants to drive his car. spray away, WD-40, 3in1, Prolong, whatever you've got. you'll break the part before it wears out.
you might also want to try brake clean (or some RC safe cleaner) iv found it penetrates and cleans up any dust and blasts out debris that could be causing the less than desirable suspension movement. and it dry's leaving no residue to collect dirt/dust.
#4
No wet lubricants should be used on exposed moving parts like suspension hinges or CVD joints, they will only attract dust and result in your parts grinding themselves sloppy. A good suspension arm reamer should be used, and if you want to lubricate, try graphite powder.
#5
Tech Apprentice
I inadvertently discovered that Maxima SC1 frees things up a bit. I totally understand not wanting liquid that could attract and hold dirt, but have been using SC1 for years to keep plastics looking healthy. Maybe I imagined it, but when used excessively or directly on drivetrain parts, it seemed to change how the car drove.
#6
Use something very thin that evaporates away, like brake cleaner. It might be worth checking that your hinge pins haven't rusted.
WD40 has a minimal effect on attracting dirt anyway. Just use the straw thingy and wipe off the excess.
WD40 has a minimal effect on attracting dirt anyway. Just use the straw thingy and wipe off the excess.
#7
If your suspension shaft gets stuck by dust, the tolerances are too tight. Use a round file, drill or similar to make the hole larger.
#8
Tech Adept
Alot of people Dont actually realise how important this step of RC Racing is.
You should be reaming Suspension arms etc to ensure you get smooth Operation(reaming also helps clean)
Make sure you get a quality reamer for your size hinge pins, This is where you need to be careful as Cheaply made cars like AE, mayako, TLR etc can be off in their pins from each production run.(this also includes plastic quality as not uncommon to find Extra plastic in the holes.
POLISH YOUR SHAFTS
I've had Some cars have super tight holes in some parts and actual play in the others from new.....
You should be reaming Suspension arms etc to ensure you get smooth Operation(reaming also helps clean)
Make sure you get a quality reamer for your size hinge pins, This is where you need to be careful as Cheaply made cars like AE, mayako, TLR etc can be off in their pins from each production run.(this also includes plastic quality as not uncommon to find Extra plastic in the holes.
POLISH YOUR SHAFTS
I've had Some cars have super tight holes in some parts and actual play in the others from new.....
#9
Alot of people Dont actually realise how important this step of RC Racing is.
You should be reaming Suspension arms etc to ensure you get smooth Operation(reaming also helps clean)
Make sure you get a quality reamer for your size hinge pins, This is where you need to be careful as Cheaply made cars like AE, mayako, TLR etc can be off in their pins from each production run.(this also includes plastic quality as not uncommon to find Extra plastic in the holes.
POLISH YOUR SHAFTS
I've had Some cars have super tight holes in some parts and actual play in the others from new.....
You should be reaming Suspension arms etc to ensure you get smooth Operation(reaming also helps clean)
Make sure you get a quality reamer for your size hinge pins, This is where you need to be careful as Cheaply made cars like AE, mayako, TLR etc can be off in their pins from each production run.(this also includes plastic quality as not uncommon to find Extra plastic in the holes.
POLISH YOUR SHAFTS
I've had Some cars have super tight holes in some parts and actual play in the others from new.....
#10
I like to use WD40 as a degreaser, NOT a lubricator.
I spray down cars with ZEP foaming degreaser, orange can. Then blow with air.
Then spray everything down with FVP silicone spray and blow off again.
Been doing this for years. It's cheap and easy.
I only touch wheel and steering bearings 1 time a year.
Diff bearings get checked often when I service Diff oil throughout the season.
And PINs get serviced when going through diffs. I use to use scotchbrite and silicone spray. Now I polish with a metal polisher and drill. (Nevr Dul or Wizards)
And yes, it takes time. Depends how many runs you make in a season determines how much you need to break your car down.
Clean equals consistency with a side of fast.
Freeing up fast......remove shocks and spray WD40, move arms , blow off. Spray silicone spray, move arms, blow off. Attach shocks, run.
Now the question you need to ask yourself, are you over tightening your pins? Do you get movement by themselves? Or are the pins truly rusted? Or both?
End of the day, no easy fix and go if you want good end results.
Then again, my level of maintenance and cleaning is most likely above yours if your asking the question. Just saying.
I spray down cars with ZEP foaming degreaser, orange can. Then blow with air.
Then spray everything down with FVP silicone spray and blow off again.
Been doing this for years. It's cheap and easy.
I only touch wheel and steering bearings 1 time a year.
Diff bearings get checked often when I service Diff oil throughout the season.
And PINs get serviced when going through diffs. I use to use scotchbrite and silicone spray. Now I polish with a metal polisher and drill. (Nevr Dul or Wizards)
And yes, it takes time. Depends how many runs you make in a season determines how much you need to break your car down.
Clean equals consistency with a side of fast.
Freeing up fast......remove shocks and spray WD40, move arms , blow off. Spray silicone spray, move arms, blow off. Attach shocks, run.
Now the question you need to ask yourself, are you over tightening your pins? Do you get movement by themselves? Or are the pins truly rusted? Or both?
End of the day, no easy fix and go if you want good end results.
Then again, my level of maintenance and cleaning is most likely above yours if your asking the question. Just saying.
Last edited by kruzracing169; 02-11-2024 at 08:04 AM.
#11
I like to use WD40 as a degreaser, NOT a lubricator.
I spray down cars with ZEP foaming degreaser, orange can. Then blow with air.
Then spray everything down with FVP silicone spray and blow off again.
Been doing this for years. It's cheap and easy.
I only touch wheel and steering bearings 1 time a year.
Diff bearings get checked often when I service Diff oil throughout the season.
And PINs get serviced when going through diffs. I use to use scotchbrite and silicone spray. Now I polish with a metal polisher and drill. (Nevr Dul or Wizards)
And yes, it takes time. Depends how many runs you make in a season determines how much you need to break your car down.
Clean equals consistency with a side of fast.
Freeing up fast......remove shocks and spray WD40, move arms , blow off. Spray silicone spray, move arms, blow off. Attach shocks, run.
Now the question you need to ask yourself, are you over tightening your pins? Do you get movement by themselves? Or are the pins truly rusted? Or both?
End of the day, no easy fix and go if you want good end results.
Then again, my level of maintenance and cleaning is most likely above yours if your asking the question. Just saying.
I spray down cars with ZEP foaming degreaser, orange can. Then blow with air.
Then spray everything down with FVP silicone spray and blow off again.
Been doing this for years. It's cheap and easy.
I only touch wheel and steering bearings 1 time a year.
Diff bearings get checked often when I service Diff oil throughout the season.
And PINs get serviced when going through diffs. I use to use scotchbrite and silicone spray. Now I polish with a metal polisher and drill. (Nevr Dul or Wizards)
And yes, it takes time. Depends how many runs you make in a season determines how much you need to break your car down.
Clean equals consistency with a side of fast.
Freeing up fast......remove shocks and spray WD40, move arms , blow off. Spray silicone spray, move arms, blow off. Attach shocks, run.
Now the question you need to ask yourself, are you over tightening your pins? Do you get movement by themselves? Or are the pins truly rusted? Or both?
End of the day, no easy fix and go if you want good end results.
Then again, my level of maintenance and cleaning is most likely above yours if your asking the question. Just saying.
#12
It also helps where you run you car. Running in a track is less agressive with the car than bashing.