I think the topicstarter just want to know non RC brands, because RC brands just buy 20 liter cans, put it in a small bottles and sell it for 20 times the price it normally costs.

Mobile 1 synthetic grease is a great all purpose grease.

I agree, RC companies are not producing their own grease products at all. Goto your local auto parts store and buy a huge tub of it for a similar price.

I can second this, specifically the lithium white grease. My rings and pinions/ trans still look good.

You can spend alot money, if you buy Sponsor Brands. Smal expensive bottles.
Or you can buy the same stuff cheap if you know what to look after.

i use Marine Grease in outer diff gear rings and also in bearings , extra good in bashers and crawlers.
No leaks, and bearings last 3-4x longer than oiled. I pack the bearings with alot Marine Grease. Like 90% packed, normally they are about 10-15% packed with grease. Too little if you bash in wet conditions
or like to Mudding, and cross smal rivers with Crawlers.

For indoor racing i would use full synthetic 2stroke oil in bearings. 1 quart about 10$ you just need a medical-syringe
this is what Speed Bearing Oils are. Just rebranded smal expensive bottles.

In my Current Speedrunners 100mph+ rigs i use my own special blend. Tiny amount Marine Grease and 2drops synthetic 2stroke oil.
Im very happy. If i would do outside offroad racing today, i would use the same in these rigs, like in my Speedrunners. my own Special mix , a litte amount of both, marine-grease+oil

Al these stuff you can find at Wallmart

Inside diffs i use RC Car Silicone oils.
i have more than 10 different RC Cars in use. 1/10 , 1/8 , 1/7 , 1/6 , 1/5 scale rigs, so I need alot different differential oil ratios/weights
So i buy the big bottles that are at sales.
60-100ml

Last time couple months ago i did buy 10 different weight of 100% racing silicone oil , each bottle 100ml , at half the price off 59ml team ass/lucas oil.

This is what i do, because i have many different rigs that i bash alot.

If i only had 1-2 cars, and did racing/club driving with one class 1-2 times week, i would just buy the Sponsor expensive stuff from Local Hobby shop, to support like i did long time ago.

In my speedrunners i clean and change liquids every 5 runs, about 1 full pack , about 5minutes drivetime
very often

Bashers every 10 packs, about 60-100min runtime

Crawlers only by season, 1x spring/summer , and 1x autumn/winter MANY hours driving. Minium 15-20h

I love Marine Silicone, this stuff is made for the most extreme conditions you can have, salt , water conditions, with high RPMs.

I also have another secret for crawlers and bashers
spray all your electronic stuff with CorroX HD special oil spray.
You can run under water , totally soaked, no issues with ESC,s receivers or what ever.

www.corrosionx.com&atb=v370-3ua]https://www.corrosionx.com › products › corrosionx-heavy-duty

CorrosionX Heavy Duty - Corrosion Technologies

CorrosionX Heavy Duty is dripless and resists displacement or removal by splash, rain, seawater or even pressure washing. It is ideal for long-term protection against serious rust and corrosion assault and in situations where the surface being protected is exposed directly to the elements.

This is Marine spray on Steroids = pretty expensive also. Anyways one spray can last long, to many Receivers and ESCs and connectors. ( all electrical stuff )

• Forms a dripless, dynamic, non-hardening, self-healing film that stubbornly resists erosion by splash or spray - including complete submersion in saltwater.
• Seals out moisture
• Unlike wax coatings, it will not dry out, stiffen or crack under stress
• Kills corrosion and keeps it from returning
• Safe on electronics

or you can also do Silicone Conformal Coating , only at ESC and Receiver, not pins or connectors