Payton 34

iTrader: (4)

I just started my build on my new MP10 TKI 2. Over the years I have built probably 30 Kyosho MP series nitro buggies. Starting with the Turbo Burns, MP5, MP6, MP6 Int, MP7, MP777, MP9 TKI 1,2,3 etc. In every kit there was always one thick and one thin diff shim to use in the bulk heads to get the proper gear mesh. I never had one kit use different combinations of shims to achieve proper gear mesh. It was always one thick and one thin shim, opposite the ring gear for each front and rear diff.

The MP10 TKI2 gives you 6 thin shims in the kit. I have tried using just one, two or all three thin shims and the gear mesh sounds awful and feels notchy. When ever I have built all the previous kits the mesh was smooth and quiet before even being run and broken in.

Kind of disappointing.

Is this the new normal for Kyosho?

What is the typical number of shims you use to get the best diff gear mesh?

What side of the diff do you typically put the shims on?

Thanks

RCDaddy2105

Not to worry, I had the same experience when I built mine. And just like you I posted on here what to do thinking something was wrong etc.
tight tolerance- just needs to break in a bit. I installed 2 shims per diff on the opposite of the ring gear and ran it in the track for a few packs. It was way more free and quieter after that first run. So I then removed 1 shim per diff, was a little tight again- but this time I raced the car for the first time. After that, totally free spinning. I’ve raced several times and practiced a bunch since then, will probably be removing the last shims before the next race.
they just need to break in, put a small amount of white lithium grease in the ring and pinion and run it. After it runs in it’ll be the smoothest drivetrain you’ve ever seen!

Payton 34

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your help;. It is reassuring to hear. I ended up with one shim for the front diff and two shims for the rear. All shims placed opposite the ring gear. The front diff feels a bit smoother than the rear but both are better. Thanks again!

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

run the car a few tanks and the diffs will break in just fine. adjust shims from side to side as needed to maintain the correct backlash..

Payton 34

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. I can't wait to see how smooth this drive train will be.

I bought replacement shock towers because I wanted the hard anodizing. I thought the chassis that came with the kit was the optional hard anodized one. It is a similar color to the Kyosho's hard anodized shock towers but I can tell it is slightly different. The anodizing does not appear to be the same quality.

Is the replacement chassis in fact a different better quality anodizing than what you get in the kit?

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

the part nuimber is different so i assume there is a difference in something.. assuming its the coating or the aluminum its self for a greater longevity

Payton 34

iTrader: (4)

Where do you see a part # for an optional chassis? I looked at both the MP10 TKI 1 & 2 manual. Neither manual shows any optional chassis. Just the stock one part # IF601.

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

guess they are the same somewhere i read the tki2 was suppose to have a different chassis coating but i guess that never happened. i think it was on a fakebook post about the new kit. so ya the if601 is the normal chassis for both. i thought the download on the tki2 had a different chassis but i guess i looked at the wrong number. old guys and vision .. lol.. sorry for the confusion.

Payton 34

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I got to say the quality of the chassis is not like I remembered how the MP9 hard anodized chassis were. The MP10 chassis seems very soft and flexi. The anodizing does not look very durable at all. Even the machining looks a bit subpar compared to my stock Associated B6.3 chassis. My friend has an Associated RC8B3.2. His chassis just seems like it has better machining and anodizing. I am not worried about it. I am sure it will be fine.

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

So I have been testing mp9 c and d blocks on my mp10tki2 absolutely dialed on a low to med grip ....I drilled the mp9 inserts for the bigger suspension pin, shorter drive shafts (I think mp9) and added rear +1mm hubs ......I'm not saying anything is wrong with the mp10 if the track has decent traction I absolutely love the car but med to loose I was losing drive out of the corners and noticed that the AE guys and the Mugen guys were running LRC or at least narrowed rear pivot blocks, so that's where I got the idea . if you want to add another tuning option to your set up I can say it works and works really well on med to loose tracks I reached out to tworks and suggested the make narrow pivot blocks for the mp10 so hopefully maybe they'll look into it .... I let buggy brent (YouTuber) drive my car also so you all can reach out to him if you like and ask him his thoughts

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

💯

Team_Orange

iTrader: (20)

Thx for the info!! My teammate and good friend were just talking about trying this next summer when we can race outdoors again. I agree with what you are saying

MP10rocks

As you say, all cars with a narrow pivot c/d blocks have a better rear end grip. I have tested this on alot of cars.

Some people think its the arm length but:
The Mp9 has quite short rear arms and good rear end grip, so, its not the arm length that gives grip but it is how the rollcenter changes when you move to a narrow pivot rear end

Holymoly

Hello all,
someone changed back to the old gearing? 43/13! Read that some Euro driver changed back to 43/13.

2fst4u67

iTrader: (3)

Would anyone have, or know of an info base, that has a definitive backwards compatible parts list of the MP10 Tki2 to MP9 Tki4?

With a new year just around the corner and work-life changes ahead, it looks like I'm going to be able to pick up racing again 🥳

I sold off my #1 car, but hung onto #2 (spare) car which is still pretty much mint and so I'm looking for a replacement for #1. Having a really solid amount of spares left and finding a new-in-the-box Tki4 kit is a mission that the IMF couldn't complete, this leaves me looking at the MP10 Tki2. Or maybe looking at another platform altogether as the second car, which I'm reluctant to do, as I've been with Kyosho from the start. So knowing exactly what's interchangeable between the two, would be great from a practical point of view, as well as defining a budget on two separate spares boxes.