MIP Bypass1 pistons for 1/8th scale
 

MIP released their Bypass1 pistons a while ago for Mugen and Associated, but since a few weeks they are also available for other brands.
I'm interested in them, but they are pretty expensive over here, so I'd like to hear some reviews before I buy a set.

Please let us know how they changed the car for you. Thanks!

It doesn't matter what style of shocks you use. They are normal pistons, but when the are moving out (rebound) the valve opens and it allows for faster rebound.
So basically you tune the compression ratio as you used to with shock oils and with the valves, you can speed up the rebound. This should give you a more responsive car with more grip in theory, but that's just theory.
I wonder what the experiences are of people that tried them in their cars.

I'm running these on a large outdoor very rutted track, and have noticed an increase of consistency in my lap times, and increased traction. They also help the car spring off the jumps a bit better. I think people are running them, but not wanting to expose the edge they give them. lol. I ran them on a smooth track, at a bigger race, and actually gained too much traction. I had to run tires that didnt hook up as well to free the car up in corners. Locally, I've TQ'd, and lapped the field with the setup posted below, results do matter to me. Cheers!

Front:
6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running BLUE washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 600 CST Hudy oil

Rear:
6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running GREEN washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 500 CST Hudy oil

These sound similar to the VRP pistons. I wonder how they compare in practice.

That's maybe one of the reasons why they aren't popular in Europe.
We have a lot of high speed tracks with good grip or multisurface tracks (with super high grip astro in it). I think the slower rebound of the stock pistons calm down the car and make it easier to drive in these conditions.
While the MIP pistons are probably good on low traction or blown out tracks.

Start with the size of holes and oils as in your normal shock setup is the recommendation from Adam Drake. He runs the clear valve in the front and blue in rear as a base setup.
And blue in the front/green in the rear if it's really blown out or loose.

Depends on your car as they make setupsfor different models. Run them with the same shock package you have now. We run blue front, green rear on the TLR.

Went to my local track, low bite clay track. Weather was nice and sunny which allowed the track to dry perfectly. Later clouds took over, humidity went up the roof and the track changed.

Grabbed the SRX8e with stock setup and 600CST 5 piston blue spring front and 500CST 5 piston pink spring rear. Slapped some Pro-Line Bow-Tie SS and turned some laps. Fastest I managed was a 27.4s, this was at around 12pm.

It was time to put the new shocks with the MIP bypass1 pistons. I built them with 600CST blue valve for front and 500CST green valve for rear. Same ride height as before 26mm front and 27mm rear and same tires again. Essentially everything was the same except the shock swap.

Unfortunately, by 2pm cloud overcast and it got very humid causing the track to be very heavy and loamy. Either way, I had to try it. Well fastest was 27.5s but the car was much better absorbing bumps, landing after a jump. Either way, I know that I could have been quicker probably, i just could not get the car moving as it felt heavy.

Will test more again next weekend as long as the weather cooperates. I did like the way how the car moved across the track absorbing all the bumps and holes in its path.

Glad to see you didn't run 500/300... that's one wacky setup :smile:

So much rain
 

I won a set of them on Facebook, was planning on testing them this past weekend but with all the rain I didn't get to run. Tomorrow and Wednesday after work I plan on testing for several hours both day's so only time will tell. I just installed the M2C o-ring pistons and haven't tested those either so should be fun tomorrow and Wednesday. I will be keeping a ton of notes.

This is exactly what I felt the first time I ran them, I describe that is "too easy to drive" or "feels slower", but I forced myself to race them anyway. In almost every race I had less major mistakes, resulting in more consistency, not more speed. In one club race, the car became so easy to drive, and "slow", that I lapped the field in 7 minutes, and never once went off track. So i'm struggling with the fact that it feels slower, but its actually faster on our large and super rutted outdoor track. It just doesn't seem right. lol.

Edit for after thought,... I forgot to mention that later on when I went one step up in hardness on my tires, it free'd the car back up for better rotation in corners. I went from soft long wear AKA compound to medium compound and she took off again. The harder compound tire also stayed more consistent, again increasing constancy.

I don't know the Hudy/Losi conversion, but dont they offer a CST rating on the bottle now? I'd match them up, I think CST is a standard measurement regardless of brand. Maybe someone else can chime in.

I run Xray 2019 stock (clear waffle) bladders, but I am currently testing the new harder compound (RED waffle) Xray bladders. Not enough data/results to recommend.

Which ones are you guys going with? I want to try the 6 hole pistons, but the AE version comes with 8 hole pistons, leaning towards just getting the Mugen set for my AE car.

I found the 6 hole set I ordered, and am running in the Xray 2019 XB8.

Part# FPR18400

https://www.amainhobbies.com/flash-p...00/p961498?r=0

Also my 600 and 500 CST is using the PT RC Racing oils.

Just ordered the same part.

Ok I'm installing these and the MIP pistons are dragging in the shock bodies. The Kyosho and AE pistions I've ran previously don't drag at all. Same problem with 2 separate shock bodies.

Anyone else had this issue? I'm about to get some 1500 grit sandpaper and fit them by hand but this seems a little annoying for a $40 set of shock pistons.

I received my set earlier this week and I installed them yesterday. They are perfect fit in my Mugen shocks.
These pistons are 15.9mm diameter, so it's a close fit. If the shock body is dry, it's normal that they drag a bit. It's same with my stock Mugen pistons. But once you fill up with oil, it should move smoothly.

Ok I am good now. I loosened the nut holding the piston a bit, and the shocks feel great. Lesson learned - just lightly snug the nuts that hold the pistons.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...45e8ce96d4.png

You are awesome!!!!!

All good but $26 for 4 pistons is a bit much to be honest.

Eustace is proud of his shit. :)

Anyone else notice the plastic insert "wrinkle" when you tighten the nut to hold the piston in?

The piston is installed correctly... and it's not over tightened...

Since there are no pictures to show how the pistons are installed and how the valves are wrinkled, I can only tell from my own experience that the installation instructions that come with the pistons are not very clear, and I installed the pistons upside down for the first time and was wondering why the valves got all wrinkled. Then I watched the instruction and videos from MIP web page again and noticed that the flat side should be facing up, not the side with "MIP" text, after that the valves were nicely flat. As said, I don't know if this is what happened in your case, but worth checking one more time