There is a series I am thinking of trying to attend and race on a regular basis. However last time I did nitro didn't go well. Like Ike and Tina, and I wasn't Ike.

Just some background for the last time I did this, I picked up the gear that someone recommended who I felt was knowledgeable about engines (he was O.S. Sponsored I believe at the time) brand new.

Did break-in as instructed, maintenance as instructed, the whole show. When it came time to have run for racing, it promptly up and died till the main I was in ended. At that point I sold it all thinking well maybe its not for me since I had been fighting with it. A person knowledgeable in nitro bought it and said all was well, fired right up. He then let me know 2 weeks later engine was dead and said nope, no issue on my part, it just up and died.

Anyway, that and in addition to seeing people regularly do the nitro wind sprints to get flamed out vehicles (excellent drivers here, skills that are amazing) wasn't something that made me feel confident to grab another. I mean, if they are having issues, what chance did I have?

Anyway I got my fix in 1/8 by being one of the first in the area to do an electric conversion. Now, it seems that the E-buggy thing has really grown.

Does it have the same feel as a nitro race? Nope. I think the factor to me on that is the noise and people watching the racing action can relate to that. IMHO, People like to hear engines revving, etc. Personally when traxxas made that speaker thing I was curious to see an actual full on race with the sounds and see how it went.

Anyway, back to current times, I am personally looking more into a nitro 1/8 buggy and maybe 1/8 truggy for a race series. Some things I have to factor in:

- I don't have a local track that runs nitro, closest is probably 2 hrs away
- I don't have someone who I can have help me with nitro in a consistent manner that I would feel comfortable asking
- My nitro knowledge is very minimal, I can fuel a vehicle but tuning by ear is all new to me. But I can retain what I am taught.
- I need something that can reliably start, period. Doesn't have to be the fastest thing in the world, but need reliability.


Anyway, that is where I am at. I am open to any suggestions, etc as far as actual gear to use in the vehicles that are nitro specific (I have servos for instance, charger that can do nitro batteries, etc). But things like reliable engines, clutches, batteries for the receiver, fuel, etc. I need info on.

So feel free to make suggestions, going full sponge here lol. Also, it probably doesn't matter but just in case it does, I am looking at Tekno vehicles as my platform of choice at this time.

Cain maybe a facetime buddy who know Nitros can help you out in your tune and more just a idea..maybe?

I say go for it. Don't be afraid to give it another go. The most hardest thing for nitro is learning how to tune a nitro engine. Read up on it, look up YouTube vids and of course the more time with it, the more you will start to feel comfortable.

I would see if you can "bash" (more like practice) in a field near your house or a baseball field, or anywhere with dirt really. If you can't get some on road tires and hit a parking lot. Practice tuning. Different days, different conditions. Do this before driving 2 hours to a track and then getting frustrated all over again because the tuning is off. Its heck of a lot easier to do it closer to home than in front of everyone the first few times.

With enough practice, you will be able to tune by sound and feel. Yes, it will take a while, but you will get the handle on it.

Im trying electric for the first time. Started nitro many years ago but always was curious about the e-cars. So I'm taking the same plunge as you, just backwards lol.

Good luck and happy tuning!

*These 4 paragraphs have been removed*

Dude, really? Lol. J/K. We are here to help. Nitro has its ups and downs but as you know it is and will be the dominant class locally. Keith has a new built Tekno 48.4, is a Tekno dealer and can get you setup with an engine. You really need nitro in your life. Seriously. We can help!

Nitro is where it's at. Nothing beats the sounds of engines revving. The smell of burned exhaust. E-buggy just doesn't come close; it's like watching an action movie on mute.

OS does make the best engines IMO. However, I wouldn't start off with a brand new OS Speed to get back into nitro racing. Find something in the FS thread here. Something you won't be upset with if it blows up.

I recommend watching the JQ RTR engine break-in video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UrtP8eyNP4

It takes a while to develop an ear for engine tuning.

Be careful to avoid trying to tune away a mechanical problem.

As someone who has recently made the same jump, I can only tell you that it's a lot of fun. More than ebuggy imo buuuut you need more time. With an ebuggy, I was at the track at 10am and on the track at 10:10. With Nitro, it's probably 10:45 until I'm up and running. Fill the bottle, fill the tank, connect the starter box battery, connect the receiver battery, fill the tank, let the engine pre heat, prime the engine, start the engine, make sure the tune is still correct and so on and so forth.

Also, don't cheap out on nitro equipment. Getting started is expensive and it's about $1500 all in if you go new. Obviously less if you go used. This included all the tools and bits you need.

I would suggest to go with the nitro version of whatever ebuggy you have now so you'll have familiarity.

Engine: Novarossi or OS. Both are easy to tune and lots of people have experience. I love Reds but they are more finicky to get right.

Another reason to get a nitro is, if you have a close local track, you can pack a pit bag and hit the track for an hour straight and burn a quart of fuel. No interruptions to charge or change batteries. Electric practice is more charging and swapping batteries than track time.

Thanks everyone for the info!


Lol, if I lived up there it would make the choice significantly easier that's for sure. Locally though since we don't run nitro, it would definitely be something I would need to work on at the house and get it up and going. I am thinking right now for races up there if I go through with this, to start with a 1/8 Nitro Buggy, run same brand 1/8 E-Buggy, and maybe for some 1/10 action some 1/10 4wd E buggy. Running 13.5 out there I had a blast.

As it sits, i think the big thing I need for info will be what exactly I need to
get. Gathering a list here, this is what I have some far that is nitro specific:

- Receiver pack (LiFE or LiPO, cutoff for packs?)
- .21 Engine
- Pipe
- Spare Air Filters
- Screw driver to adjust engine settings
- Air Filter Oil
- Starter Box
- Glow Ignitor
- Fuel bottle with cap that is attached
- Fuel Line
- Fuel Filter(s) (not sure how many?)
- Fuel (what percentage is good for 1/8 usage)
- Clutch Bell(s) (not sure how many are good to get)
- Clutch Shoes
- Clutch Springs
- Sealant for the carb? (I dont' recall all specifics on this, its what I have heard in the past)
- After-run oil


Is there anything else I am missing that either is required or can be useful?

From there once I got the generalities out of the way, I want to start getting into specifics. Again, focus will be on stuff that offers a reliable start and easy tune. I can look into power later. Won't make a difference if I am "That Guy" always flamed out watching from the outside in

- Receiver pack (LiFE or LiPO, cutoff for packs?) - LiPo is just fine.
- .21 Engine - Yes
- Pipe - +Manifold & Springs, ideally, you buy a combo to start with.
- Spare Air Filters - Buy Protek Pre-Oiled Filters. Work well and they aren't expensive.
- Screw driver to adjust engine settings - A regular flat head 3mm or 4mm will do
- Air Filter Oil - See above
- Starter Box - Yes, buy the Mugen or the Protek or the Modded Ofna box from LutzRC (Ryan Lutz)
- Glow Ignitor - Yes, buy the large one so you don't have to charge it every time.
- Fuel bottle with cap that is attached - Yes
- Fuel Line - Usually comes with the Kit. The Kyosho line is by far the best IMO if you need to buy extra.
- Fuel Filter(s) (not sure how many?) - Comes with the kit
- Fuel (what percentage is good for 1/8 usage) - Choose whats available at your track. Usually Byrons is carried by most shops. 25% or 30% is good.
- Clutch Bell(s) (not sure how many are good to get) - usually comes with the kit. If not, 13T or 14t will do the trick
- Clutch Shoes - Save yourself a LOT of headache and buy the REDS Quattro Clutch. Everything is pre-setup and its the longest lasting clutch on the market.
- Clutch Springs - see above
- Sealant for the carb? (I dont' recall all specifics on this, its what I have heard in the past) - Not really needed. Temperature resistant silicone.
- After-run oil - Novarossi Oil seems universially liked. A lot of people dont oil their engines and they seem to do just fine.

Rule number 1. Never buy a used nitro engine unless you know the person and how they maintain their equipment. This will save you the biggest headache. If you buy new, you know what you did to the engine.

Air filters: We change them every race day. Getting any dirt in an engine is not good for it. This not only prevents that but also keeps the tune consistent. If you leave it on there and let dirt build, it will affect the tune.

Clutch bearings: If you like changing them every day buy the cheap ones. If you don't buy the tko special clutch bearings.

Clutch shoes and springs: We change them every 2 race weekends. If you are running shoes for gallons of fuel, then you are giving up time coming out of the corners on waiting for your shoes to engage. Yes, it does add up and affects traction of the car.

Glow plugs: Our temps vary from spring to summer and fall. Spring and fall we will run a hotter plug and summer we go to a colder one due to higher humidity and temps. This allow us to not touch the carb needles so much.

Thanks for the info. So right now I have the following for specifics based on that info that I am looking at:

- Receiver pack (LiFE or LiPO, cutoff for packs?)

* PTK-4060 - Protek Lipo Cutoff Switch

- .21 Engine, Pipe / Manifold, Glow Plugs

* Novarossi .21 Paloma Limited Edition, 51013 / EFRA 3005 Pipe, MANIFOLD #41020, Glowplug: Turbo (C6TGC)

* Novarossi S21P5XLT 5 Port .21, 51013 / EFRA 3005 Pipe, MANIFOLD #41020, Glowplug: Turbo (C6TGC)

NOTE: confirm at the tracks what are common temperature plugs to have on hand

- Spare Air Filters

* Protek Dust Buster 2 Airfilter foam

- Screw driver to adjust engine settings
* on hand

- Air Filter Oil
* Dynamite Air Filter Oil (on hand already)

- Starter Box

* Lutz Modded Ofna Box
* Protek Starter Box

- Glow Ignitor

* Great Planes Long ProGlo Starter w/Meter & Charger

- Fuel bottle with cap that is attached

* Serpent Fuel Bottle (500cc)
* HPI Racing 500cc Fuel Bottle

- Fuel Line

* Kyosho as needed

- Fuel Filter(s) (not sure how many?)

* included with kit

- Fuel (what percentage is good for 1/8 usage)

* check local, Byrons 25% probably

- Clutch Bell(s) (not sure how many are good to get)

* Comes with kit, check if vehicle has sufficient one included

- Clutch Shoes and Springs

* REDS Clutch setup, confirm size relative to vehicle being used

- Sealant for the carb

Temperature resistant Silicone

- After-run oil

* Great Planes Afterrun Oil


Few questions:

- What if anything are people using for voltage cutoff devices for the receiver and bump box batteries?

- Is it common for fuel bottles to not have the cover secured in any way so it doesn't get lost?

- Does the REDS clutch include the various combinations of shoes they mention on amain? If not, what should I get as spare shoes? Also, is it common to buy spare bearings for this? (sorry, don't know how all this works)

Looks good. You will need a glow plug wrench as well. The OS one is very good.
You should carry spare bearings for the clutch bell, yes.

If you are looking for ultimate value in a buggy, the Serpent SRX8 Evo seems hard to beat right now.

Choose another brand lipo cutoff switch. The material covering the switch on the protek breaks through real easy. We have been through three of them. We are now using the KO one and Xpert ones and they have been fine. For fuel bottles I recommend one that is easy to squeeze and you probably will want to look into a fuel gun.

thanks! I'll give that a look, I think I have a wrench here though floating in a pit box looking for a home lol.

for clutch bearings assuming the protek ones listed are okay to use or is a certain one that is the best?

For vehicles, looking used for the buggy at least, ROSCOE had some sworkz stuff that looked good so considering that based on some deals I am seeing, in addition to Tekno's NB48.4 . But will keep all options on the table.