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Electric guy who may try nitro again, advice?

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Electric guy who may try nitro again, advice?

Old 12-29-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by NitroVein
+1
I'm not sure on other radios, but my Sanwa has Low voltage fail safe that works great with Li-Fe (at least).

Mechanical switches is nothing but problem, reduces performance of the servos, and can shut them self off if you crash.
Been there, done that, got a sweaty T-shirt.
How does your transmitter know if your receiver battery voltage is too low?
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Cardiak
How does your transmitter know if your receiver battery voltage is too low?
I use a Sanwa M11x, it's adjustable between 3,5-5V. Works just fine, though I don't know exactly how the function operates.
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mlax
Use rubber bands instead of a spring.

For engine: hard to beat... ELITE 5OFF
Got some bands from my daughters usage that talking to one of the hot shoes at the track he uses so should be set there for return "spring".

Is that engine, the ELITE5 better than the Palomi .21?

Originally Posted by NitroVein
....
The reason why they have that pipe and manifold on sale is that no one wants them! Save yourself the trouble and get another pipe/manifold combo, lots of info in the Novarossi thread.
what do you guys recommend for a pipe and manifold combo? In general I am used to the torque that Electric 1/8 puts down, and usually go with a punchy setup. However, what the pipe and mainfold relative to the engine does exactly I am not sure on. I just know in general from my 1/5 days better to have a pipe for power than that stupid box muffler

Are used pipes and manifolds okay to use (reason being, I'll most likely buy an new engine but may get a used package deal if it has the other items needed, maybe reuse the pipe and mainfold)


As for Glow Plugs, using the stock ones good? thinking of a few spares of those too. I could run in very cold conditions, is there a particular plug from Novarossi to use? (the one I thought to use they said was discontinued?)
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Old 12-29-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain

Is that engine, the ELITE5 better than the Palomi .21?

what do you guys recommend for a pipe and manifold combo? In general I am used to the torque that Electric 1/8 puts down, and usually go with a punchy setup. However, what the pipe and mainfold relative to the engine does exactly I am not sure on. I just know in general from my 1/5 days better to have a pipe for power than that stupid box muffler

Are used pipes and manifolds okay to use (reason being, I'll most likely buy an new engine but may get a used package deal if it has the other items needed, maybe reuse the pipe and mainfold)


As for Glow Plugs, using the stock ones good? thinking of a few spares of those too. I could run in very cold conditions, is there a particular plug from Novarossi to use? (the one I thought to use they said was discontinued?)
I'm not an expert on Novarossi, but:
I do believe the Paloma is pretty hot, should work well in truggy.
The Elite 5 should work well in both truggy and buggy.

I also believe the 41001, 41005 is the manifolds that usually works well, in truggy maybe 41031 or 41033 as well.
But don't take my word for it, see if "Houston" or "Maximo" has commented in any of the threads regarding this.

Hard to say if the used pipe you might get is right, but if it is, clean it like crazy!
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:30 AM
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:54 AM
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I knew something was missing.
Under no circumstance do the old school break-in. Send it to Adam Drake he has a break-in machine that will make a perfect engine. Best money you will ever spend.
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:59 AM
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I'm going to say it: I don't think its worth spending $50 + shipping on a $150 engine. Just my 2 cents. If you end up buying a new B2012 or WR7 or Spec II or Spec III, as in, a north of $400 engine, yeah, the ratio becomes a lot better.
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:56 AM
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You are always going to spend time and fuel to break-in an engine, wearing the con rod, crank, bearings and clutch let alone the rest of the car.
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mlax
I'm going to say it: I don't think its worth spending $50 + shipping on a $150 engine. Just my 2 cents. If you end up buying a new B2012 or WR7 or Spec II or Spec III, as in, a north of $400 engine, yeah, the ratio becomes a lot better.
It's worth it, but I will say this:

The only way to learn is by trying, so if you want to break in your own engine and get the tune right and do it all yourself, go for it. This may be your best bet with such a low budget engine. IF you do it correctly, you'll get a long lasting engine with gold piston head that will start up without problems. BUT, I will also tell you this, because I don't lie to people. You won't get a perfect break in your first time around. I said this in my long post I'm assuming you didn't read, cause it's to long. But, there are to many variables for a newbie to nitro to break in an engine perfectly, I'm sorry but it's true. So, in that sense it's totally worth sending it to someone to break it in for you, there are many people. Adam Drake is mentioned above, probably your best bet. Do not let me discourage you at all, I'd prefer you try to do it yourself and get it right and report back any issues, but there is always the possibility of doing it wrong or messing up and that's when a break in from an experienced nitro guy becomes worth it, if you want a long lasting reliable Paloma that will run like a wicked bat, go get it broken in by Adam Drake. Not shame in it, I know plenty of nitro guys that have been in for many years and they still don't break in any of their engines, because it's a science (that's why methods are always evolving) and you want to get it as close to perfect as you can. Best of luck, you've been given great advice from many people. Wish I saw newer guys to the community getting this much help.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:33 AM
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like don't get me wrong, EBIS is obviously the best break-in method currently available. I just think its not worth to pay 1/3 of the engines price for the break-in given that most people do not stick with a Paloma once they get really serious about racing.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:24 AM
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As there is close to no correlation between performance/quality vs price on racing engines, it makes no sense ruling out getting a good break in done because the engine is cheap.
The pinch can be pretty good on a Novarossi, so it would make more sense for someone struggling to get that engine broken in by someone then something like an OS.

And yeah, idling on the box for a long time isn't a good idea.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:32 AM
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And there’s the guys that say the EBIS thing is a great big vat of snake oil. Almost literally.

Some guys equate an engines retail price with their level of quality. LMAO! There are $150 engines that blow the doors off of some $500 engines in terms of quality and longevity.

For me - the only answers are Novarossi or Picco based Mills from here on out.
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:09 PM
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As someone new to nitro, i've found it thus far a good experience. I just reached out for help from some experienced nitro folks at the track and they helped me get a good base tune. From there, its was minor needle changes to suit conditions. Like anything, bit a of a learning curve at first but worth the effort. I have to drive 3 hours minimum to race 1/8 and i figured if thats gonna be the case, may as well get intro nitro and get my run time worth outta the trip. Happy New Year.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:05 PM
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Old 01-02-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by CBren32
You travel 3 hours a lot to tracks? I was just informed of some nice tracks about 2 hours from me and might make it a tradition to go there on weekends, just don't know if driving so far is worth it, but guess we'll see.
To do nitro here, will definitely be traveling that for sure!

The group though up there in general I'll be running with are great. So if this is all a go should be cool to give it a try.

I may have an engine coming based on some pm's back and forth, if all works out big thanks to kaptain crash!
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