Tzicul

Check the carriers, it might be possible to have them installed the wrong way right/left, there is a L and R printed on them

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

That’s some severe bump steer. Tzicul has a good suggestion but also check to make sure the tie rods are attached properly. If you have the tie rods attached to the top instead of bottom of the knuckles and/or bellcranks you will get bump steer like that. I don’t remember whether they should be attached to the top or bottom, check the exploded views.

ejfiii

@Wesleyroy: what brand are your aftermarket bodies on the XXL2E? I can't seem to find any aftermarket bodies with a wheelbase that comes close to matching the 15.5 inches or 390mm of the LST2. I see a bunch at 13 or 13.5 inches but that doesn't seem like it will look right. Thanks in advance.

wesleyroy

Hi Ejfiji, i have the Chevy 1980's body from Pro-Line on my LST Aftershock. And i have a GMC Topkick (also made by pro-line) for my Losi XXL.

FunnieKid

Don't care too much about wheel base, the A-arms doesn't have to be perfectly centered in the wheel archs. There are plenty of bodies from proline that will fit e.g. the silverado, chevy 80s, chevy c10 (long bed).

ejfiii

Thanks Guys! Thinking about THIS proline Raptor Body. I have always loved the raptor and as an F150 owner its a natural fit.

In the meantime until I can get one and get it painted up I might run my J Concepts BAJR from my 2wd Slash that I need to fix to sell. It looks better in person than in these pics- not perfect but will look ok for now.

ejfiii

Hey guys, at the suggestion of Overdriven and Tzicul I took apart the suspension on the right side. I didn't see any L or R stamps on any of the parts. I reviewed the exploded views and they really don't show how the turnbuckles mount.

But i may have found the issue. Of course I can't tell for sure looking at the diagrams or the hundreds of google pics I have reviewed. Can someone please confirm that the steering arms (turnbuckles) mount on the top or the bottom of the steering bellcranks. I have them on the bottom as that is where they were when i got the truck, but they may need to go on the top.

I appreciate the help guys.

Tzicul

They are on top of the bell crank. If this doesn't solve the problem, change the carriers also. Here you go

https://www.flickr.com/photos/985501...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/985501...posted-public/

grabbem88

iTrader: (1)

It’s your whole entire alignment don’t start buying stuff that you don’t need till the truck is zeroed and true.

Bump steer is what you are seeing and your Ackerman center point is giving you bump out at full compressed..since these trucks don’t have an adjustable Ackerman it mostly comes down to servo and steering links and angle high on inside low on outside should bring bumpsteer in tires pointing in but too much will give you crappy landings and rough terrain will cause truck to buck around everywhere

And yes links are on top on both ends shocks are on outer hole at full compression I get a slight caster in and that’s it.

So something on your yours is pushing out maybe have it loose and see what moves first?

Murphy_097

iTrader: (5)

I'll just about garuntee that the turnbuckles were on the wrong side is all... I've done it myslef, lol, on my Savages, and LST's before, by getting in a hurry. Reinstall them as suggested, and get back to us when you can.

ejfiii

Hi Guys, the steering fix was simple: had the steering arms on the bottom of the bellcranks- moved them to the top and all is good again.

But i keep breaking the rear plastic piece that holds the wheelie bar at the top. Its part of the shock tower kit 2151 as seen here:



The extruded part that the screw goes through to hold the wheelie bar keeps ripping right out of the plastic. I realize its cold today but this is the third time.

I have found a part by GPM but its not in production anymore. anyone else know where i could find a stronger part for this? Or some way to strengthen this up? I have tried both the shock and the straight bar that comes with the wheelie bar and in both cases it has ripped off.

Also, in the snow today the lock nut on the end of the slipper tranny shaft would not stay tight. Every 2 minutes or so it would back off. Never had this happen before. Is there something about the cold that would cause this? do I add some blue loctite to it? Really weird.

Thanks for the help.

wesleyroy

I had no problems in the snow today ;-).

Really fun to drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaSqpdOn358

I would switch to a T-bone wheelybar, i like it much better then the stock wheelybar.

wesleyroy

FLDan

Regarding the nut on the trans input shaft, if it keeps backing out it probably needs to be replaced. Locktite won't do you much good if the nut is worn. In fact, the excessive slippage can cause the slipper pads to get grenaded (I've found this out the hard way more than once.) I'd imagine the problem is more pronounced with brushless power...

scottc

iTrader: (23)

here is my new wheels from NitroRx with 17mm hexs