wesleyroy

Thanks, at first i had to get used to it, but it protects the front good. And they are very strong. I also have the rear T-bone bumper with wheeliebar. Also very strong, however you can still over-wheelie, because the bumper has flex in it.

So a long wheelie is a challenge but fun.

silentboost

iTrader: (64)

i dont run a wheeliebar lol

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

You need 10 posts before you can post links or pictures. You should be good to go now.

As for those Rakonheli products you linked, not cheapest but not too bad on price as long as they're good pieces. The Dynamite front knuckles for the LST2 are $30 compared to $45 for these but it depends on the aluminum they're made of. I had Dynamite Tmaxx parts back in the day and they were softer 50 series aluminum that was junk compared to 6061 or 7075 aluminum. The fact that Rakonheli is from Vietnam doesn't exactly inspire comfidence like New Era did and the descriptions are severely lacking but who knows they could be decent parts.

The only parts I'd change to aluminum are the front knuckles and carriers/c hubs but I'm not searching out the discontinued New Era knuckles and Losi 15 degree carriers. Stock plastic is cheap and tough enough. I wouldn't use a carbon fiber shock tower on these trucks unless it was 5mm thick. Associated put 5mm thick carbon fiber towers on their RC8FT but then switched to aluminum towers for subsequent models which should tell you something. Also those Associated carbon fiber towers didn't need an aluminum base and upper pieces which just adds stress points.

Ndaddy03

FIGURE OUT THE LENGTH YOU NEED AND GO STRAIGHT TO LUNSFORD THEY ARE CHEAPER THEN THAT FOR SURE

PedalMonk

Thanks again for your input. I decided to buy the stock shock towers. I do own the aluminum knuckles but will wait to out them on.

PedalMonk

Hopefully this link/gif works.

http://imgur.com/4zwYjtV

m4inbrain

Hey, just wondering.. Since i've experienced many of the "general problems" so far, like a slipper nut that constantly backs itself out even if it's threadlocked, or the "flat spots" on the tires - does anyone have trouble with the tracking of the wheels? Mine rarely goes straight, and on full lock in reverse it actually stays on full lock until i go straight forward again.

Is that generally like this, or is something "off"?

Could you point me to the wheeliebar that you're using? I've found the rear bumper but wouldn't know what wheelie bar to get on it?

Sidenote, in regards to the slipper.. What are you guys using? Tried Loctite Purple (the only one i have currently) - didn't do it. Wondering now if i should try blue or go straight to red. Red makes it pretty much impossible to get off though, no?

BuGgYBaShEr.28

I use blue on the locknut, then for t bones, they say the 1/10 wheelie bar mounts right to the back of the bumper. It's on there Web page somewhere for the bumper.

m4inbrain

Cheers, blue it is then. I'll look around for the wheelie bar.

Only question left is the tracking, is it just mine that rarely goes straight, or keeps the steering angle in reverse even if you leave the steering alone after initial full lock?

Dnyce

So my truck is running on 6S, crazy power. Got a Castle Link to adjust the throttle curve as to take some abuse off of the drivetrain. Need some help diagnosing a problem that I have. When I accelerate I'm getting a loud clicking sound and my guess is that something is wrong with the transmission. First time that happened one of the drive shaft grub screws backed out. This time everything is tight, and slipper nut is fine. I checked grub screws and inspected f/r differentials & axles (spin tire and the other tire rotates smoothly in the opposite direction) and they all appear to be working fine. It's like the spur gear is slipping and clacking before it locks in power to the outdrive..is this something wrong internally with transmission.. Thoughts?

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Turning one tire and having the other tire spin the opposite direction only checks half the differential. It actually checks the spider gears inside the diff cup and not the ring and pinion gears. If you want to check the ring and pinion remove the gear cover, hold the spur gear from turning and then drag the front or rear tires across the ground, release the spur and let the tires rotate 1/4 turn and try again to check the whole gear. If you get skipping out of just one of the diffs then you know the trans is not at fault. Alternatively you can remove the diff and check it out if the truck which is pretty easy on these trucks.

FYI the trans isn't all that easy to get out with the differentials in the truck. Removing at least one diff let's the trans move enough slip it out. Trans failures are pretty rare and when they do have an issue it's usually just a broken drive pin.

gibsontoad

iTrader: (4)

anyone know of any bodys that are a close fit?

BuGgYBaShEr.28

I know the hpi xl bodies fit, I'm using one from the hpi gt2 and the gigante body wiI'll fit if you can find it. Other than that I trim the proline bodies off the back to fit right

Dnyce

Well you were right, it wasn't the transmission because I ordered a replacement from Dollar Hobbyz and it didn't fix the problem.. The diffs also appear okay although I guess I need to open them up.. this is super frustrating! Thanks for your help.

werner sline

i like this !