thank you so much, that is exactly the information i needed! :-)

Your welcome glad I could help.

wich pipe
 

I'll may get the .30vg for my maxx. (still looking for THE big block to have)

Wich Pipe should I get for that motor?

All of the dyno charts I have seen shows the N528x as the most powerful big block. The OS .30 has tons of low end grunt, but a very narrow powerband.

If it were a Revo, I'd say the newest RB .23. But for a T-maxx, not sure. Pipe, go for the JP-1 ro JP-2, or the Novarossi/OFNA 053

new os engine
 

i just put this engine in my savage. i cant get it start at all. its a roto start. what am doing wrong. what is the best settings to start this thing off at. how should i break it in? please help

Welcome to the Forum!!

OK, first things first. Have you run nitro engines before? Presumably you've had some experience with the engine that was supplied with your Savage?

New engines can be very tight and can stick at top dead centre. You'll have to turn the flywheel by hand to free it each time this happens. That's the first thing.

Next up, if your engine is so tight you're having problems with a freshly charged Roto Start turning the engine over, you may want to slacken the Glow plug by 1/4 of a turn, to reduce the compression slightly. Note: this won't necessarily prevent the sticking at TDC, but assuming your engine is primed with fuel, thus lubricated, it should help reduce the load on the Roto, starting shaft and the conrod in your new engine.

Your engine needs 3 things to function - Ignition, Fuel and Air. Ensure your fuel is good, your lines clear, the filter clean and the glow plug healthy, as well as the glow starter that powers it. You need to check your carb is correctly set at a base setting for starting/running in - check with your instructions what these factory settings are, especially if you've been turning them and lost track of where you are.

Remember that at the initial very rich, running in setting, the throttle will need to be partially open (in most instances) for the engine to run.

Remember - you need to get it started before you can run it in! :blush: Without more information, it's very difficult to know what or even if you're doing something wrong.

thank you. what is the best way to break in this os enigine?

Have a read of the Fantom engine manual - it's very good.

Here's a link to where it's cut and pasted here at RCTech. Enjoy!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ight=ABC+Bible

:)

im putting the 30 in my lst with the roto start. the problem im having is that both the 12 and 21 size roto housing are too big for the oneway that came with the engine. has anyone else had this problem.

Revo 3.3 w/ O.S. 30 VG problem????
 

Hey Guys,

I just got a Revo 3.3 with a O.S. 30 VG(P) SR on it and the crank shaft is hitting the rear A arm. I was just wondering what yall think I should do to fix it. I can get a backplate and that might fix it. You can see the problem in the picture.

Throw that crappy O.S. 30 VG(P) away!!
I have one and it is the biggest peace of junk you can buy from O.S.
Put it on Ebay.

Replacing crankshaft rear bearing-how do I remove?
 

I am trying to remove the rear bearing to my OS .30 VG. I have removed everything and heated up for 10 minutes at 300 degrees in oven. The bearing didn't budge. Any other ideas?

how many gallons
 

how many gallons have any of you got out of a .30 OS eng ?


and here's another good question: does the ABL liner in those engines make it last longer than a standerd nitro engine ? :sweat:

I only got around 2 gallons out of my OS .30 VG before I had to do a rebuild. The rear bearing got sloppy which caused the conrod to strike the case which caused the piston to get pitted which caused the sleeve to expand with the debris. You get the idea.
I rebuilt the engine with new bearings, conrod, sleeve and piston.
Just now breaking it in.

JW
 

I thought these engines lasted longer than 2 gallons. Were u running it lean or in dusty conditions ?