Fixin to start racing our Revos this year. What color springs are you guys using and what weight shock oil are you using? Any other setup tips will be appreciated.

With springs and oil, you will have to change and experiment with pistons too, they all have to be changed for a proper working shock. In that respect, you will probably have to use trial and error being erevo and MT's in general are not really raced, rather not as popular and no one here knows your track. Most M/T's I see outdoor are put in the open class with everything else that did not have enough for it's own class i.e. 2wd buggys, stadium trucks, small 10th M/T's like the pede ETC.. If you have a full M/T class at your track that's great too, I would look up Steve Slayden for a base set up that you will have to tweek to your driving style.

If you get put in a Truggy class same thing about the springs, oil, pistons and base set up. Let me know when your ready for a Truggy if your put in this class, I might still have a couple race roller kits available

Get some PRO3 rockers and the 134mm pushrods part# 5319X.

Stay with the P2 rockers , go to green springs front and tan springs rear .

I am pretty sure I am using 40wt oil front and 45wt rear .

I use the VDP (variable damping pistons) pistons , don't remember what number they are though . and the Tekno swaybar kit ....

It's not a post by nitro if it's not trolling.

Nice try... It's not trolling. In fact, you are the one who is trolling with posts like this with no useful information trying to get people riled up. De me and lots of other members a favor, go back and try to get another girlfriend. Even though your not good with one of those, at least you have a 2 year consistency out of here..

Why PRO 2? I hear PRO 3 is the way to go when it comes to on road or track work. Have you ever used PRO 3 rockers?

I have a 8ight-t that I am working on converting to electric as we speak. But right now I want to race Monster trucks not truggies. I will eventaully run the 8ight but now is the Revos turn. I already have sway bars on it, the Traxxas annodized push rods, and RPM arms with the True Trac system on the rear. Will check on the springs when I get home not sure what I have on there now. Thanks for the input...

I have, too much droop and too stiff for racing.

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Droop is how far your suspension drops out once you get air, there are no droop screws on a revo. Droop has nothing to do with your spring preload. When I raced mine I used fuel tube in the shock because even P2's gave me too much droop for my driving style.

Preload is ride height, too much spring preload can make it bouncy and springy off a jump face, that can slow you down because too much can send you sailing off the track so you would have to slow down before you hit the jump. Not to mention very little traction all over.

Oil weight has nothing to do with ride height or spring preload, oil only dampens the spring.


EDIT: Here is an example of droop problems. Have you ever read about guys breaking shock rod ends and going aluminum? The reason for that is once your suspension bottoms out or "droops" all the way down after hitting a jump, on a revo the shock shaft and the shock piston bears the entire weight. You hit and bottom that shock shaft and piston out enough times you get fatuge all over the place and the first thing to pop is the plastic end. This is why it's very important to use the proper weight oils, springs and pistons especially in one of these M/T's in a race application.

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I'm running double pink in the back and blue in the front with 60 wt oil. It allows the oil to be reasonably fast compressing and the springs to be stiffer. Using these higher tension springs I can set my truck height based on the preload collar position instead of having to worry about how tight I need to get the spring to set the height. This allows me to focus on oil instead of always cranking my springs. Some people prefer a softer spring and thick sludgy slow oil for higher dampening, but the truck is slow to respond with heavy oil. Running lighter oil and heavier springs allows the truck to be reactive to track conditions and less drugged in the way it responds. Of course if you aren't a good driver then slower response and looser trucks tend to cover up your mistakes better.

On most any tracks tires are more important so going with this "oil changes everything" setup allows me to focus on which tire I am running.

Ride height and droop are 2 totally different things, ride height is the distance between the lowest part of the chassis and the ground while droop is fow far the suspension drops out while in the air. I know what you meant the first time, you just didnt understand the difference but i'm glad I can help.. Sorry for your misunderstanding. tired*

And there you go , thanks got_nitro ....