E-REVO
10-28-2010, 01:40 PM
#1
E-REVO
I just bought a e-revo roller and plan to run a castle 2200 combo, what upgrades should i make to the truck and what gearing, I just need someone to point me in the right direction! I want to bulletproof it for sure cause it will be a basher!
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
10-28-2010, 05:39 PM
#2
I have been running 22/62 for over a year and its really fast and temps are reasonable . I wouldnt use the pinion that comes with the combo as its aluminum and wears out pretty quickly .
You can also go too Traxxas.com and look up a gearing chart there .
You can also go too Traxxas.com and look up a gearing chart there .
10-28-2010, 05:46 PM
#3
18/54 is the sweet spot. As for bullet proofing it, by a flux. Actually the truck is pretty strong but it does have some weak points. Set the slipper on the loose side to save on drive shafts. Go with a single steering servo setup. Something like the hitech 5955 or 7955. Shim your diffs VERY,VERY well and it should last for awhile. RPM arms cause the stockers just break. The rear end tends to break off when crashing on it so you can use a pushrod as a support brace from a rear shock mount to the spot where the nitro pipe would screw into it. It helps a lot in this area. The stock wheels didn't last 5 runs without tearing apart. Aluminum skid plates cause the rears go out fairly quuick then you start to loose hinge pins. These are just some of the stuff I did and has helped. The best thing you could do is sign up to Traxxas Forums. They are dedicated sections in there about this one truck unlike here where it's mixed with mt's.
The erevo is a great truck and a blast to bash.
Terry
The erevo is a great truck and a blast to bash.
Terry
10-28-2010, 09:45 PM
#4
Well I have a spare mamba monster laying around not getting any use so I figured I would get something to put it in. I already have a jr 8711 servo and plan to get cvds for it. From what I have read the stock driveshafts arent that great and snap really easy! The roller Im getting I dont think comes with any manuals and I cant find what Im looking for online so Ill ask you guys? What shock oil and diff fluid should I use? Like I said I plan to bash which = Really big jumps!
Thanks for he help guys, If anyone has any other suggestions on what I should do It is greatly appreciated!
Thanks for he help guys, If anyone has any other suggestions on what I should do It is greatly appreciated!
10-31-2010, 11:04 AM
#5
Well I have a spare mamba monster laying around not getting any use so I figured I would get something to put it in. I already have a jr 8711 servo and plan to get cvds for it. From what I have read the stock driveshafts arent that great and snap really easy! The roller Im getting I dont think comes with any manuals and I cant find what Im looking for online so Ill ask you guys? What shock oil and diff fluid should I use? Like I said I plan to bash which = Really big jumps!
Thanks for he help guys, If anyone has any other suggestions on what I should do It is greatly appreciated!
Thanks for he help guys, If anyone has any other suggestions on what I should do It is greatly appreciated!
10-31-2010, 11:53 AM
#6
18/54 is the sweet spot. As for bullet proofing it, by a flux. Actually the truck is pretty strong but it does have some weak points. Set the slipper on the loose side to save on drive shafts. Go with a single steering servo setup. Something like the hitech 5955 or 7955. Shim your diffs VERY,VERY well and it should last for awhile. RPM arms cause the stockers just break. The rear end tends to break off when crashing on it so you can use a pushrod as a support brace from a rear shock mount to the spot where the nitro pipe would screw into it. It helps a lot in this area. The stock wheels didn't last 5 runs without tearing apart. Aluminum skid plates cause the rears go out fairly quuick then you start to loose hinge pins. These are just some of the stuff I did and has helped. The best thing you could do is sign up to Traxxas Forums. They are dedicated sections in there about this one truck unlike here where it's mixed with mt's.
The erevo is a great truck and a blast to bash.
Terry
The erevo is a great truck and a blast to bash.
Terry
Stock skid plates work fine.
Set the slipper AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE then back off 1/4th turn or else you'll burn through slippers every battery pack.
The stock 2 servo setup is FINE with RPM arms, I'm using it, bashing it as hard as you can, and it's fine. 1 is great if you have it, if not don't worry about switching it.
I'm also having no issues with my diffs or driveshafts on the stock setup.
The only upgrades the ERevo needs are pushrods/RPM a-arms.
As for shock weight, use 60 - 70.
10-31-2010, 01:26 PM
#7
I completely disagree with all of this.
Stock skid plates work fine.
Set the slipper AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE then back off 1/4th turn or else you'll burn through slippers every battery pack.
The stock 2 servo setup is FINE with RPM arms, I'm using it, bashing it as hard as you can, and it's fine. 1 is great if you have it, if not don't worry about switching it.
I'm also having no issues with my diffs or driveshafts on the stock setup.
The only upgrades the ERevo needs are pushrods/RPM a-arms.
As for shock weight, use 60 - 70.
Stock skid plates work fine.
Set the slipper AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE then back off 1/4th turn or else you'll burn through slippers every battery pack.
The stock 2 servo setup is FINE with RPM arms, I'm using it, bashing it as hard as you can, and it's fine. 1 is great if you have it, if not don't worry about switching it.
I'm also having no issues with my diffs or driveshafts on the stock setup.
The only upgrades the ERevo needs are pushrods/RPM a-arms.
As for shock weight, use 60 - 70.
<THANKS CASEYDDR>
11-10-2010, 06:18 PM
#9
Well I would do MIP CVD drivetrain... They are strong as hell.
http://miponline.com/store/E-Revo_Parts.html
They are pricey but in my opinion worth it if you want to put down 6S power.
Robinson Racing Transmission Internals.
Do not use RPM tru-trac set up.. if your using CVD drive shafts... Do the brace thing.. If your gonna just be bashing think hard about removing the wing assembly. Because on a bad landing it is just a ton of leverage on the back bulkhead/chassis.
These are all just my opinions.. It is true you cant make a truck drivetrain unbreakable but this is about as close as I can without putting 1/8 diffs in.. it takes alot of work . Good luck. and have fun.
http://miponline.com/store/E-Revo_Parts.html
They are pricey but in my opinion worth it if you want to put down 6S power.
Robinson Racing Transmission Internals.
Do not use RPM tru-trac set up.. if your using CVD drive shafts... Do the brace thing.. If your gonna just be bashing think hard about removing the wing assembly. Because on a bad landing it is just a ton of leverage on the back bulkhead/chassis.
These are all just my opinions.. It is true you cant make a truck drivetrain unbreakable but this is about as close as I can without putting 1/8 diffs in.. it takes alot of work . Good luck. and have fun.
11-11-2010, 02:44 AM
#10
I completely disagree with all of this.
Stock skid plates work fine.
Set the slipper AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE then back off 1/4th turn or else you'll burn through slippers every battery pack.
The stock 2 servo setup is FINE with RPM arms, I'm using it, bashing it as hard as you can, and it's fine. 1 is great if you have it, if not don't worry about switching it.
I'm also having no issues with my diffs or driveshafts on the stock setup.
The only upgrades the ERevo needs are pushrods/RPM a-arms.
As for shock weight, use 60 - 70.
Stock skid plates work fine.
Set the slipper AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE then back off 1/4th turn or else you'll burn through slippers every battery pack.
The stock 2 servo setup is FINE with RPM arms, I'm using it, bashing it as hard as you can, and it's fine. 1 is great if you have it, if not don't worry about switching it.
I'm also having no issues with my diffs or driveshafts on the stock setup.
The only upgrades the ERevo needs are pushrods/RPM a-arms.
As for shock weight, use 60 - 70.
Seriously, I have read through many of your negative posts and have held back from saying anything for the longest time. But now you want to reply negative crap about my post that was in my opinion directed to the OP only, I'm not holding back anymore. You really need to get a life and stop being so negative. You say nothing of yours ever breaks and stock parts are this and that. Well if you ever drive your trucks you would know that certain parts will break especially when driven hard. Everyone has there own driving techniques so you can't say that certain parts will hold up cause yours do not break. You need to grow up.
Now to the OP, all my suggestions are based on bashing hard. From the sounds of it that seems like what you want to do. Try running the stock parts and when they break, upgrade from there.
Oh and Casey, you can reply back with your sarcasm and negativity, I will not loose any sleep over it.
Terry
EDIT: By the way, all the parts that I listed that broke, that was my wife driving. The erevo is hers and she mostly bashes with it.
11-11-2010, 02:47 AM
#11
This is the funniest post I have ever read. I can care less to what you agree/disagree with. My post was directed to the OP and was my opinion only. Things I have done to make it better. Everyone's driving style is different so parts tend to break/not break per person. I drive my trucks pretty hard and everything I listed has broke, then was upgraded. How can you burn through slipper pads when they are aluminum. That doesn't make sense. And you do not want to set the slipper tight especially since the erevo does not have 1/8 scale diffs. Sure they are strong but they will fail faster with a tight slipper. Drive shafts are the number one part that break first and have been reported by most erevo users. And rear skid plates depends on if your racing it or not. I go through plastic skids fairly quick and even quicker when racing. As for the stock servo setup, 2 servos will never be in sync which each other. One will try to over power the other which will result in the other failing. With any kind of crashes, they will go out of align and will start working against each other. A single servo setup is the best way you can go in any truck. I have pictures of your evero and by the looks of it, you don't "bash" at all.
Seriously, I have read through many of your negative posts and have held back from saying anything for the longest time. But now you want to reply negative crap about my post that was in my opinion directed to the OP only, I'm not holding back anymore. You really need to get a life and stop being so negative. You say nothing of yours ever breaks and stock parts are this and that. Well if you ever drive your trucks you would know that certain parts will break especially when driven hard. Everyone has there own driving techniques so you can't say that certain parts will hold up cause yours do not break. You need to grow up.
Now to the OP, all my suggestions are based on bashing hard. From the sounds of it that seems like what you want to do. Try running the stock parts and when they break, upgrade from there.
Oh and Casey, you can reply back with your sarcasm and negativity, I will not loose any sleep over it.
Terry
Seriously, I have read through many of your negative posts and have held back from saying anything for the longest time. But now you want to reply negative crap about my post that was in my opinion directed to the OP only, I'm not holding back anymore. You really need to get a life and stop being so negative. You say nothing of yours ever breaks and stock parts are this and that. Well if you ever drive your trucks you would know that certain parts will break especially when driven hard. Everyone has there own driving techniques so you can't say that certain parts will hold up cause yours do not break. You need to grow up.
Now to the OP, all my suggestions are based on bashing hard. From the sounds of it that seems like what you want to do. Try running the stock parts and when they break, upgrade from there.
Oh and Casey, you can reply back with your sarcasm and negativity, I will not loose any sleep over it.
Terry
Learn to take care of your car, maybe you won't have so many problems.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTKK8&P=ML
pads are clearly not aluminum. lol.
11-11-2010, 02:51 AM
#12
Must have hit some nerve for you to write a novel to me.
Learn to take care of your car, maybe you won't have so many problems.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTKK8&P=ML
pads are clearly not aluminum. lol.
Learn to take care of your car, maybe you won't have so many problems.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTKK8&P=ML
pads are clearly not aluminum. lol.
Guess again buddy.
Terry
11-11-2010, 02:55 AM
#14
See the exploded view. They are "stock" and the 5252X are optional. Wrong again.
Terry
11-11-2010, 09:56 AM
#15
Like mentioned different people's driving styles will cause different failures.
After over a year of bashing and a little bit of racing I have had to upgrade- RPM a-arms up front (I prefer Traxxas extended wheelbase a arms on the rear and have only had 1 break from a pipe landing), rear tie rod brace mod to save the rear bulks and chassis, Traxxas cvd's on the rear (haven't had too many issues with stock front driveshafts other than them stretching/wearing out after while), have had a few diff failures but since getting my slipper set perfectly I haven't had any- shim the diffs if they need it for sure though. I have gone through a couple plastic skids as well but just replaced with stock since I got quite a bit of run time out of them they just wore down eventually-.aluminum would be great though. Also there is alot of slop in the stock 17mm hubs, there are mods out there that will help as well as better hubs with less slop. Due to slop from the stock driveshafts and hubs I have had a few sets of axle carrier bearings crap out on me but getting rid of slop should save those.
Don't run a locked up slipper or you will never keep your drivetrain alive! Set your slipper properly- slips for 1-2 seconds from a hard start but will still wheelie when you want.
The main things I have done set up wise are- Hitech 5955 tg servo- proline single servo arm (freakin love the single servo its well worth it btw), VDP kit with #2 pistons- silver springs front/ blue rear and 60 weight shock oil all around, Traxxas sway bars (black bars), P2 rockers, shock socks, 30-50k diff oil front and rear depending on how you like it, I ballooned my mmm power switch, put a screen over the fan to keep dirt out, use a CC blower fan on the motor, Summit bumpers with lights (awesome). I run 4s mainly with 18/62-54 gearing.
Everyone will swear this or that MUST be upgraded right away but your best bet is to go run the truck and see what breaks on you really.
Btw, many people seem to upgrade to aluminum pushrods/toe links right away but I have never had a problem with the stock rods...
After over a year of bashing and a little bit of racing I have had to upgrade- RPM a-arms up front (I prefer Traxxas extended wheelbase a arms on the rear and have only had 1 break from a pipe landing), rear tie rod brace mod to save the rear bulks and chassis, Traxxas cvd's on the rear (haven't had too many issues with stock front driveshafts other than them stretching/wearing out after while), have had a few diff failures but since getting my slipper set perfectly I haven't had any- shim the diffs if they need it for sure though. I have gone through a couple plastic skids as well but just replaced with stock since I got quite a bit of run time out of them they just wore down eventually-.aluminum would be great though. Also there is alot of slop in the stock 17mm hubs, there are mods out there that will help as well as better hubs with less slop. Due to slop from the stock driveshafts and hubs I have had a few sets of axle carrier bearings crap out on me but getting rid of slop should save those.
Don't run a locked up slipper or you will never keep your drivetrain alive! Set your slipper properly- slips for 1-2 seconds from a hard start but will still wheelie when you want.
The main things I have done set up wise are- Hitech 5955 tg servo- proline single servo arm (freakin love the single servo its well worth it btw), VDP kit with #2 pistons- silver springs front/ blue rear and 60 weight shock oil all around, Traxxas sway bars (black bars), P2 rockers, shock socks, 30-50k diff oil front and rear depending on how you like it, I ballooned my mmm power switch, put a screen over the fan to keep dirt out, use a CC blower fan on the motor, Summit bumpers with lights (awesome
). I run 4s mainly with 18/62-54 gearing. Everyone will swear this or that MUST be upgraded right away but your best bet is to go run the truck and see what breaks on you really.
Btw, many people seem to upgrade to aluminum pushrods/toe links right away but I have never had a problem with the stock rods...