ya i think i will get those forward only gears. i am not using my reverse and my sirio .18 needs all the accel it can get(it is slugggish off the line but flies once it gets going).

With the forward only conversion there are a few options available to you. The Traxxas plastic works great with stock 2.5 and is the lightest you can get but won't last with the .18. the Robinson Racing hardened alluminum didn't work for me cause I run a .21 in my savage killer. I galled the surface of the gears in 3 tanks of fuel. I also tried the Robinson Racing steel set and was happy, fit, finnish, and all were excelent but the factory bottom shaft of the trans (the front and rear drive cups bolt onto) with the hole crossdrilled for the drive cups would break if I got in trouble and landed wrong under power. The engeneering unlimited shafts and gears were expensive here in Canada but worth the piece of mind... I last opened the trans for service 3 tanks ago and found no wear to worry about (I have sealed the aluminum trans and I now run automatic transmission fluid for lube). Now bear in mind I attempt to break something every time I run the truck, as an automotive mecanic it gives me something to ponder IE. what can I fix next???

hehehe, ya i think i will get some mip cvds too. strengthen up the drivetrain more with the sirio .18:nod: :nod: :nod:

<ake no mistake the stock plastic slider axles and drive cups gave me no problems with the power of the .21. The only reason I went to the Mip CVD setup is they were sponsored to me and with the .21 conversion I still had to cut the rear shaft and add 3/4" in length to make things work for me.

forget to write something lizzardo420?:confused: :lol: :lol:

I was trying to post a picture but my gear doesent seem to wanna work?? I shall try again tommorow

trans fluid....not a bad idea i must say...

The only issue I have faced with the MIP cvd's is the pins and set screws would back out after 2 qualifiers so the solution I used was to grind a small flat for the set screw to grab onto the pin, then a little band of shrink tube to back-up and make sure the pin can't move. The shrink tube also helps keep the dirt out of the CVD's

interesting...i've never had a problem with those, but i'll try that just to avoid one

some people say that the aluminum cvds are bad because they bend when a rock gets stuck in the driveshafts. maybe they should have bought the steel ones. anyone heard of this happening?:confused:

I have actually twisted the ball end(with the permenent pin) off of my CVD's (aluminum) with the .21 bigblock. It sure gives a newfound respect for the power of nitro. A friend of mine runs a Kyosho 1/8 buggy at our track, After a bad jump and worse landing he found himself with a runaway at full throttle. with no one there to assist, Brian tried to save the car with his right thumb. The flywheel tore the pad off his thumb straight to the bone and ripped the nail off... Kinda gross but still a reminder of the power of our TOYS eh!!!

The aluminum CVD's are for electrics and the steel ones are for nitro.

now thats just nasty. hope he recovered. just stop the flywheel with you shoe, or just pinch the fuel line. put your shirt over the stinger

anything above idle, NEVER stick your finger in there to stop motor i believe is the unfortunate lesson here

hey izzardo420, not to be mean, but is your friend special in any way? i would think that someone with enough common sense would not do that.:nod: :nod:

ROFLMAO...i'm sorry but that was funny