roychan69

iTrader: (7)

Here are some "realistic" mods to consider:

The first thing to go is the jumbo Swamp Dawg tires.

* A set of LPR (Low Profile Racing) tires and wheels, like the PROLINE Crime Fighter or Bow Tie etc.. You can use 1/2" offset wheel or zero offset if you have them lying around from your truggy. The racing tires will handle much better than "bash-friendly" tires.

* 17mm wheel nut/hub conversion set if the truck doesn't have them, the stock 17mm wheel nut is a small flange nut that strips easily...

* Better steering servo, and tighten the servo-saver spring a turn or two, or you can replace the servo-saver spring with a H.D. one from HPI, they're much firmer and do wonders in turning response.

* Throttle/Brake Linkage Mod, the principle works like those from buggies or truggies, check out the net regarding this, cheap and easy to do.
The so-called stock "servo-saver" on the throttle servo is not providing enough "throw" to stop (braking) and WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

* Replace your diff oil, 7k~10k in the Front, and 3k in the Rear.
The thickness of the diff oil in the front depends on your preference like you prefer to "throttle-out" from a turn or "Off-Throttle" during turns, you have to experience it, thicker oil in the front provides more pulling power for the front wheels.

Make sure you use a little blue thread locker to the screws that goes into the aluminum diff housing.

* Add Over-Sized "Washers" to ALL your linkages; like the steering linkage of the front spindle/knuckle, the bell-crank side, the rear... that little ball in the rod-ends will "Pop-Out" easily after some time, the over-sized washer behind that linkage ball will prevent it from popping out...

* A One-Way Valve (like those for the RC planes) is good too, fix it to the fuel line (outlet from the fuel tank to the carb), it'll helps to "pressurize" the fuel tank, the truck will "run till the last drop" and it eliminates the "Half Tank Lean" issue totally...

I'll update again if I can think of some others...

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

They're not that bad. They're a bit wide but not all THAT heavy

mark.t

iTrader: (1)

Jmtc. I have the hpi lcg chassis conversion on my savage 21 also. It drops it alittle and pulls every thing in close. Love the way it handels. (Setting it up for racing.) Also I'm goin rpm arms and skid plates all around. Got mip cvs coming for the drive shafts.

Then I also I'm curious about engine up grades. I have a fresh rebuilt axial 28 s1 in it right now. But I'm lookin to maybe get a new engine and pipe combo. Some thing I am looking at for the engine and pipe combo are the axial 28rr with a jp4 pipe.would this be a good engine?
(Hope I didn't take over this fourm.)

Thanks mark.t

All4BSpinnin

iTrader: (12)

Anyways, will a need a new servo horn for a hitec servo? (so i can order one quick)

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Only if you don't have a Hitec servo in there now.

All4BSpinnin

iTrader: (12)

Its a traxxas 2075 waterproof servo in it now, with what looks like a servo saver on the servo itself (horn looks like a servo saver).

And, any idea what hitec horn i can use?

mark.t

iTrader: (1)

I have the hs985mg and the servo horn I needed for this one was a 19 tooth.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

If you get the stock Savage servo horns you'll be golden. They're pretty stout.

Alternatively you could just buy any of the Hitec horns you want that are similar in dimensions to what you've got.

All4BSpinnin

iTrader: (12)

Well the horn/saver on it now, looks to be stock to me lol, its black with a purple thing around where the screw goes into the servo.


what i have now:

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Man, looking at this post makes me want to get back to work on my Savage! I have an old Savage 25 that I installed the FLM extended chassis, aluminum diff cups, 4 gear conversion, and updated servo saver (I think) and brake kit. This was all pre Savage X, so I didn't get the new bulkheads (can't remember what all you need for the conversion!) or anything else. Heck, the shocks and springs are still the same and I never touched the shock oil since I bought it! I need to go thru a bunch of threads and see whatthe hot mods are and get a motor for this thing. The old HPI .25 isn't gonna cut it

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Oh lowdy, you need to upgrade to the cam type servo saver and a regular servo horn.

All4BSpinnin

iTrader: (12)

And what do i need to do that? lol

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Took just a little digging to find it. This includes your servo horns ITBJRC
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJSS6&P=7

You'll also want to replace the plastic bushings with bearings since you'll be in there.
Here's the HPI option ($14 for four bearings? YEAH, RIGHT.)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEUZ3&P=7

Use Avids 6x10x3 bearings. Mucho better. Rubber sealed vs metal shielded.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html

And you may as well buy this since you're going to be upgrading to that gonzo crazy new servo
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXZP5&P=7

CaseyDDR

iTrader: (57)

Ouch that's an OOOOOOLD Savage lol.

wolf16731

iTrader: (9)

Definately above all else get the upgrade cap type servo saver. It makes a huge difference.