E-maxx Brushless or Brushed
#1
I have a 14.4 E-maxx that I would like to make brushless. Everything is stock at the moment.
I have a Novak Havoc and Novak 10.5 sensored motor. Will this fit and work in the T-maxx? I am not looking for all out speed, but just something to play around with.
The E-maxx likes to eat the stock 550 motors. I have gone through a few of them so far.
I have the following battery packs that I would be using.
4ea 3300mah NIMH packs
2ea 3600mah Lipo packs
I know this is a rather heavy truck, just wanted to see what my options are.
If I wanted to stay brushed, what are the best motors that will work with the stock ESC?
I have a Novak Havoc and Novak 10.5 sensored motor. Will this fit and work in the T-maxx? I am not looking for all out speed, but just something to play around with.
The E-maxx likes to eat the stock 550 motors. I have gone through a few of them so far.
I have the following battery packs that I would be using.
4ea 3300mah NIMH packs
2ea 3600mah Lipo packs
I know this is a rather heavy truck, just wanted to see what my options are.
If I wanted to stay brushed, what are the best motors that will work with the stock ESC?
#4
KERSHAW DESIGNS E-maxx Dual 970-sized Motor Conversion Kit fits the old E-max and its only a $80 investment.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm
Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up.
Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power.
I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD
ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch.
If you where to go the brushless route you going to have to get an MMM or equivilent and prob want to swith out to Li-Po to get runtimes so that's around $300+$300= $600 at least once you add up 2 3s Li-Po's balancer charger esc motors ect not to mention upgrading the drive line.
Brushless will be hella faster and it would be and awesome truck but its also an expensive investment.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm
Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up.
Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power.
I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD
ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch.
If you where to go the brushless route you going to have to get an MMM or equivilent and prob want to swith out to Li-Po to get runtimes so that's around $300+$300= $600 at least once you add up 2 3s Li-Po's balancer charger esc motors ect not to mention upgrading the drive line.
Brushless will be hella faster and it would be and awesome truck but its also an expensive investment.
#5
KERSHAW DESIGNS E-maxx Dual 970-sized Motor Conversion Kit fits the old E-max and its only a $80 investment.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm
Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up.
Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power.
I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD
ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm
Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up.
Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power.
I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD
ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch.
#6
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
I've been running S600 Ferrite motors in my old 3905 Emaxx. They are only $16 and I've gotten about 2x the life than a stock Titan so far and they are still doing fine. I did break them in as instructions directed. I never broke ina Titan.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles.
#7
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
I've been running S600 Ferrite motors in my old 3905 Emaxx. They are only $16 and I've gotten about 2x the life than a stock Titan so far and they are still doing fine. I did break them in as instructions directed. I never broke ina Titan.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles.
#8
#11
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
The same drive axles are used on the BL E-Revo and they seem to be doing pretty well running the 6S MM 2200 Combo.
These are the axles I'm using on my FLM EXT EMaxx -they've done fine running Quark125b (heat sink modd) and 8XL and now a MMM combo.
Diff of opinion, but I'm staying with what's working. I haven't broken anything in either truck except a revo diff output - and that was a metal shaft.
#13
you must be the dumbest person I've ever seen on this forum. If you knew anything about rc you would know that the mip and traxxas replacement drive lines are shit and bend all the time. I know this from experience with them. The stock ones never bend. I will give it to you this, FLM make quality CVDs but that is just about the only company i know of that makes solid CVD's. Ask anybody who has had a bl revo, stampede, vxl rusty, vxl slash, etc.... The stock drive lines hold up very nicely. So keep your dumb ass comments to yourself.
#14
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
I'll put my money on I've been doing this longer than you snowboard, and if you aren't driving like a complete moron you wouldn't bend a CVD. I've NEVER had an issue with them in ANY car I've used. There is a reason they are used in high end cars and not plastic, but I guess you aren't bright enough to figure that out.
#15
meh i never broke the 2.5 maxx axles or drive shafts tho they did get a lil twisted.
The 3.3 plastics they hold up great with the redesign of the splines they don't twist. I hear of ppl breaking them all the time but iv yet to have it happen on any of the 4 traxxas trucks ive owned/worked on.
one time my buddy tried to drive his E-revo through a drainage pipe and hit the left a arm snapping the a arm and bending the hell outa the push rod.
I was shocked that the plastic axle was fine and only the upper a arm was broke and the push rod had a new 60* bend to it
The 3.3 plastics they hold up great with the redesign of the splines they don't twist. I hear of ppl breaking them all the time but iv yet to have it happen on any of the 4 traxxas trucks ive owned/worked on.
one time my buddy tried to drive his E-revo through a drainage pipe and hit the left a arm snapping the a arm and bending the hell outa the push rod.
I was shocked that the plastic axle was fine and only the upper a arm was broke and the push rod had a new 60* bend to it




yeah it is. Look at the slash, rustler vxl, stampede vxl, e-revo brushless. All have plastic drivelines.
doesn't mean they don't break.