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E-maxx Brushless or Brushed
I have a 14.4 E-maxx that I would like to make brushless. Everything is stock at the moment.
I have a Novak Havoc and Novak 10.5 sensored motor. Will this fit and work in the T-maxx? I am not looking for all out speed, but just something to play around with. The E-maxx likes to eat the stock 550 motors. I have gone through a few of them so far. I have the following battery packs that I would be using. 4ea 3300mah NIMH packs 2ea 3600mah Lipo packs I know this is a rather heavy truck, just wanted to see what my options are. If I wanted to stay brushed, what are the best motors that will work with the stock ESC? |
well if its the older e-maxx ull probly have to do a little work to the tranny. i had a problem with my rustler wen i put a bigger motor in it.
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your truck will be underpowered with a novak 10.5. You might try to get a single vxl system. This way you will have good power but not enough to break stuff.
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KERSHAW DESIGNS E-maxx Dual 970-sized Motor Conversion Kit fits the old E-max and its only a $80 investment.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up. Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power. I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch. If you where to go the brushless route you going to have to get an MMM or equivilent and prob want to swith out to Li-Po to get runtimes so that's around $300+$300= $600 at least once you add up 2 3s Li-Po's balancer charger esc motors ect not to mention upgrading the drive line. Brushless will be hella faster and it would be and awesome truck but its also an expensive investment. |
Originally Posted by infernus1986
(Post 5728479)
KERSHAW DESIGNS E-maxx Dual 970-sized Motor Conversion Kit fits the old E-max and its only a $80 investment.
http://204.186.93.64/Dual970Conversion.htm Hands down the simplest easiest conversion you can do and you keep the vehicle waterproof and these motors will definately hold up. Keep the stock esc and with your batts you will have alota fun and shouldn't break much as far as the driveline with the increased power. I can personally vouch for the quality and performance of the stuff from KD ive used the 700-HO's and they where top notch. |
I've been running S600 Ferrite motors in my old 3905 Emaxx. They are only $16 and I've gotten about 2x the life than a stock Titan so far and they are still doing fine. I did break them in as instructions directed. I never broke ina Titan.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles. |
Originally Posted by Duster_360
(Post 5731073)
I've been running S600 Ferrite motors in my old 3905 Emaxx. They are only $16 and I've gotten about 2x the life than a stock Titan so far and they are still doing fine. I did break them in as instructions directed. I never broke ina Titan.
These will be the last brushed motors mine runs - its BL ready. I've upgraded to 16.8v diffs, UE TI center drives, 3.3 bulks, wheel driveshafts, knuckles and turnbuckles. The S600s were strong enough to twist the rear drive axles. |
Originally Posted by CaseyDDR
(Post 5731444)
if their is any plastic in your driveline, your truck isn't BL ready :)
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Originally Posted by snowboard094
(Post 5731532)
:weird: yeah it is. Look at the slash, rustler vxl, stampede vxl, e-revo brushless. All have plastic drivelines.
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Originally Posted by CaseyDDR
(Post 5731604)
:rolleyes: doesn't mean they don't break.
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Originally Posted by CaseyDDR
(Post 5731444)
if their is any plastic in your driveline, your truck isn't BL ready :)
The same drive axles are used on the BL E-Revo and they seem to be doing pretty well running the 6S MM 2200 Combo. These are the axles I'm using on my FLM EXT EMaxx -they've done fine running Quark125b (heat sink modd) and 8XL and now a MMM combo. Diff of opinion, but I'm staying with what's working. I haven't broken anything in either truck except a revo diff output - and that was a metal shaft. |
Originally Posted by snowboard094
(Post 5731674)
CVD kits for any of these trucks are way less strong then the plastic drivelines.
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Originally Posted by CaseyDDR
(Post 5732431)
This has to be the dumbest thing I've read on this forum yet :/
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I'll put my money on I've been doing this longer than you snowboard, and if you aren't driving like a complete moron you wouldn't bend a CVD. I've NEVER had an issue with them in ANY car I've used. There is a reason they are used in high end cars and not plastic, but I guess you aren't bright enough to figure that out.
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meh i never broke the 2.5 maxx axles or drive shafts tho they did get a lil twisted.
The 3.3 plastics they hold up great with the redesign of the splines they don't twist. I hear of ppl breaking them all the time but iv yet to have it happen on any of the 4 traxxas trucks ive owned/worked on. one time my buddy tried to drive his E-revo through a drainage pipe and hit the left a arm snapping the a arm and bending the hell outa the push rod. I was shocked that the plastic axle was fine and only the upper a arm was broke and the push rod had a new 60* bend to it |
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