T/E Maxx Thread
 

A thread for all you T/E Maxx owners so you can talk about anything Maxx. I just got my emaxx this week. This truck is unlike anything I have ever driven. Since it is almost 4 in the morning.....i must go to bed....

i got my tmaxx in the fall of 2000 and had some problems getting it running but that was because i was new to nitro. since then i have added a few things like brushed aluminum skid plates, powerline blue aluminum chassis braces, and powerline aluminum bulkheads front and rear. and also rpm bulkhead braces. im probably going to get a receiver pack, proline suspension kit and mip 360 stinger exhaust. i love the truck, how bout everyone else?:)

I love mine. I'll be getting the proline suspension kit too. Others features im adding are the aluminum chassis, aluminum braces, titanium skidplates, etc. Of course, the Modified motors will be added also :D.

I havent found any terrain that could stop the emaxx....except for the counter at hobbyland which broke the bulkheads and skidplate, but i don't think that really counts as terrain...

ya if i had an emaxx id definatly go for the mod motors too.

after about 10 runs did you tmaxx front end sag down? on mine the front end only rebounds halfway....:confused:

Al,yes it did i think i need to put fresh shock oil in the shocks. The suspension is not a springy

I'm going to do that when it gets real bad. I dont think it helped when I bent that shock shaft and some oil leaked out...LOL, oh well :cool:

We can't be the only two that have a maxx truck here....where are the rest of you maxx people at :confused:

ya cmon everyone we wanna hear about your trucks.

stinks about the bent shock shaft, that will help oil leaks.:(

First of all, DITCH THE STOCK SHOCKS!!! They suck bigtime...the plastic bodies just do nothing to help performance. Second, throw AWAY the stock 2055 steering servo. That is another weak point of the truck. On the T-Maxx, you can move the 2055 over to the throttle and throw out the 2018 servo.

Modena - Tip: Remove the 2-speed servo and all it's related parts. Push the '2-speed lever' -IN- and install a screw into the chassis to keep it in 2nd gear. Now, install faster motors and re-gear the truck slightly for the taller gearset.

I did this on mine (of course, I'm running 2 8x2 TI motors). You will STILL have TONS of accelleration (my truck just flips itself over if I pin it from a standstill) and still have the top end (since you will be using the 2nd speed gearset). Best of both worlds.

the stock shocks work fine..change the oil to 70-80 and put a 1/4 spacer to limit shock travel and lower the truck for racing..keep the aluminum parts to a min. so you truck doesn`t end up being a 1 ton tank..it doesn`t really need any except for the lower braces and skid plates..switch to a 5 cell AAA (triple) NCMH battery(TMAXX),get a faster and stronger steering servo and a quicker throttle servo(TMAXX)

I'm thinking about getting a set of theses shocks from Progressive Suspension

http://www.progressivesuspension.com...ock_yellow.jpg

I like that BEEFY shock shaft....of course, the body and the reservoir will have to be factory team BLUE.

Thanks for the tips on the two speed TPhalen. I will definitnity be doing that when I get the new motors. Has anyone tried the Maxx motors by trinity? I think the pro motor is 12/D...

sprinter - I'll be putting some of that oil in my shocks this week. Unfortunately, I work in a LHS and ordered all the hardcore parts for myself...maybe the new motors will get it moving with all thsoe aluminum parts on there

well..if you have to parts coming you might as well use them..but you can lighten them up with some well place holes..use a hand drill,I removed weight off my Maxx like that.I use the stock shocks(lighter than alum,just not as cool) and never had a problem..the more your maxx weighs the harder it is for it to accell,stop,turn jump and it is also harder on all the parts that have to support the extra weight...lighter is faster,longer run times

The problem with the stock shocks, is they leak. Even our demo E-maxx at work leaks just from driving it around at work. Our display T-maxx has leaked slightly just from people pushing the truck down. The Aluminum shocks are definately a good idea to get.

okay..I havn`t had that problem yet.my daughter and I both race them here in Pa,I have a Novarossi on mine and a Picco on hers.M8 radios,258 servos..they work pretty well

Thats cool, My brother hasn't had a problem with his shocks leaking yet either, i just checked, but he only has about 6-7 tanks in it... but unfortunately, every other T/E maxx i have seen leaks. Usually not major, but still enough to matter after a couple runs.

The stock Rustler shocks do the same...

The biggest problem is that they are plastic. Over time (and heavy use) the shaft will not continue to move up and down...instead it will elongate the hole in the plastic shock bottom and the o-rings inside will no longer be able to keep the oil in. As in sprintr's case, there are exceptions....I've seen guys that have run their Maxx's for months and the stock shocks are still holding the ORIGINAL oil!!! Others (like mine), emptied the first day!!!!

Lighter is faster, I agree, but, in the case of the shocks, you might consider these as one of the ONLY aluminum upgrades on your truck.

Has anyone had a problem breaking shock towers??? I just took my emaxx to the local BMX track and the shock tower broke on a hard landing. Should I get the hardcore aluminum ones? I really wanted to get the proline suspension kit...but those towers are plasitic and i wont get it if the shock towers break all the time...

The shock towers are weak. But, you have to remember, it's a 10lb truck landing from, I'm assuming, pretty high. I'd rather replace the shock tower than the bulkheads (which you will have to do if you put aluminum towers on!). RPM or ProLines I think are a much more pliable plastic....they should be a little stronger than the stocky units...

I don't know... bulkheads in my mind are a good idea to get replaced. Those are the only stock parts my brother had broken on his, and they are one of the best selling parts at my LHS.

In the case of my brother, he thinks he cracked it on a bad landing, then broke it the landing after ( which he says was perfect :rolleyes: riight ;) )

-Troy

The Hardcore Aluminum Bulkheads are on order as we speak :) And I'll be putting the proline suspension kit on with their shocktowers that appear to be stronger.

I didn't even see the landing because I was standing on the announcer stand on the bmx track, and it dissapeared behind a 8 foot tabletop...then when it wouldn't move we assumed it was upside down. When my friend went to pick it up he realized it was broke, D'oH!

Anyone tried using Novak's Super Rooster ESC in their E-Maxx??? I'm planning to use my Super Rooster but could I connect the two packs in series to get 14.4V and still work without frying the ESC??? According to Doug's E-Maxx FAQ it would work? Any opinions? Thanks.

Impulsive - yes, it'll work. BUT, if you want to try some MORE power, try running TWO ESC's and 8-10 cells per side...

Does the new novak EVX speed control that comes with the emaxx have a motor limit? I hope not...

not sure, but it will only handle 14.4volt motors...ie, stock, the trinity monster motors, or the reedy badmaxx motors. you will not be able to use any normal 05 size motor.

Modena - All the Hardcore parts are awesome, but you pay for what you get.. definately nicly machined pieces. Guys around here have been going with PowerLine parts. They aren't as expensive, and the machining isnt as nice.. but they do the job. I'm tempted to get some aluminum TC wheels for show :)

Tony - Happy Birthday ;)

Thanks Troy...

Ok....burning question. Let's say money is no object. Let's say I have this T-Maxx and I'm bored with the .12/.15 powerplants on the market. Let's say I want to convert to .21 power. What, in some of the .21 power people's opinions, is the best .21 motor available that has GREAT power yet easy to tune!!!

I will be switching to the Hardcore .21 conversion, and decidingly building a bulletproof truck, gears and all.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!

TPhalen - I was planning on using the lowest wind Trinity monster motor to put in it, just wanted to make sure they wouldn't fry the speedo.

TSR6 - I also believe you get what you pay for. Thats why I only buy top of the line stuff now. The employee discount from working in a LHS helps wonders on the wallet ;) ;)

Modena...heh heh, you must be talking about the E-Maxx. I have mine readied with twin 8x2 and 12 cells....it's got some power already!!!!

I was actually talking about the T-Maxx...the gas version. Thanks though!

Tony - Most of the .21 conversions i have seen ( including my uncle's ) use the Picco .21, in whatever variant they choose ( OFNA, Trinity, Ect ). I've run the OFNA/Picco, and it tuned fine for me, so i don't see any problems there. My uncle just droped it off saying he can't tune it, but i havent run it since he droped it off, so i don't know what the problem is yet.

Modena AL - I agree to a certain point on the discount. It rocks, but it hurts my RC'ing schedule, so it may not last long.

I was refering to this with my post...I hadn't seen your post about the Tmaxx when I put it up. I don't know what would make a good .21 engine for the Tmaxx...I'm not the gas expert at my hobbystore :(

Yeah, I'm going to tell them if i can't race at all the races this year, SEE YA!!! I've put too much money in my cars to alternate with the other person that races at the store of who goes to the races and who doesnt.

Bingo... I'm at that point. I'm accually calling another guy in about 5 minutes, see if i can swap days and work Sat., If i can't... I may not be there.... I also have spent too much to have it restrict me in my racing..

There is another race in late January that i don't have off for... and i won't be at work... nomatter what...

If all else fails, you could always use the world famous excuse and tell them that you are "sick" ;) ;)

oops....sorry Modena!!! :p

Ya, the EVX ESC won't handle anything like that. Just swap out the ESC for a good LRP or Novak unit....you won't be disappointed. The power is pretty crazy....

Ok, thanks TPhalen. don't want to fry a perfectly good speedo control. I'm thinking twin super roosters or twin TC2s!!!!

The EVX isn't made for regular motors... i think on the package it says MotorLimit - 550 + or something to that effect... I remember the guy i work with joking about that. ;)

Twin TC2's would be cool, but i would go with SuperRoosters to still have reverse ( and reverse lockout option ).

Yeah, super roosters are cool....but they are sooooooooo big!!! Maybe when i take out the two speed servo there will be more room to put them :)

What wt. shock oil do the shocks have in them? What if i increased it to....say 60 wt. would that help it absorb big jumps better, like the one that broke my shocktower, and prevent that from happening again. What does everyone think?

TPhalen: I just got the Super Rooster. Currently I'm running the stock twin Titan 550 motors in parallel to the Super Rooster running on 1 pack (6cell). I haven't tried 12-cells yet. How do I wire them??? This is my idea but haven't (still afraid) to try: Parallel the 550 motors (as connected to my SR) and series the two packs (to get 12 cells)??? Wouldn't I fry my S/R since it says 7-10 cells limit. Also please suggest pinions to use. Thanks.

I also have this ESP E/T-Maxx alum. bumper and headlight kit. The instructions say to use a 9V battery however the lights are very DIM. Any recommendation???

What would be the correct way to connect the steering linkages and rear toe linkage? When I got my E-Maxx, whenever I compress (push down) on the suspension, both front and rear increases camber as the suspension compresses. Also, what wt. shock oil you recommend? Any suggestion?

Thanks to all!

I think that you have to use two superroosters. Novak used to make a combo that had two roosters and a y-adapter...but they discontinued it when the came out with the new EVX. I heard somewhere that if you want to use more cells than recomened, that you can prevent the speedo from frying by using a reciver pack.