New Jack
Good engine
If you get an engine with a slide
carb, I can get you a killer slide
carb linkage kit fr your truck.
:cool:

CoastalTony: I'm not sure if it is available with a slide carb.:confused: :weird: :confused: !!! I hope it does though, that's what I have on my MP 7.5 & XXX-NT engines!!!!!:D :D :D

CoastalTony: What type shaft engine is on the T-Maxx (haven't tore it down yet to find out), the reason I ask is because that engine I told you that I want is a Standard Shaft only!!! I hope it is not a Pilot Shaft engine!!!!!:confused: :weird: :confused:

New Jack
Standard shaft
:deathstar

SWWWWEEEEEEEEEETTTTT!!!!!!! :nod: :nod: :nod:

what mod motors do you guys run in your e-maxx's

I'm running 2 9x2's. And 20 cells.

It's pretty fast. (See my Sig for pix)

CoastalTony: You've got mail!!!!:nod: :nod: :nod:

Renegade
Question for you. Are
your on-road tires
pre-mounted?
Reason for the
question, I am getting ready to do a
Yellow Kodak Sierra, with yellow
Pro-Line Velosity rims. How much CA is
required on these? :tire:
There are guys at the
track running E-Maxxs with stock
un-glued rims & tires. :confused:

CoastalTony: I got the Body in that I'm gonna run to race with, it's the new Trinity Truck body!!!! It's pretty sweet & so far it's the only body I know that comes with a spoiler for the T-Maxx besides the GMC body from Pro-line!!!!:nod:

New Jack
Show me a picture of the truck body.
I have Trinitys 190mm carpet & asphalt
Stratus bodies, the 200mm Stratus
bodies & the Reflex bodies but I
haven't seen the monster truck body.
I am doing a Pro-Line Sierra in flor.
yellow, with a NASCAR Kodak theme.
I will send you a pic:spidey:
Hey, I was looking at eBay, and saw a
real nice Spiderman body $$$!!!:spidey:

New Jack
I forgot to tell you that I also
noticed a throttle linkage reverse
kit, on a 3 day dutch auction on eBay.
If you are getting a rotary carb on the
OS, you may want to get one. He was
asking $15.00, I think.:cool:

CoastalTony:Cool, thanks for the info.!!! Yeah that Spiderman body is Sweet, you can get it from www.parmapse.com they also have Bulldozer & Grave Digger bodies as well as others, but Spiderman IS my all time Favorite Superhero!!! :spidey: :spidey: :spidey: As for the Trinity body, I don't have a scanner not to mention my body is still clear, you can see it on www.teamtrinity.com & on the opening screen put your cursor on bodies & then reference will come up below & click on it, I really think they are gonna do well with thier bodies, I have an MP 7.5 as well & think that the Wasp body they have for it is pretty sweet as well!!!!:D :D :D

CoastalTony: If you have not seen the new Trinity T-Maxx body it's in the new R/C Car Action on pages 11 & 27!!! Like I said I was gonna get that Pro-Line GMC body 'til I saw this one, looks a little more Racey to me!!!:lol: :lol: :lol:

New Jack
I have Julys issue, and they don't
show the truck.
You might have done better with the
Trinity body. I am having a bit of a
struggle with the GMC Sierra. Front
body clips are wierd, had to cut a
bunch of the rear left side for the
fuel cap. My OS is a pull-start, and I
got to cut more of the back out for
that.
It will look KILLER when I get it done:cool:

CoastalTony:It's actually in the August issue, I just got it in the mail yesterday!!! :sneaky:

New Jack
I have a dozen on the way from New
Jersey.
Let me know when you get online, I
have something to show you:cool:

CoastalTony: I'll be online again @ around 8:10-8:40 my time which 9:10-9:40 your time, or you can send it to me if you can @ [email protected] !!!!!!

CoastalTony: I take it that you like that body if you've got a dozen on the way!!!! :D

is it worth upgradin chassis?
 

is it worth upgrading my stock chassis to a dynamite chassis. i could get it for cheap. waht other upgrades can i do to help my car out. so far skidplates, lower chassis braces, rpm arms, new springs, aluminum bulkheads front only, mip cvds all around, dynamite pipe, titanium turnbuckles, what else should i upgrade?

Re: is it worth upgradin chassis?
 

Anthrocide: It sounds like you've done quite a bit of upgrading already!!! I would probably recommend: Pro-Line Suspension kit, Traxxas Forward only conversion #4994X, Dynamite Alum. steering bellcranks DYN7608B (blue), Steel or Titanium screws, better shocks unless you have the Big Bores, High TQ/Speed steering servo, other than that it sounds like you have it pretty much covered!!! As for the chassis I don't see anything wrong with the stock one unless you run a .21 engine!!!!:D :nod: :D

Anthro
Sounds like you got it going on!
Are you racing on-road, or off-road?
I can help for on-road:tire:

Anyone
Help, I need some aluminum bumpers for
this monster. The stock bumpers
s*&k, Trinity blue bumpers don't cut
it, I need some
orange ,
orred aluminum
bumpers for this beast.
Every time I look at it, it says "help
me":cry:

CoastalTony: You're right that thing does look Sweet, I haven't found any orange or red bumpers of any kind or any material from plastic to titanium, mostly either silver/chrome or blue!!!! I will definately be on the look out & let you know if I find anything!!!!:D

Anthrocide: One more thing I forgot to mention, that is if you race off-road anyways pick up a good set of Rubber Sealed Bearings (they are about the best you can get for offroad, no gritty feeling from dirt getting into them!!!), you can get a good set from www.teambluestar.com , but I would mention to you to try & win them off of ebay, much cheaper that way!!!!!:nod:

Coastaltony!!!!!!
 

this is my onroad t-maxx. i have the rad rc 3 speed in it right and runninng 1/8 scale tires. what tips could you give me? i have sway bars, the bell cranks you mentions but no upgraded shock plan on getting some soon, and a high torque steering servo.

Anthro
Read back into the thread
The Pro-Line suspension kit, tires,
and good shocks are the key.:tire:
I have a spare set of AE blue shocks
if you want them.:deathstar
I also have a set of pre-mounted
slicks for sale:
:tire: :tire: :tire: :tire:

I'm getting the traxxas forward only shaft but what improvements do you notice? I'm going to race it (as soon as I upgrade my engine) so will the forward only conversion make my lap times go down.
At this moment my LHS is fitting a hotbodies .18 into my T (crank cutting, flywheel etc) I chose the .18 because it's half way between a .15 and a .21 and doesn't require a conversion or different chassis:D, anyone else tried the HB .18?
I will be racing on grass (short) with very few jumps but plenty of corners, what should I change about my setup, ride height, oil .....
thanx

LouisB:it will be plent of extra punch as all the centrifical force will be going forward only at all times, not to mention the extra weight you will lose when pulling out all those uneeded gears from the tranny!!!! You should use some heavy weight shock oil, not too heavy if you have jumps though other wise you will be bouncin' like Tigger :lol: !!! Get some better shocks as well if you can afford it!!!! Also a Pro-Line suspension kit a MUST HAVE!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,
I've just spent loads on spares, engine, fuel etc etc etc and don't have much left at present. I have put metal shock caps on and have big bore shocks from my now retired electric rustler. I have some 70wt oil from tc racing and it shold be OK, there's usually only 1 jump (small) and a rumble strip. I have trinity stiff springs.
Do you think that the stock shafts would survive the power of a .18 and te Maxx Performance kit? or should I use CVDs

LouisB: The Big Bores should be just fine with the Pro-Line suspension kit!!!! As for the CVD's I recommend but you might be able to get my with stock for now, check out Dynamite they have set of cheaper CVD's than MIP, that should be just as good also they have CVD's for the Driveshafts for the same price $37.99 versus $55.00 from MIP, just go to www.horizonhobby.com & for name brand put in Dynamite then Nitro truck & car & search through there, it's in there some where!!!!!!:lol: :nod: :lol:

I'll go for low ground clearence to stop rollovers on the high grip grass tracks because the stocktires really dig in, do you think that proline road tires would work on grass to give more predictable handling?
There's a good UK (where I live) company that sells T-Maxx hop ups and they have drive shafts for £25, that's $39 (without the expensive shipping)
They are universals, not cvds but look pretty strong.
Check them out at www.cmldistribution.co.uk/fast_trax.htm

LouisB: The Pro-line suspension kit will most definately give you low ground clearance with better handling, it makes your truck an inch to an inch & a half wider for better handling, not to mention it also comes with Lunsford Titanium tie rods!!!! As for the Pro-line road rages they should work if it is a high bite track!!!!!:D

New Jack: would the dynamite driveshafts work with the Pro-line kit, i thought that the shafts had to be a different length :confused: and only MIP made the right ones?
What type of rechargable receiver pack should I get, 3x2 or 5 in a row and which company makes the best ones?
I'll tell you how my Maxx goes once I've got it back and broken in the engine:D

Louis8
Stock shafts work fine. I still have
them on mine. Look back at this thread:deathstar

LouisB: As far as the technical On-road T-Maxx, I would say Coastal Tony is your Advice man, I have mine set up for off-road racing!!!! I'm not sure but Sway bars me even work:weird: :confused: :weird: Also I'm not sure about the Dynamite driveshafts, I'm glad you asked!! I will contact them & find out!!!!!:nod:

I got my Maxx back yesterday, with the new engine and forward only shaft:D
I followed my LHS owner's break-in instructions (he has the same engine in his T-Maxx). Started up on the first pull, 8 half tanks stationary and another 8 half tanks on pavement, it stayed sooooooooo cool:cool: after half a tank that I kept on going, it never stalled!
I spent a couple more tanks setting the 2 speed and then had some fun. The HB is a really good choice for a maxx, with the forward only shaft and .18 torque it accelerated like a rocket, it is also really easy to tune and works fine between 4 and 3 turns out on the carb.
The best test was a grassy bank by my house, 8' high and this steep (see diagram on right) / ;) it's even hard for me to get up. with the stock engine it would make part of the way up with a long run up. With the new engine I took it up to the bank with the front wheels just touching the face, nailed the throttle and it flew right up to the top, no complaining:eek:
My drive shafts have held together fine, i'll wait 'til i break one
If you need a new engine for your T-maxx get a Hot Bodies .18

LouisB...the 3x2 pack fits perfectly in the stock battery box with no mods...i would go with a competition products 1100mah battery and if you go that far save yourself some heartache and get a new ON-OFF switch with a charge plug on it so you can charge the batt without having to take it out...i have this setup on my MAXX and works flawlessly

Thanks myclod, i'll get a 3x2, but probably from a different company because competition products don't have a distributor where i live. I already have a futaba switch with charging jack :)
What servo are you using? I haven't changed mine yet (I know I should) but I've been using a Hi tech 625 in my RC10B3 with good results and was wondering if the 645 would be good in my T-Maxx

the 625 or 645 work VERY well in the TMAXX, with the stock servo sitting still you can hardly turn the wheels with the hitec they SNAP to the left and right...in my opinion...EXCELLENT choice for the TMAXX either way you go.

I think I'll get a 645 next time I go to my LHS, and a battery pack:D
What charger should I use for the receiver pack, overnight wall charger? I have an adjustable amp rate charger for electric racing and it can charge down to 0.5 A, also what is a good peak voltage cut-off (in mV for the entire pack) and amp rate for a 1100?
Thanks