New traxxas e-maxx
#196
Anybody have any good suggestions on axles? I have sheared of stock(revo) and MIP cvds. I'm running a spool in the rear and keep breaking axles and diff outdrives. I'm powering it with a velineon motor on a mm esc and it runs great, and w/ 3s lipo it is just stupid powerful.
Last edited by sir miles; 02-02-2008 at 05:10 AM.
#197
sharpe351: what gear combo are you using right now? My gear combo now it 68/16 & 68/17 but still having a thermal. Last race I use 68/17. Ive managed to finish the race but as I temp my esc its 160+f, still dangerous. Theres this one heat, after passing the transponder line on a finish your lap call, my esc thermaled. Lucky pass but hard on my HV. Can you give me an ideal racing gear combo? TIA!
Factory spur gear with 16 tooth pinion gear. I have 17 tooth but never used it. If your still thermaling with 17 tooth try 18 tooth. It seems kinda high, but it might work. How is the driving on the dirt with Lipo/brushless? It it tweaked or is it controllable? Also, if you are in a really tight setting (course) try going lower, like a 15 or 14 tooth. Your esc may be thermaling because you're on and off the throttle alot. A lower gear may be your best bet. The only way to check is to try it.
rockstar81,
drop the spool and go gear diff. the reason your breaking parts isn't the power. Its the spool.
#198
sirmiles,
Factory spur gear with 16 tooth pinion gear. I have 17 tooth but never used it. If your still thermaling with 17 tooth try 18 tooth. It seems kinda high, but it might work. How is the driving on the dirt with Lipo/brushless? It it tweaked or is it controllable? Also, if you are in a really tight setting (course) try going lower, like a 15 or 14 tooth. Your esc may be thermaling because you're on and off the throttle alot. A lower gear may be your best bet. The only way to check is to try it.
Factory spur gear with 16 tooth pinion gear. I have 17 tooth but never used it. If your still thermaling with 17 tooth try 18 tooth. It seems kinda high, but it might work. How is the driving on the dirt with Lipo/brushless? It it tweaked or is it controllable? Also, if you are in a really tight setting (course) try going lower, like a 15 or 14 tooth. Your esc may be thermaling because you're on and off the throttle alot. A lower gear may be your best bet. The only way to check is to try it.
#199
#200
well, you may be doing something wrong. My E has a 4.5R HV Maxx setup and I have only broken 1 tooth on the ring gear for the diff. I've probably put 20+ packs through the truck already and I replaced the rear ring and pinion with Robinson Racing ring and pinion. No breakage since repair/ upgrade. I also use Traxxas axle shafts and have NO problems. Also, use some 8-10,000 wt oil in the rear diff. The thick lube should help take the impact stress off the spider gears in the diff.
#201
well, you may be doing something wrong. My E has a 4.5R HV Maxx setup and I have only broken 1 tooth on the ring gear for the diff. I've probably put 20+ packs through the truck already and I replaced the rear ring and pinion with Robinson Racing ring and pinion. No breakage since repair/ upgrade. I also use Traxxas axle shafts and have NO problems. Also, use some 8-10,000 wt oil in the rear diff. The thick lube should help take the impact stress off the spider gears in the diff.
#202
Wow you hit the nail on the head, I use 8k in the front and 10k in the rear. Not that I don't appreciate your suggestions but I have tried just about everything and still tear up something in the drivetrain about every 3-4 runs (I get about 30-35 minutes out of the lipo). Any tougher hop-ups? FYI I lossen the slipper about a full turn and it doesn't happen but it slips for roughly 60+ feet when I get on it, slow acceleration.
#203
I am geared at 68/20, I have tried 68/15-22. My system still runs really cool don't want to gear it down any that just makes it even easier to put on its lid. It runs awesome if I could keep from breaking parts. I have run the slipper at varying degrees of tightness ranging from about 1/8 turn from tight to a full turn, still breaks stuff up till about a half turn loose then it still breaks sometimes. I would like to race it this summer but can't get it to stay in one piece. I'm just running stock axles from diff to trans, haven't had any breaks with those yet. Also I had it geared 68/16 and snapped both rear axles on takeoff with about 1/3 of a turn from tight on the slipper. The main things broken have been inner halves of the rear axles, diff outdrives, and the wheel outdrives?, spur gears, and diff gears. The truck rolls really easily with the pinion off and I have the pinion spaced right per traxxas. Any other thoughts?
#204
Tech Rookie
My evx2 didn't go up in smoke, but its over voltage safety goes nuts over my 7 cell batteries. Its going back to traxxas, but whats disapointing is the guy at traxxas that I talked to tried to tell me that it was normal and I should just live with it.......I had heard such good things about their support too.
#205
Oh man. Another sad story about the EVX. I hope they do good for you. My 7cells are just on their way. I hope I don't get any problems. But, from the experience of the other guys here, it is a "normal" thing.
#206
I am geared at 68/20, I have tried 68/15-22. My system still runs really cool don't want to gear it down any that just makes it even easier to put on its lid. It runs awesome if I could keep from breaking parts. I have run the slipper at varying degrees of tightness ranging from about 1/8 turn from tight to a full turn, still breaks stuff up till about a half turn loose then it still breaks sometimes. I would like to race it this summer but can't get it to stay in one piece. I'm just running stock axles from diff to trans, haven't had any breaks with those yet. Also I had it geared 68/16 and snapped both rear axles on takeoff with about 1/3 of a turn from tight on the slipper. The main things broken have been inner halves of the rear axles, diff outdrives, and the wheel outdrives?, spur gears, and diff gears. The truck rolls really easily with the pinion off and I have the pinion spaced right per traxxas. Any other thoughts?
#207
Are you running stock wheels and tires, or are they something like Proline "Big Joe" tires. Somtimes tires make all the difference. It could be the traction of a "big" tire tearing up the drivetrain. I use Hpi premounted mud mashers and only started with issues after putting them on (i.e. broken rear gears). It sounds like the gear is high, but speed should be ballistic. It also could be the 11.1 Lipo battery delivering all that power causing the broken parts issue. You may want to try to dial down the esc, if possible, to change your throttle profile. Make the profile bring the power on slower and try to tighten your slipper back up and test it. That change may make all the difference. I know it is aggrivating, but the only way to find out what these beasts can handle is trial and error. Test and retest, break parts and move forward.
#208
Tech Apprentice
SO should i get the e-maxx even though im not going brushless yet? I have all the extra shocks from my t-maxx i had and some other things and was wondering what batteries should i get *good packs* plus i have a Dynamite Prophet PLus is this good or should i get a different charger? Also do you think this charger messed up my MLST batteries.
#209
Reptilesnr/c, I would still go with the E its gonna be enough for you and you can always upgrade later if need b, as for the batteries i would go with the Venom 8.4v 4200Mah.
#210
I have tried most of that, I am running stock tires right now, I have punch control dialed up to 70% in the esc. Any ideas what the people running them as pullers and what not use? I am a firm believer in trial and error but my error bill is mounting (well over $200, scared to add it up) plus my time involved in repairs. This is somewhat new ground for me as all my other rcs have been s/t, buggys, and touring. One run at a time with this one.