Hey everyone! Quick question, how in the heck am I supposed to get the plugs that cover up the holes in the top of the transmission when doing the forward only conversion? I knew this was gonna be hard but jeeze

yeah those plugs are a PITA! more or less why on my post#84 for me it took longer to install those damn things than it did to take off the tranny and install the FOC and re-install the tranny. i believe it worked for me to coat the chamfered edge with a bit of diff or shock oil to lubricate it, then used a 2.5mm or 3mm hex driver and slowly work it into place.

thanks a lot buddy. Your technique worked for one of the plugs, I literally could not get the other plug in no matter what. I half chewed a small piece of gum, and literally put it over the other hole for now. Got the truck all reassembled with the new forward only conversion, new high and low spurs, new 1 and 2 speed shift hubs with bearings, and got the gear mesh good. Everything spins good, but I do have one question. Since it has new gears in the tranny, should it feel slightly notch almost as if it is a differential when I push the truck along the ground? I greased the heck out of the gears in the tranny, and the truck does roll pretty good, it just doesn’t feel quite as free as it used to if that makes sense. Figure the transmission has to break in now

occasionally you may need to shim or remove shims from the center bevel gears within the transmission, when i installed mine, the gear mesh was good with removal of all but one shim on the outside.
i know my most recent diff ended up being pretty tight for some reason, even with shims to try to push it away from the ring gear as much as possible, but still wasnt quite enough, after a run it seemed to break in and rolls smoothly now.

lol definitely creative way to make a plug, i was about 2 flips outs away from saying $#% it and using silicone, but managed to get it in final try.

So, I have two losi xxl2-e's does anyone know what there power limit is? I have a 5th scale motor and a 5th scale esc. What part will break first? The motor i have is a leopard 5692 1090kv it would have to run between 6s and 8s.

that’s pretty much what I want to do with mine for now I’m going to run 6s 2200kv but plan on tossing in a max 6 and motor from xmaxx

cool man, I believe that’s what I did with the shimming. I shimmed the top shaft so the 2 gears are in line with each other, and I seem to recall removing 1 shim by the remaining bevel gear. It’s in the truck now, hopefully it’s good to go. I must have been over working on the truck last nigh, I also think I’m going to get gorilla tape and just cover the remaining hole, not even going to mess with that remaining plug

Oh an snowman, glad your diff got broken in properly and works good. I have an aluminum housing, heavy duty diff case, bevel gears,and new ring gear, and heavy duty outdrives in my parts stash. Might try my hand at assembling it and just having a nice, heavy duty backup diff on hand if I need it. Well actually... knowing rc cars, more like when I need it.

Hey there everyone, so I acquired an lst2 gear cover with the additional clear plastic housing. So I have to take off the spur gears and clutch bell to put the shield on?

Yep.

Well guys, I have some bad news about my engine. So this thing has been an inconsistent nightmare, I just can not dial it in properly. I’ve ran 4 big tanks total, and today it was doing the nutty low end lean bog(low speed and high speed needles almost flush, nowhere near line and it just will not idle. So I’m sitting there frustrated, just looking at my engine when I notice brown oil all over my gas tank, and air filter tube that connects to the carb. Upon further inspection I see this
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ba5f131c2.jpeg
May be hard to see , but north of the glow plug you can see brown oil pooled up on the head button.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3fb982661.jpeg
Super hard to see but my engine head is coated in oil and it’s all over the engine head screws.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...318d675ae.jpeg
Another shot of the oil covered head screws

So anyway, I believe I have a defective engine. The oil appears to be sweeping out of the head screws and the head button itself. The oil is not coming out of the glow plug hole, and my glow plug hole is definitely not stripped ,nor would I ever tighten it enough to strip. This is pretty disappointing to spend 230$ on an engine and to have it have a defective head button right out of the box. No wonder I can’t get a tune on it. I ordered this engine from absolute hobby’s, not sure if I should contact them or novarossi directly but I am 99.9 sure my motor, or at least the head button, is indeed defective. So bummed right now guys

That really sucks. Contact Absolute and see what they say...

thats crazy, can honestly say i have no experienced that before, hope they get you taken care of, they should. at least now you know what it was i guess.

Have you checked whether the head screws are tight enough?

I sure did, that was the first thing I checked. They are tight as can be