Emaxx blown diffs! Multiple.
#16
Cannot find::: K maxx diff cases.
I need ALL of the parts to build a rear differential.
I don't like the alloy bulkheads at all.Yes,I have chassis twist.
I don't even have a plastic diff in my stash anymore.
I need ALL of the parts to build a rear differential.
I don't like the alloy bulkheads at all.Yes,I have chassis twist.
I don't even have a plastic diff in my stash anymore.
#17
I can find Integy cases.NOT Kmaxx cases. Integy rear case on my truck,now.
There used to be "Snoopy" here.snoopmaxx

We got along fine. Not to say that we don't get along. I play nice.
I'm on 5 forums and I never flame anyone.
There used to be "Snoopy" here.snoopmaxx

We got along fine. Not to say that we don't get along. I play nice.
I'm on 5 forums and I never flame anyone.
#18
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,049
From: Long Island, NY
Blazerss is (one?) of the guy(s) behind KMaxx Kustoms.
https://www.rctech.net/forum/members...rss-72621.html
Kmaxx Kustoms hopups
https://www.facebook.com/KmaxxKustoms/
https://www.rctech.net/forum/members...rss-72621.html
Kmaxx Kustoms hopups
https://www.facebook.com/KmaxxKustoms/
#20
#22
#23
Next question: What do I use to protect the out drives if the out drives on the diff has 11 mm diameter ones?I have used fingers from rubber gloves B-4 but they go away if a LITTLE oil gets on them and they are terrible against UV rays from the sunshine. I have made ones from shrink tube and they work only fair to keep dirt out.
I found REALLY good ones for my 1/10 scale: Durango ones.
I'll be using CVD/dog bones.
Some 1/8th scale ones will do,I guess.
I should have some for the center shaft as well.
Monster R/C is out of the good stuff!
I found REALLY good ones for my 1/10 scale: Durango ones.

I'll be using CVD/dog bones.
Some 1/8th scale ones will do,I guess.
I should have some for the center shaft as well.
Monster R/C is out of the good stuff!
#25
I have used graphite lube B-4,but it flies off.Bicycle chain lube based on WAX is OK. I would rather seal it off from the dirt.
Recommendations?
I just don't want my out drive cups to get eaten out/oval looking.That condition may cause some weird suspension issues,IMO.
#26

I will address that issue when I have it all apart.(NOW).
Braces? Yes.
I'll get some ideas soon. Thank you for that caveat,Sir.
If it wasn't for this community,I would be lost in space.
The RPM towers and bulkheads are very squishy!
Perhaps the FLM parts will help a lot. No,they will.

#27
#1: Out of the "box" the pinion depth was ALL wrong!
#2: There is a place for a dowel alignment pin. I made one.
#3: The supplied input is much longer than I needed but FLM had some shorter ones w/8 mm shaft size!
#4: The supplied diff case bolts are way to short.I'll dig in my parts stash.
#5: The diffs were not greased very well on the ring gear and the happy part was that each diff had way different silicone diff oil installed. It feels like 10 K and 5 K fluid.I'll run it as I feel like it.
Dowels:It's already machined into the case and I used a 10th scale Lunsford camber link and made 2. The actual size of the alignment dowels is 3.18 mm.
The side to side diff clearance was fine but NOT the pinion depth.See pix.
I ordered the shims last week in anticipation of the need.13 X 16 X.2 mm a bag of 10! Required!
This diff has a spiral cut gear set.Unknown brand. Ideas?
Overall,this is a very high-quality pair of units. It is like jewelry!

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Input drive cups:

Click pix for a larger view.
The next question is HOW I can build center drive shafts for this creation.
I would prefer to use splines shafts to make it easier to work on.
I had the correct length one for the rear,but not the front.
I was using plastic drive shafts and I never snapped one. I use MIP CVD steel ones for the shafts to the wheels.

I still need protection boots for the out drives.The shrink tube still lets dirt in there.Suggestions? The out drives are 13 mm in diameter.
Internet descriptions do NOT give the sizes or dimensions of the boots that I will need/want. WL Toys has 'em but they come from Taiwan.
The differential shimming is REQUIRED and I'm all over it.
Center drives?

It looks like I have the rear one figured out,with the shorter FLM input cup:

No,I won't fix my typos.
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#2: There is a place for a dowel alignment pin. I made one.
#3: The supplied input is much longer than I needed but FLM had some shorter ones w/8 mm shaft size!

#4: The supplied diff case bolts are way to short.I'll dig in my parts stash.
#5: The diffs were not greased very well on the ring gear and the happy part was that each diff had way different silicone diff oil installed. It feels like 10 K and 5 K fluid.I'll run it as I feel like it.
Dowels:It's already machined into the case and I used a 10th scale Lunsford camber link and made 2. The actual size of the alignment dowels is 3.18 mm.
The side to side diff clearance was fine but NOT the pinion depth.See pix.
I ordered the shims last week in anticipation of the need.13 X 16 X.2 mm a bag of 10! Required!
This diff has a spiral cut gear set.Unknown brand. Ideas?
Overall,this is a very high-quality pair of units. It is like jewelry!

" target="_blank">
Input drive cups:

Click pix for a larger view.
The next question is HOW I can build center drive shafts for this creation.
I would prefer to use splines shafts to make it easier to work on.
I had the correct length one for the rear,but not the front.
I was using plastic drive shafts and I never snapped one. I use MIP CVD steel ones for the shafts to the wheels.

I still need protection boots for the out drives.The shrink tube still lets dirt in there.Suggestions? The out drives are 13 mm in diameter.
Internet descriptions do NOT give the sizes or dimensions of the boots that I will need/want. WL Toys has 'em but they come from Taiwan.

The differential shimming is REQUIRED and I'm all over it.

Center drives?

It looks like I have the rear one figured out,with the shorter FLM input cup:

No,I won't fix my typos.

" target="_blank">
Last edited by ddd228; 03-02-2018 at 12:24 AM.



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