Emaxx blown diffs! Multiple.
 

I have a very upgraded OLD Emaxx and it blows rear diffs like mad!
The original differentials are NOT made for BL power.
The question is:
Will the BL diffs be better and will I be able to modify the bulkheads to fit?
The XMAXX ones are HUGE!
I use RPM bulk heads.https://i.imgur.com/Txgzi7U.jpg
Maybe the width is too wide to make fit?
Then,there is the axle issue.spacing,etc.:deathstar

I have a set of FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulks if interested. New condition.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...0e0ad21c06.jpg

ddd whats your setup. from tires to batteries also motor,..

I have an original Emaxx,the early one that runs on 5S,1650 KV Neu,longer chassis,no center diff.
https://i.imgur.com/9ehMxmQ.jpg
Old Emaxx is a 3906?
I may go back to 4S.
<a href="http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_zpsdwh0xcur.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t345/ddd228/temporary_zpsdwh0xcur.jpg~original" border="0" alt=" photo temporary_zpsdwh0xcur.jpg"/></a>

On a very sad note:
http://lancasteronline.com/obituarie...e5afc91f2.html

Dan built my truck!!!!!!

your gonna shread diffs with that on 5 ..4 aint enough. so how much chassis twist you getting?

Xirton,what are those differentials from? I don't like aluminum bulkheads at all.

Chassis twist? A lot!It wheelies on one rear tire.

Any T/E-Maxx Diff will fit the RPM bulkheads without modification. No need to worry about the axles, they will be the same as well.

The BE (Brushless Edition) diffs have additional support for the spider gears via a support for the spider gear cross shafts. They share the same 4 bolt outer diff case that you pictured. None of this will help with the bearing failure you have pictured. Bearing failure equals chewed diff unless you catch it very early.

If you don’t want to upgrade to 1/8 diffs here’s the recipe for the strongest Maxx diff. Aluminum outer diff case, stock internals with quality bearings. The key is to not use the Teflon Washers and substitute them for metal shims. Just shim the pinion until the mesh is the best you can get it. Be sure to install the center shaft or drive cup on the diff pinion when checking mesh. If you can push the pinion in and out (with drive cup or shaft installed on it) remove the drive cup and add shims until it no longer moves in and out with drive cup installed. I did this with an ERevo (same internals, different outer case) and they held up well to a Castle 1520 1600kv on 6s. But again, none of this helps if there’s a bearing failure.

Thanks,Overdriven! I have one more diff that I can swap into an alloy case.There are a few diffs on Ebay,also.I have the early differentials without the spider gear brace.I tried the Teflon shims and you are correct,the shims get eaten alive in there!
Testing yesterday,the gear mesh went WAY away.It will have to come out,again.
Maybe this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-1-1....c100005.m1851

KMaxx Kustoms makes an aluminum diff case that puts 1/8 diffs in your bulkhead of choice.

1/8 buggy

id go with the diffs in post 2..and brace the chassis so twist is less..

There are 3 diffs that have been used in the Maxx platform.
First is the 2.5 style that came on 2.5 TMaxx and 3906 EMaxx

2. Revo style. On the Maxx these added seals to the diff cup, 4 bolt outer diff cases, different size bearings with greater load capacity. These may have metal inserts for the spider gear cross shafts, I forget. Either way they are still used on the TMaxx and Nitro Revo.

3. Brushless Edition. These have metal inserts in the diff cup for the spider gear cross pins and an “I Beam” support that goes in between the spider gears.

If buying a diff from a chop shop, be sure that the listing says it was pulled from a Brushless Edition. Check part numbers if they are given. Then when you receive it pull it apart to make sure you actually got a Brushless Edition Diff. You’re going to want to replace the Teflon shims with metal ones anyway.

I got some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll tear into it this week.
I'll review the diff shim procedure when I'm ready.
My front diff is a spool.

The only real solution is FLM hybrid bulks or Kmaxx diff cases with 1/8 buggy diffs e.g. hyper 7 diffs or HPI vorza diffs. How ever, the e-maxx is really too weak to beginn with so there are endless upgrades you need to do to make it durable for 6s and bashing. I personally gave up on mine and got a savage xl which I also modded. The only down side with the FLM hybrid bulks is that they develop some slope around the pinion bearing area but I haven't had any issues despite the slope that exist and I only drive on 6s with super swapers.