chuchurocket

What is this plastic dish i got with my slider it looks like some type of wing but i dunno it was in the same bag as the shock spacers and the bind plug...also how long do i let the battery charge it has no lights on the charger letting you know its done

curdogexpress

Where do it get these tires or what kind are they.The tires are on the cars that roger posted!

curdogexpress

I got the slider about a hour ago. that thing is sweeeet. the batt. is charging can't wait

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

CHUCHUROCKET - I was wondering the same thing. It looks like you can cut it out and use it as a wicker strip somewhere but the lexan is so thick it makes me think it is just a tray for parts.

CURDOGEXPRESS - You are gona be waiting along time using the plug in charger. Mine took forever and didn't have as good as runtime as everyone elses who used a standard charger. They are sweet though, wait till you drive it its loads of fun.

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

I think that they are actually extra side dam brackets or possibly extra front wing mounts so you can move it from under the front bulkhead. If you look close at it they have premolded hole locations for drilling as well as a defined trim line.

all i know is i am having way to much fun with this out of the box, i have to get new top wing slider bracket, the bend angle is way to tight and it is showing signs of cracking.

what inserts has anyone tried in the right front/rear?

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

The ESC that comes with the RTR... does it have some sort of voltage protection for lipo's? I've noticed that if you take down the battery to low the car will stop as to not completely drain the battery. Anyone have any insite? Also how hot of motor will the ESC take? I couldnt' find much information on it through losi's site.

roadrashracing2

How does moving the wing to different spots, change the setup?

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Just like in it's Big Brother of real sprint cars, what it enables you to do is change the "angle of attack" on the wing and the amount of downforce applied to the chassis in relation to the wheelbase. So, if you have it full forward and flat, you will have less downforce, faster on the straights, but located more centrally to the center of the chassis, "heavy"or tacky tracks. It also will let more of the weight transfer to the front of the car quicker when you get off the "gas".

Moving it back and increasing your angle moves the respective roll center and downforce to the rear of the car, effectively "tightening the rear end" and takes weight from the front end, which will, in most cases cause you to change your driving while coming off the corners as it will increase your understeer under hard acceleration.

I have a set up book around here somewhere, I will have to see if I can fiind it. If I find it before next weekend, I will try and make some copies for you and drop them off at Victory.

thisisagame24

hey guys. i just picked up the mini slider the other day and finally got a chance to mess with it. after a few times i noticed that im getting that brush hanging problem that some one mentioned before...whats a good way to fix that??

and also i noticed that the front right wheel has some play in it. and it looks liek the steering linkage is a little loose...did any one else have this problem?

nutz4rcyktw

iTrader: (67)

Check to make certain the shunt wires on the brushes are not strained against the brush hood. This will cause the brushes to hang up. I use needle nose pliers and place the shunt wires so the brushes can float properly.

Aluminum steering rack will help this. A better fix is to use standard size ball ends, turnbuckles, and ball studs. This might not be allowed at a track for racing. Our rules allow turnbuckles but not standard ball studs or cups.

steelhawke

iTrader: (5)

All losi mini's have steering slop. Best way is to go the aluminum steering rack and link no doubt. But another easy/cheap fix is using the standard ballends off the stock shocks. Cut back a threaded rod from a turnbuckle and use two old shock ballends. Since must people replace the shocks and turnbuckles on there mini-t's/etc anyway, the parts are leftovers you already have. Replace that cheap plastic center link with part you just made and you now have alot less steering slop. Then if you ad in a good set of turnbuckles the front will be almost mint.

claborn88

were can i get upgrades for the mini slider

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

For the brush "hangup" problem, I first tried all the tricks that have worked for my 10th scale motors for the last 18 years, and they helped, but it was still possible to have problems. Making sure the brush shunts cannot hang on the brush hoods is always a good tip, but I found out the hard way it may not "fix" the RX280 motors used in the Slider. The key problem is that the brushes seem to come with two very different shunts -- my first motor had rather small, thin shunts, and these were pretty flexible. For that first motor, just unbinding the shunts worked for several weeks. My second motor (I "smoked" the first one racing dirt oval) had brushes with thick, heavy shunts (as big or bigger than 10th scale motor shunts. With the thick shunts, the springs just are not strong enough, and even with the best of care, can hang up a brush just by the way the resist the springs. I no cut the brush shunts right at the eyelet -- this eliminates the potential current capacity they might carry, but it means the springs don't have to "fight" the shunts. Leaving most of the shunt still attached to the brush provides a "handle" to help when you remove the brushes and/or when you want to "snap" the brushes to make sure they are free in the hoods...

For the steering slop, I picked up a GPM steering setup (bellcranks, link, etc.) -- this totally eliminated the slop, but as noted above, this is actually a bit of overkill, as the problem is really just in the crosslink between the bellcranks. Even making a homebrew link from fiberglass or carbon fiber would work -- the best compromise would be to get the very nice link from GPM if it is available separately. (It uses a carbon fiber link, with tiny brass bushings to eliminate wear and/or slop...)

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

Good news! Except for some obvious items like the main chassis, almost all the Slider parts are shared with the Mini-t (A-arms, transmission, hubs, steering bellcranks, front "nose"/bulkhead, front/rear pivot blocks, etc., etc.)...

claborn88

THANK YOU Tfrahm. i ben tweaking on the mini slider. I cant get it to turn in the corner. but then i got it turning with it stock. tride different springs and tweaking the shocks but now it needs a biger motor. i notes that the mini pins tire is not the way to go